Recommendations for Replacing the Axle - Fiberglass RV
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Old 04-27-2022, 06:15 AM   #1
Senior Member
 
Name: Frank
Trailer: Scamp
MI
Posts: 132
Recommendations for Replacing the Axle

NOTE: This is a reply to my post here:https://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/...amp-98439.html

Quote:
Originally Posted by Eddie Longest View Post
I've played the bring home game many times with project trailers. It's a big relief when you get it parked in your driveway. One note on the tires and wheels. Your trailer has 13" tires with 4x4 lug pattern wheels. In all likelihood you will be replacing the axle. The most popular lug pattern hubs are 5x4.5, and most people go with 14" tires. An axle with 4x4 lugs has to be special ordered and there are very few choices in 4x4 wheels. I have run out and bought new 13" tires and wheels and found out I should have upgraded to 5x4.5 wheel for a new axle. Note: If you get Scamp to do your axle swap, they use 5x4.5 lug spindles. Eddie
I was thinking the same way. I noticed the old axle is welded on. I can cut it off and weld a new one on. I briefly reviewed the Dexter website.

What is the consensus on which axle to buy? I would like it to ride higher; should I have the axle horizontal or down (it is currently up)? How do I center it in the wheel well; just eyeball it? Are they videos or posts you could recommend?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Eddie Longest View Post
If I were as close to the Scamp factory as you, I would get them to do the axle swap. Make an appointment, show up and in about 2-3 hours you are back on the road with your new axle. Scamp could also change out your coupler.
Eddie
I am 13 hours away from the Scamp factory so I will have to do this locally.
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Old 04-27-2022, 07:24 AM   #2
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Name: You can't call me Al
Trailer: SOLD: 1977 Scamp 13'
Massachusetts
Posts: 824
I had my old leading-arm Dexter cut off and a proper trailing-arm Flexiride from Canadian Axle welded on.

I also had e 3" or (4"?) rectangular box welded on the bottom of the frame to make the trailer ride higher with 12-degree down Flexiride angle. They are adjustable so you can change the angle.

There were NO Dexters available for at least a year from Scamp or any other distributor in the USA I called, but Canadian Axle could make me a Flexiride in 10 days.

So now I've got a 5-bolt pattern hub and electric brakes and it's a brand-new (1977) Scamp 13' (I also had the coupler cut off and a 2" one welded on.)
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Old 04-27-2022, 08:00 AM   #3
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Name: Frank
Trailer: Scamp
MI
Posts: 132
Thanks for the info. I will have to look into Flexride.

To determine what size riser block I need, would you measure the block for me?

I have 1977 also; so this helps a lot.
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Old 04-27-2022, 11:09 AM   #4
Senior Member
 
Name: You can't call me Al
Trailer: SOLD: 1977 Scamp 13'
Massachusetts
Posts: 824
My riser is 3"

It does make the step up into the camper high, so we use a plastic step stool outside the door to make it easier to get in and out.

If I were to do it again, I would not add the riser. I don't need the extra 3" of camper height. (It doesn't increase the axle clearance.)

Since I have a Flexiride, I can try adjusting the arms to bring it down and I might actually try that someday.
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Old 04-27-2022, 01:40 PM   #5
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Name: Frank
Trailer: Scamp
MI
Posts: 132
Thank you.
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Old 05-02-2022, 07:39 PM   #6
Senior Member
 
Name: Frank
Trailer: Scamp
MI
Posts: 132
After reading a few posts on the forum, it seems that a Flexiride axle requires that riser block because it has to mount further up on the frame (under the dance floor) because it is a trailing arm.

It seems like it would be easier to just order the axle from Scamp. The prices are very close.
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Old 05-03-2022, 06:34 AM   #7
Senior Member
 
Name: You can't call me Al
Trailer: SOLD: 1977 Scamp 13'
Massachusetts
Posts: 824
Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank R View Post
After reading a few posts on the forum, it seems that a Flexiride axle requires that riser block because it has to mount further up on the frame (under the dance floor) because it is a trailing arm.
That's an important point!

Scamp axles are now trailing-arm, so it would be good to check with the factory if you have an old Scamp and want to use a new axle from Scamp to make SURE you get the one you need. Especially if you have electric brakes. They only work going one way.

I turned my leading-arm Dexter into a trailing-arm Flexiride and it tows beautifully. Although it towed just fine before, so for me it didn't make much change in towing. (Other than that I now have suspension and can put more than 20 PSI in the tires without initiating bouncing-ball-mode.)

If you want a lot of reading, here's a thread from ten years ago.

https://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/...ing-60297.html

I'm sure there are many more including mine. I went through the analysts-paralysis also when deciding.
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Old 05-04-2022, 11:59 AM   #8
Member
 
Name: Tom
Trailer: Amerigo
Wisconsin
Posts: 73
There is normally a pin directly under the axle coming thru the springs. On my trailer I had a drop axle I put a straight axle in and it just right height now.
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Old 05-04-2022, 12:03 PM   #9
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Name: Frank
Trailer: Scamp
MI
Posts: 132
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigangelman View Post
There is normally a pin directly under the axle coming thru the springs. On my trailer I had a drop axle I put a straight axle in and it just right height now.

Do you have leaf springs or a torsion bar axle?
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Old 05-04-2022, 01:24 PM   #10
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Trailer: 1979 Layton 22 ft / 2004 Ram-Cummins 2500 2wd
Posts: 180
Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank R View Post
Do you have leaf springs or a torsion bar axle?

I've only seen 'Drop Axle' referring to 'Leaf spring' and the reference to the 'Center bolt' makes me sure that's what he's referring to.
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Old 05-04-2022, 01:44 PM   #11
Senior Member
 
Name: Stephen
Trailer: Casita
Tennessee
Posts: 220
Thumbs up A lose the Axle Alternative

If you plan unimproved road operations, you might consider a suspension without the axle which can ground out on obstructions. Texas Customz is working on one.
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