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Old 02-05-2017, 11:32 AM   #21
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A bit of a "Rant" about glues:

There are some advantages to "the Old Ways". For centuries, woodworkers have used hide glue. Our theatre always had a glue pot going; the glue was used as a binder for paints, mixed with water as a size for the flats used to build scenery, and, even as glue.

To unglue something all you needed to do is heat it or use steam or even water. Sure, it was a pain since it eventually hardened to the point where the joint loosened, but it could be repaired. A piece of furniture assembled with hide glue can be completely disassembled for refinishing, repair, etc. If a "repair" to a piece of furniture is made with most of the modern glues such as Gorilla Glue, it better be perfect, because it won't be repairable.

All that said, our theatre shop probably hasn't seen a glue pot in 20 years, and I admit to carrying (and using) a bottle of Gorilla Glue. I never use it for anything that may need to be removed or repaired, but for permanent attachments, it is pretty good stuff!
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Old 02-05-2017, 11:45 AM   #22
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The above post is correct, but when I glue two things together I probably want them to stay together.
One of my favorite glues is steel applied with high heat, called welding.
The True Hot Glue
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Old 02-05-2017, 11:51 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redbarron55 View Post
The above post is correct, but when I glue two things together I probably want them to stay together.
One of my favorite glues is steel applied with high heat, called welding.
The True Hot Glue
Yea, but it sure makes a lot of smoke when you try it with wood or plastic!
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Old 02-05-2017, 12:29 PM   #24
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Why not ask the Glue Company? There are 2 types of Gorilla glue, which did you use?

https://www.google.com/webhp?sourcei...oval+from+wood


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Someone checked with the Gorilla Glue website, and the only solvent for this glue is acetone. Be careful using acetone as it will strip many clear furniture finishes. The website also said that it may be necessary to allow the acetone to soak into the glue for awhile to soften it. Good luck!
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Old 02-05-2017, 01:07 PM   #25
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I was under the impression hat the glue was off already? Ground down and gone? And now Tonnie has to paint the cabinets to fix the ugly area?


We like Rustoleum Marine enamles, with corresponding marine primer. We use a foam "hot dog" roller and just roll the heck out of it until all the bubbles are broken and the paint self-levels. Though I'd take cabinet doors off first and paint them "flat." You can readily mix colors to get exactly what you're after. I'd sand like mad first, and get a good primer coat down (not too thick!) and sand after priming, too. Then two coats of paint, sanding between with increasingly fine sandpaper.


I hear if you use 1000 grit wet sand after your final paint layer you can get a really glossy effect.


Here's an examle of how we did our cabinets--Paul "basketwove" painted them, white enamel over flat gray base (actually gray primer). They hide EVERYTHING...I believe they'd hide moral defects! And they're not too dark, and it wasn't hard.


Sponge-painting also gives an interesting effect if you don't want "plain" -- though plain can be extremely nice as well. Sanding and priming are key, in our humble opinions.
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Old 02-09-2017, 10:14 PM   #26
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Try using glide dental floss to saw the unicorn off. Once the unicorn is off the you can clean up the glue Schmutz
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Old 02-10-2017, 12:32 PM   #27
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I am a redneck , so I would take off as much glue as possible with a razor blade and GOO GONE and then cover the spot with pictures of my grand-kids or my dogs.
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Old 02-10-2017, 04:13 PM   #28
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Here is what the makers of Gorilla glue have to say about removing their original formula. It sounds like what they say to do is exactly what you did . Obviously it is a waste of time to try chemical removal or they would have told you to do so.

"Cured glue can be removed with a chisel, scraper or sandpaper".
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Old 02-10-2017, 04:21 PM   #29
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I have found Goo Gone pretty much useless.
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Old 02-11-2017, 06:32 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by k corbin View Post
Here is what the makers of Gorilla glue have to say about removing their original formula. It sounds like what they say to do is exactly what you did . Obviously it is a waste of time to try chemical removal or they would have told you to do so.

"Cured glue can be removed with a chisel, scraper or sandpaper".


Exactly. And that is way hard on the surface of whatever it was glued to! Tonnie's doing the best that can be done with this goosey mess!

Now the issue isn't removal of the glue, but making the cabinets look good again. Seems we need less glue advice now, and more paint advice.



That was sensible...thanks for checking with the manufacturer.

When in doubt, read the directions!
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Old 02-11-2017, 08:02 AM   #31
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Exactly. And that is way hard on the surface of whatever it was glued to!
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It certainly is way hard on the surface if you go into "attack mode" instead of approaching it with a sensitivity while striving to use good hand control with a delicate touch of the tools. It does require that quality known as having patience with a task. But people mostly expect instant gratification so that expectation quite often leads to making a mess of things.

For something such as spot sanding in a small area on a convex or concave surface or even on a flat surface a little piece of sandpaper held to the outside of a metal spoon's bowl with some double back sticky tape will allow you to control exactly where you sand while at the same time allowing for better control of the amount of pressure that is applied.
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Old 02-11-2017, 10:21 AM   #32
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C 4. Thats the answer.
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Old 02-11-2017, 12:43 PM   #33
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Get a spot of gorilla glue on your fingers and it will stay with you for about three weeks.
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Old 02-11-2017, 01:22 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bruce H View Post
Get a spot of gorilla glue on your fingers and it will stay with you for about three weeks.

Wow, that's "better" than superglue!

(Had you heard superglue was originally designed for instant battleground wound fixes? No kidding...but it turned out to be too toxic. So I've heard. Wonder how toxic gorilla glue would be? Fairly toxic would be my guess. But sounds like it'd hold you together a while!)

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Old 02-11-2017, 02:51 PM   #35
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There are 2 typs of Gorella glue. One being just like the white wood glue then the brown glue in the small bottle that works with moisture where you wet one side B 4 clamping and that is the one that does not come apart. It must be clamped because it expands whild curing.
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Old 02-11-2017, 03:07 PM   #36
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After filling holes with an epoxy paste, I sanded and painted with Krylon gloss white. It's a close match to the gel coat on my Trillium. Can you see the repair? Sure, if you know where to look. I doubt anyone else will notice and if they do......
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Old 02-11-2017, 06:46 PM   #37
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The C-4 "might" be a little over kill, but it will remove the glue, cabinet, and camper.
Perhaps a little extreme but ya gotta do what ya gotta do.
Which aisle is the C-4 on in Lowe's?
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Old 02-11-2017, 07:40 PM   #38
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Sapper Training

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Originally Posted by redbarron55 View Post
The C-4 "might" be a little over kill, but it will remove the glue, cabinet, and camper.
Perhaps a little extreme but ya gotta do what ya gotta do.
Which aisle is the C-4 on in Lowe's?
Just go see the Army Recruiter and sign up to be a sapper. They will send you to Lost In The Woods Missouri and you will get to know C 4 intimately.
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Old 02-11-2017, 07:54 PM   #39
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Just go see the Army Recruiter and sign up to be a sapper. They will send you to Lost In The Woods Missouri and you will get to know C 4 intimately.
It gives me a headache
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