removing 1979 Trillium rear window

[Island Claire]

HELP. I have found lots of info, but no pictures. I am needing to know if I have to remove the riveted strip below the window in order to remove it. The side window came our easily, but this one is not moving. The first picture shows the strip under the window, and the one under it the location of the shelf.

Also, how does one get in between the wood and the insulation when there is a shelf riveted in place in that area.

[Larry C Hanson]

Hi Claire,

When I removed the windows in my Trill to reseal I just had to
take out all the exterior screws. It was difficult to remove as the
ensolite on the inside interfered. I used a thin putty knife from
the inside running it along the edge of the frame to get the frame
past the ensolite. The window hole in the fiberglass shell is
"just" big enough to get the window through.

As to the riveted strip, my trailer does not have one there. It may
have been added over the years by a previous owner. If it does not
extend too high you may be able to get the window out. However,
if it gets in the way it may have to be removed.

Looking at the photo of the screws you removed they don't appear
to be too rusted so the wood that the window is screwed to may
be in good shape. Mine was quite discolored from moisture but
there was no delamination of the plywood. The screw holes were
a little sloppy so I used the old carpenter's trick of filling all the
holes by poking wooden kitchen match sticks (dipped in wood glue)
through the exterior holes in the fiberglass into the backing plywood.
After the glue set I cut off the sticks by running a razor knife between
the fiberglass and the backing plywood. This provided good holding
power for the new screws.

BTW, at the behest of a pal who is an "RV Guy" I used two layers
of butyl tape on the frame when re-installing the windows. This
provided plenty of squeeze out and a great seal. Also I heated the
tape up by putting it in the sun on the dashboard before using it.
I like to get the butyl tape warm enough so that it just starts sticking
to the paper tape on the roll. Also, make sure the window frame and
the fiberglass are VERY clean before installing.. I wipe it down with
denatured alcohol before installing and the put the butyl tape on the
window frame for installation.

Hope this helps?

Good luck on you project.

Larry H

[David Tilston]

The rivited strip should be removed before you pull the window, It is grabbing the bottom of the window. Then re-install after you put the window back in.

The shelves are best removed as well. They screw to the wood frame that you need to replace.

I was able to remove the bottom rivets, (Screws?) that hold the rear shelf to the side shelves, and the screws into the window frame, then push the shelf up above the wood frame. But, all I did was the back window. If you are doing all the windows, then pulling out the shelves completely makes sense, front and back.

When I do the complete windows, door, and belly band referb on Launch Pad this summer that is what I will do. At the same time I plan to replace the plywood that used to have an off white mac tack on it with white Lexan. This includes the doors on the shelves as well.

I might even mount flat panel LED's inside the shelves facing down. That way the lights are hidden till you turn them on.

[Island Claire]

I did undo the screws that hold the shelves to the wood, but could not move the shelves. I ended up cutting the elephant skin along the edge of the wood strip and then pulling both out together. Had a hard time removing the elephant skin unless it was wet. Unfortunately, all the corners were rotten so it had to come out. Have not done the front window yet as the leaks seem to have stopped.