Replacing A Fiber Stream window - Fiberglass RV


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Old 06-18-2020, 05:17 PM   #1
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Replacing A Fiber Stream window

Hi! It has been a while since I was on this site, but now I need help. We have a 1982 Fiber Stream. Took a rock hit in the front Driver's side window at some point, and during a heatwave a few weeks ago, the pane exploded, sending tempered glass pieces everywhere. It was the fixed pane that broke, not the slider. I contacted a local glass shop, and they quoted $150-$200CDN for the work, if I bring in the whole unit. I did check on buying a complete new unit, and it was priced at about $700CDN deliver here, so I am fixing it.


I've removed the window successfully, along with the rain gutter above it, but it was quite a job. Rather than the expected RV window putty that I have worked with before (and have on hand), it appears that both the window and the rain gutter were installed with some sort of silicone-like clear caulk, maybe Mono brand. It never leaked, but it is really difficult to remove it, and I will succeed. My questions are:


1. What was used to "factory-install" Fiber Stream windows. Do I have after-market work here?


2. What have you used when re-installing windows with a 1/8" fiberglass wall covered with a 1/8" interior wall panel?


3. What should I use?


Thanks in advance;


Vic
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Old 06-18-2020, 06:58 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by Victor Benz View Post
Hi! It has been a while since I was on this site, but now I need help. We have a 1982 Fiber Stream. Took a rock hit in the front Driver's side window at some point, and during a heatwave a few weeks ago, the pane exploded, sending tempered glass pieces everywhere. It was the fixed pane that broke, not the slider. I contacted a local glass shop, and they quoted $150-$200CDN for the work, if I bring in the whole unit. I did check on buying a complete new unit, and it was priced at about $700CDN deliver here, so I am fixing it.


I've removed the window successfully, along with the rain gutter above it, but it was quite a job. Rather than the expected RV window putty that I have worked with before (and have on hand), it appears that both the window and the rain gutter were installed with some sort of silicone-like clear caulk, maybe Mono brand. It never leaked, but it is really difficult to remove it, and I will succeed. My questions are:


1. What was used to "factory-install" Fiber Stream windows. Do I have after-market work here?


2. What have you used when re-installing windows with a 1/8" fiberglass wall covered with a 1/8" interior wall panel?


3. What should I use?


Thanks in advance;


Vic
Hey Victor!
I don't know or really care what was used as long as you can get it off well enough to reseal and I will only use Butyl Rubber now.

You can get the Butyl in really thin strips so that it does not squeeze out all over the place when tightening the window back in and I don't know of anything else that stays pliable any longer than Butyl.

On mine the outside wall has 1"x2"s horizontal behind Paneling on the inside I think but whatever you need to make for a ring to make sure you get decent purchase is within your skill set I know too.

I just hope you can get the old stuff off whatever it was!
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Old 06-18-2020, 07:16 PM   #3
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Details, details, details

Quote:
Originally Posted by Victor Benz View Post
Rather than the expected RV window putty that I have worked with before (and have on hand), it appears that both the window and the rain gutter were installed with some sort of silicone-like clear caulk, maybe Mono brand. It never leaked, but it is really difficult to remove it, and I will succeed. My questions are:

1. What was used to "factory-install" Fiber Stream windows. Do I have after-market work here? My Fiber Stream windows have a 3/4" perimeter flange on the exterior window and an interior trim ring that clamps the window from the inside with perimeter screws. RV window putty was used on the interior surface of the exterior flange. The perimeter screws around the interior trim ring and putty were all the factory used. Your caulk is clearly (pun alert!) amateur after-market "repair" from a guy whose universe is confined to Home Depot alone.


2. What have you used when re-installing windows with a 1/8" fiberglass wall covered with a 1/8" interior wall panel? I only have paint on the Fiber Stream's interior fiberglass. I have used traditional RV putty tape (light tan roll on crinkly paper) but recently insist on the Butyl Tape (smooth gray roll on wax paper) pressed onto the backside of the exterior flange before setting the window into the opening. Then tighten the perimeter screws on the interior clamp ring.


3. What should I use? Long term future personal use: Butyl Tape. period. I recently discovered that my constantly leaking side window on "Boomerang, the Bed-Womb" was due to ignored rough edge on the cut-out hole. The fiberglass needed to be trimmed, patched & sanded smooth, then a thin coat of resin applied and set before reinstalling the window unit.
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Old 06-18-2020, 07:22 PM   #4
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I am recently experimenting with spraying a clear-coat sealer paint over the window frame that overlaps onto the fiberglass slightly in the same manner that wood window frame paint overlaps slightly onto the glass to provide extra sealing.
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Old 06-28-2020, 08:27 PM   #5
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Fiber Stream Window Repair

[QUOTE=Frederick L. Simson;782304]1. What was used to "factory-install" Fiber Stream windows. Do I have after-market work here? My Fiber Stream windows have a 3/4" perimeter flange on the exterior window and an interior trim ring that clamps the window from the inside with perimeter screws. RV window putty was used on the interior surface of the exterior flange. The perimeter screws around the interior trim ring and putty were all the factory used. Your caulk is clearly (pun alert!) amateur after-market "repair" from a guy whose universe is confined to Home Depot alone.

I agree completely. Although others may try permanent sealants such as silly cone, the butyl tape is the only way to go, and is similar to original. A word of caution. The openings for my windows weren't cut well, and I had only about 1/8" overlap of the window flange to fiberglass on two windows. I ended up glassing the opening to the correct size. You need to place the window loosely first, making perimeter marks on masking tape to show where the window needs to set when you clamp in place. No sealant on the inside of the window. Removing and resealing these windows should be an every 15 year maintenance task.

If you need the plastic weeps for the windows, there is a 3d printer file floating around if you can get someone to print them for you. I can help with this.

Best of luck, and glad to see you are still on the road.
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