Replacing LED clearance lights

[Borrego Dave]

OK folks, I've spent to long trying to find a thread for info with no results so I'm throwing in the towel . I need to change out the side marker lights and I bought LEDS. I understand the polarity of them but the wiring design of them is a lot different than the original bases of my '06 Casita. The original light bases had the wires wrapped around a metal base on both ends that the rivets went through, easy peasy. The new ones have a metal ring around one rivet hole with a white wire, neg lead and black + wire off the LED board going through the base just to the side and under the neg about 3/8ths " to one side so it doesn't use the other rivet hole as the original did for a connection. Not sure if this is a standard design or not. I can see how easily the originals were to wire up but how are these LEDs connected and riveted from the outside only? I can get at three of them from the inside if I have to but the one behind the shower............
Any pics would really be great

[John in Michigan]

After looking at a wiring diagram posted at the CasitaClub forum, it appears that Casita wire colors are the same as Boler and Trillium, i.e., white is common (negative) and green is marker/running/license lights (positive). So to wire your new LED fixtures, splice the LED fixture wires as follows:

- white (fixture) to white (trailer)
- black (fixture) to green (trailer)

[pete_britt]

There may be a problem here. The trailers neutral (white wire in 120 V AC) is not grounded to the trailer frame. So be sure that the white wire you connect to is actually a DC ground. Use an Ohm meter to confrm.

[Borrego Dave]

Thanks for the comments guys. I may not have made it clear what I was looking for though. Forgetting the wire colors, it's the difference in the way the wires are connected from the factory lights and connecting the new LEDs that don't have the same connections through the rivet holes like the originals. I know a number of members have changed out their marker lights and have probably run into this also. Just wondering how they got around the different connections. Wish I could post a pic of mine....camera's dead .

[John in Michigan]

Dave, I'm not sure what you mean. Is it safe to assume:

1. In each of the old fixtures, two wires are attached.
2. The new LED fixtures are pre-wired with two wires coming out, a black wire and a white wire.

If the above assumptions are true, then you have to cut the old wires and splice them to the new wires. This is a common situation.

- John

[John in Michigan]

So to summarize from my above post, with new pre-wired LED fixtures, generally you must cut the old wires and splice the new wires to them. (EDIT: In pre-wired sealed LED fixtures, the mounting screws/rivets/grommets are usually NOT electrical terminals.)

There are many types of splice connectors and methods available, and lots of threads debating the pros and cons to each splicing method. I prefer using crimp connectors, but other prefer soldering the wires, etc, etc.

[mary and bob]

I had to replace the right rear marker light on our Casita. As I recall the ground wire was under one of the rivets. The problem I had was the wiring inside was glued under the carpet and I couldn't pull it out for ease of making my connections. I use crimp connectors that have heat shrink on them and solder in the center.

[Borrego Dave]

Originally Posted by mary and bob

I had to replace the right rear marker light on our Casita. As I recall the ground wire was under one of the rivets. The problem I had was the wiring inside was glued under the carpet and I couldn't pull it out for ease of making my connections. I use crimp connectors that have heat shrink on them and solder in the center.

That's kind of funny Bob, I'm doing the rt rear also. Because of another project I have the dinette bench out (over the water tank) and you are correct, the wires are glued under the carpet. I cut the carpet as far as I could but even with that couldn't pull up any slack. Anyway, I have an idea I'm working on and will try to get it on today. If it works out I'll see about posting a few pics. The + connection is the fly in the soup.

[Borrego Dave]

Well I came up with a working solution after a bit of head scratching. I took a few pics and I'll start a new thread so it may be easier for someone to find and use it if they want to.