Refrigeration leak

[Francesca Knowles]

Originally Posted by Sue and Henry

Carol, do you run the refrigerator on propane when you are travelling? Is it safe to do that? I have not and it might make a difference in the unit I use for replacement. I have never run it on propane, but have not really had a boondock trip yet. If its safe to use while in motion I guess I'd better fix it or replace with another 3 way unit.

I'm a dedicated boondocker who rarely camps with shorepower...I run my 3-way almost exclusively on propane, shutting it down only when gassing up or boarding ferries, where shutdown of all tanks is required. The only problem I've ever had in the 40,000 plus miles I've towed the trailer has been the occasional snuffing out of the flame by wind- and that's usually due to my own failure to close the flame windscreen.

Frankly, if I had to buy a new multi-way fridge, I wouldn't look/pay for the 12v function at all. That function is really only practical when underway since once the tow vehicle stops providing power an ordinary trailer battery will run dry in a matter of hours if being used to power the fridge.

And since I don't trust myself to remember to switch to propane every time I stop, I never use the 12v function!

Francesca

[Sue and Henry]

Sound sensible. I was afraid to use the propane while moving, and have been using the battery - but as you say, it is not satisfactory. Any ideas on propane/electric without the battery option?

[Francesca Knowles]

Originally Posted by Sue and Henry

Sound sensible. I was afraid to use the propane while moving, and have been using the battery - but as you say, it is not satisfactory. Any ideas on propane/electric without the battery option?

Hey!

I responded to a question you asked in another thread- looks like a Mod moved it over here...

To sort of enlarge on that response:

If I were faced with the failed fridge problem, I'd start by looking into the actual cost of replacing the cooling unit...not just to match the cutout size, but because I just can't stand to replace something that can be repaired- especially if it can be done for substantially less than the cost of a new unit.

There's also the advantage, at least in my case, that my present unit uses NO electric power when on propane, and many of the newer 3-ways require electricity even when running on propane. There's not a huge power draw, but there's some, and my no-frills camping style is to use/need as little power as possible.

That having been said...
I haven't looked into it, but I think it likely that a TRUE "2-way" (propane/110v) would be quite a bit cheaper than a three-way. Do take care not to get sidetracked onto so-called "2-ways" that are 12v/110v. Those are really just "all-electric" and in my opinion should be marketed that way.

Francesca

[Carol H]

Originally Posted by Sue and Henry

Carol, do you run the refrigerator on propane when you are travelling? Is it safe to do that?

Nope I dont. I would be to scared if someone hit me when traveling with it on. Have seen what happens when propane goes bang! Also suspect I would forget to shut it off when I went to fill up at a gas station.

I shut the fridge down when traveling and keep 3 freezer packs in the freezer section when the fridge is running and take them out and put them beside items that really need to be kept cold while traveling. Works fine. I have added extra insulation on the outside walls of my fridge to help it keep cool & I dont open it.

The need for a 3 way really has a lot to do with where you camp. In my case I do travel south a lot but I also live in the Pacific Northwest where I also camp. If I lived and only camped in the south with lots of sun I would be fine with getting a newer all DC type fridge that only pulls 3 amps or so as my solar panel would be able to keep up with that pull. The problem is in Pacific Northwest there is lots of tree coverage in most camping areas and often a lack of sun so the solar just will not keep up - the amount of solar needed to keep up under such conditions is more than my trailers roof could hold. Thus the reason I need & use the propane option a lot.

[Carol H]

Originally Posted by Francesca Knowles

many of the newer 3-ways require electricity even when running on propane.
Francesca

They do? Geezz which ones? The Norcold and Dometic specs I have been looking at dont indicate that.

[Francesca Knowles]

Originally Posted by Carol H

They do? Geezz which ones? The Norcold and Dometic specs I have been looking at dont indicate that.

The Norcold series covered by this instruction manual, for one example: https://www.dyersonline.com/lightspe...itfile_id/604/

Not that these particular units would fit this application...just a heads-up that SOME 3-way fridges still use some electricity when used on the "propane" setting.


Francesca

[Alf S.]

Originally Posted by Sue and Henry

Sound sensible. I was afraid to use the propane while moving, and have been using the battery - but as you say, it is not satisfactory. Any ideas on propane/electric without the battery option?

Hi: Sue and Henry... Here's a link to my local RV fridge tech. I know you can't send your fridge to them...but it proves they can be rebuilt. I'm sure you have someone on the "Left Coast" who could do it!!! http://www.gammonsrv.com
Alf S. North shore of Lake Erie

[Bob Miller]

"2 way" most often refers to LP & 120 VAC and, occasionally, LP & 12 VDC. The few 120 VAC/12 VDC boxes I have seen were compressor models.

