I decided to jump in and give it a try. I had the number of someone to call who had experience with macerating toilets if I need a contractor.
I cut the caulk with a razor knife. The purpose of the caulk is to keep the shower water from getting under the toilet, so just a bathroom caulk is probably good enough.
To loosen the 2 screws, I used a small ratcheting screw driver. You might be able to do it with a short Philips head screw driver, but a small ratcheting screw driver worked well.
I twisted the toilet back and forth and found some more caulk that needed to be cut. Then I was able to slide the toilet out a few inches. There is limited access unless you disconnect everything. Fortunately, the fresh water connection is fairly easy to access without having to disconnect everything.
I turned on the water pump and checked to see if the fresh water intake was leaking. It was. I bought a new hose, installed it, turned the water pump on, and the leak seems to be fixed.
One problem. The poop tube connects to the toilet and goes down through the wood subfloor and then all the way over to a t connector where the shower drain connects. When Parkliner
installed it, they connected it to the toilet first, tie wrapped it tightly to the underside of the trailer, and then connected to the T connector. The result is when the toilet is moved, the poop tube, in my case, pulled off the toilet. The other possibility is you won't be able to move the toilet because the poop tube holds it in place.
I had to disconnect the tube at the t connector, cut all the tie wraps, pull a couple of inches of slack so I could reconnect it to the toilet.
The toilet was fairly easy to line up and the screws went in with no problem.
A couple drops of water have leaked out since I did the repair. I think this is leftover water, but I will monitor it today and caulk tomorrow if no more leaks