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01-11-2018, 09:02 AM
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#1
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Junior Member
Name: Stan
Trailer: 2015 Casita 17 SD
Arizona
Posts: 2
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refrigerator will not run on gas
I have a 2015 Casita SD 17 with a Dometic RM2454 refrigerator. the unit works with 12V and 120V but not gas. The burner starts up but with in a minute the igniter starts firing again the the unit shuts down. I have cleaned the gas jet and it looks very clean. The stove works great and tried and tested both tanks so I probably got good gas pressure.
thanks, Stan
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01-11-2018, 10:05 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Trailer: Trillium 2010
Posts: 5,128
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I would start with the obvious. Gas in the tank? Valve open? Next I would clean the burner, chimney, etc. Sounds like you've done that. I think this fridge has a control board which requires 12volts. I'd make sure those connections were good. . Next, I would test the thermal couple. That's all the easy stuff.
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01-13-2018, 09:02 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Name: Charles
Trailer: Scamp 16
Ohio
Posts: 295
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What model is it? Take a pic if you don't know
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01-13-2018, 09:14 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Name: Steve
Trailer: 2018, 21ft escape— 2019 Ram 1500 Laramie
NW Wisconsin
Posts: 4,500
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cmartin748
What model is it? Take a pic if you don't know
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Dometic model RM2454 as stated in line #1 of post #1.
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01-13-2018, 10:06 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Name: Charles
Trailer: Scamp 16
Ohio
Posts: 295
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Oh sorry.
Sounds like the burner needs a good cleaning. The sensor is not sensing the flame.
There are a lot of Utube videos on the subject.
http://rvrefrigeratorrepair.com/wp-c...350-RM2850.pdf
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01-13-2018, 01:21 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Name: Steve
Trailer: 2018, 21ft escape— 2019 Ram 1500 Laramie
NW Wisconsin
Posts: 4,500
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cmartin748
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OR the flame is just fine but the sensor is corroded or out of position or the connection is loose
When all else fails follow Raz
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01-13-2018, 07:09 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Name: Steve
Trailer: Scamp 13
California
Posts: 1,890
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Verify that you have proper propane flow. Torn off propane. Open propane valve at the bottle slowly. Now go to your stove top and light both burners and note if burners are burning properly and of proper heigth. Noting that you have good flow after several minutes. Turn off the burners. Now check your battery voltage. On some of the nerwe fridges battery voltage comes into play with their circuit boards. Make sure your voltages are over 12 volts. Check and make sure there is battery power actually getting to the fridge.
Any further than this and you will need someone who is really into fridge repairs to dig in deep to find the problem.
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01-13-2018, 07:26 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Name: Gordon
Trailer: 2015 Scamp (16 Std Layout 4) with '15 Toyota Sienna LE Tug
North Carolina
Posts: 5,155
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Quote:
Originally Posted by notnats
I have a 2015 Casita SD 17 with a Dometic RM2454 refrigerator. the unit works with 12V and 120V but not gas. ..
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Have the propane system checked by a professional (using manometer, etc..) and if no problems with the propane are found, check out http://www.fourwh.com/NewDometicRefrigeratorManual.pdf
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01-28-2018, 01:27 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Name: Michael
Trailer: Trail Cruiser
Alberta
Posts: 825
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it's either the thermocouple of circuit board. I've replaced both on my dometic.
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01-30-2018, 08:38 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 720
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cmartin748
Oh sorry.
Sounds like the burner needs a good cleaning. The sensor is not sensing the flame.
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He did that too, stated in the third line of his post..
Gordon's suggestion about having the pressure checked is my guess.
All the appliances in a Casita have secondary regulators in them and run on a lower pressure EXCEPT the refrigerator that is totally depend on correct pressure from the main regulator on the tanks
Joe
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01-30-2018, 10:05 AM
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#11
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Senior Member
Trailer: U-Haul VT16
Posts: 980
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Stan, check the exhaust opening for mud dobbers.
Bees like to nest in the chimney. Causing the exhaust to back up and starve the burner of oxygen.
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01-30-2018, 10:37 AM
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#12
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Senior Member
Name: Gordon
Trailer: 2015 Scamp (16 Std Layout 4) with '15 Toyota Sienna LE Tug
North Carolina
Posts: 5,155
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Romas
He did that too, stated in the third line of his post..
Gordon's suggestion about having the pressure checked is my guess.
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And thats pretty much all we can do on the forum is guess. Which is why I suggested the Diagnostic Service Manual. It lays out a logical step-by-step troubleshooting method that a technician would follow.
Quote:
Originally Posted by gordon2
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02-24-2018, 09:06 PM
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#13
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Member
Name: Greg
Trailer: 1977 17' Boler
Saskatchewan
Posts: 60
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Hey Stan,
I am not saying that I can fix your problem, but I too had a similar experience. So this may help. Not sure.
The pressure of gas the your appliances needs to run on is about 11 inches of water column or 0.397 psi. You will need a manometer to check this or have service tech to chech this out for ya. You can see for yourself if the prssure is steady. Turn on you propane stove top burder. If the flame is steady and not dancing or jumping around, then it is likely that is not the problem. Mine was dancing and jumping in height. New regulator I thought. Same thing. Borrowed a monometer and the pressure was way down even with the new regulator. Now what. I mentioned it to my dad, who used propane to heat and cook in the house when I was a boy. My dad said did you check the gas line for oild build up. What I said, propane has no oil in it. I was wrong. Disconneted all of the appliances. Disconnected the propnae line at the front of the trailer near the regulator. Drpped the hose down and sure enough, the black started to drip. What? Ok dad now what? Let what ever will drip out, drip. Capped that end of the hose and syringed rubbing alcohol down the lines of each appliance until all of the line was full. The capped each line at the aplliance end. Since I had work to go to, I left it sit like that for two days. Opend the lower hose and, then Iopened the furthest appliance end cap and blue clean commpressed air down. Sure glad my dad suggested tying a old rag over the other end of that hose. After I blew out the furthest appliance, I recapped it and went to the next one, and blew it out and so on. Wow what alot of black sticky crap came out. Iran a little more alcohol ( not moon shine) down each line and more air.
Time to check. My dad suggest getting a small brass tee fitting and a short straight brass pipe, I thing 1/4 inch diamter and about 2 inches long witha cap and place it inline and the lowest end of the line to catch any more of the black stuff.
Reconnected everything. Turned on the gas, and soap test. All was good. Mamonoter test time. Oh good 11 inches of water column. No more flame dancing on the stove top burners. Fridge ran great. I empty that little pipe at the start of every season.
Hope this helps
Greg Boler77
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02-24-2018, 09:52 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Name: bob
Trailer: 1996 Casita 17 Spirit Deluxe; 1946 Modernistic teardrop
New York
Posts: 5,390
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Greg's "T" fitting and short pipe is commonly called a "drip T", used on heating appliances to catch any debris in the line. Usually installed at the appliance.
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