Some newer refrigerators do require a small amount of DC to operate the control and ignition systems.

[Donna D.]

Here's another RV refrigerator rebuilder: RVCOOL.COM - Supplier of rebuilt cooling units for Norcold and Dometic RV Refrigerators.

[Thomas G.]

I found this quote from Donna's link above of interest:

The most common question I am asked by people that visit my website is "how difficult is it to change the cooling unit in my rv refrigerator" and "is this something I can do myself." Well, changing the cooling unit isn't as difficult as it might appear. There are no special tools required, no welding or solder connections to make, the cooling units simply bolt to the back of the refrigerator. Most people with average mechanical ability and a basic set of hand tools can change the cooling unit in there refrigerator in a few hours.

If you don't want to tackle the cooling unit swap, you may well find someone else that can take on the job outside of a specific RV refrigerator shop.

[David Tilston]

Originally Posted by Sue and Henry

I've been looking for replacements on line. There seems to be nothing with matching configurations.

The current broken one is a dometic 211

Sue and Henry,

I think you should look for a used replacement RM211. I currently have two spares. One is a hot swappable running unit, the other is my bone yard unit. I got them both for free. I sold another one recently to a member of this site for $100. Much less then the repair cost would be.
You see, tent trailers used the RM211 quite often. They are approaching the end of their life much quicker then the fibreglass trailers that we use. I see RM211's in kijiji very often. I would keep your broken unit for parts.

[Francesca Knowles]

Originally Posted by Thomas G.

If you don't want to tackle the cooling unit swap, you may well find someone else that can take on the job outside of a specific RV refrigerator shop.

That's an interesting angle...I wonder if, for example, a radiator repair shop could/would do it????

Francesca

[Thomas G.]

Originally Posted by Francesca Knowles

That's an interesting angle...I wonder if, for example, a radiator repair shop could/would do it????

Francesca

Yea, I was thinking of a small repair shop, like an appliance repair shop. Anyone with tools and a basic knowledge of gas appliances.

[Bob Miller]

To add to Daves suggestion: Slide in truck campers, pop-up tent trailers and many class"B" motorhomes also used the 211 refrigerator. I bought one out of a water damaged truck camper for $40 and it works perfect.

Search Craigs List for "RV Parts" in the body of the ad, you will be surprised at what you find.

[Sue and Henry]

Okay - once again exposing my limitations. I opened that back flap to start figuring out how to pull the unit and spotted RM360.



It is right there on the front panel too. I don't know why i thought it was a 211. There are both two way and three way replacement models that even match the one in place.

The up side is that I now know lots about the 211 replacement - and hope I never have to fix one. The down side is that I used up a lot of you wonderful people's time. Thank you all. I think I'm replacing it with a new 2 way. The cost looks about even with the repair bill.

[Carol H]

No worries Sue we all learned a few things through your post or at least I did. I now know that nothing has changed in 20 years in regards to DC power consumption on a 3 way. Who know! So no need to keep dreaming about getting a new one.

[Sue and Henry]

Originally Posted by Carol H

No worries Sue we all learned a few things through your post or at least I did. I now know that nothing has changed in 20 years in regards to DC power consumption on a 3 way. Who know! So no need to keep dreaming about getting a new one.

Thank you Carol. you are too kind. I did learn tons though and with all the suggestions on places to visit on-line, I think I can install it. Some sites did offer great video instructions.

[David Tilston]

Ummm....It looks like they are available in the used market too.

RV FRIGERATOR FOR SALE - Alberta Parts, Accessories For Sale - Kijiji Alberta Canada.

More then I would pay, but still less then any other option.

[Sue and Henry]

Originally Posted by David Tilston

Ummm....It looks like they are available in the used market too.

RV FRIGERATOR FOR SALE - Alberta Parts, Accessories For Sale - Kijiji Alberta Canada.

More then I would pay, but still less then any other option.

Looks like mine - that aluminum frame matches the cabinetry and I like the price a lot. The leak really did give me a scare though. That ammonia was so concentrated! I think I'll invest in new, even though I don't like the look as well.

[David Tilston]

It really was strange that your fridge leaked on the inside. Like I said, they usually leak at the heater section. For obvious reasons, heat, water, rust. You can see that the rust in that area is much worse then other places.
When they leak on the back, the ammonia vents to the outside.
As far a price goes, I have shopped around, $100 is a reasonable price, free is not uncommon. A new one will be more.