Replacing the large front and back windows

[Mitten Mitsie]

Ok guys. I've decided it's time to replace the front and rear plexiglass windows in Mitsie! Well, to be more exact, the seals. They are 50 years old, dry and cracking and I'm pretty sure that's where the majority of my leaking is coming from. I've watched the you tube videos. I bought a waterproof cover to keep the rain out when I take the windows out. But I'm kind of at a loss for where to get the seals. Mitsie is a pretty rare trailer (1972 Trail Mite) that was made in Canada for about two years (from what I can tell). Rumor has it she most closely resembles a Casita. I am terrified that I'll take the windows out and not be able to find a replacement seal. Can anyone point me in a good direction? Anyone have any tried and true tips for removing or installing? I'd also like to replace the plexiglass because it's pretty scratched and has spray paint splatter all over them. The plexiglass is curved in all 4 directions. Do I just put in a sheet the same thickness and it'll just curve on its own? What kind of business would be good for buying the proper plexiglass? Thank you for your help. This place is a great resource.

[mary and bob]

I think what you need for the window seal, the rubber that holds the plexiglass in, is called self sealing weatherstrip. It is what I used on our Uhaul camper side windows. It is available for different wall and glass thicknesses. It is made by CR Laurence, but I can't find it on their website. I did find it on DK Hardware website. Just as an example I used AS1456, but you'll need to figure out which works for you. If you get the two piece version you'll have to also get the lock strip and the tool to install it. I bought the Lisle tool #47000. The single piece weatherstrip has a fold in lockstep. This is not a one person job, and not easy at all. Last window install we did there were 3 of us and it was still a struggle, and they were small windows.

[mosquito13]

Call around and find a custom glass installer. Lot harder to do then you think. Maybe pay for one install and be present for a better understanding of the complexity of the skills needed.

[Brent W.]

Steele Rubber Products in Denver, NC. They supply seals for many auto’s and for the RV industry. They have a catalog where you can match the profile of you seal or you can probably send a sample of yours once you remove it.

[Out4Fun]

I recently replaced my front window and tried to do it myself. After many days, we were able to get the window in, but it was installed with the lock strip inside and I found that could result in leaking. I drove from Portland, Oregon to Snohomish, Washington, where a glass installer accomplished the task for me in two hours.

I got the gasket and lock strip from Scamp. Call for a better shipping cost than online. I got tinted plexiglass (they also have clear) from my local TAP plastic shop. I took in the old window for an exact fit. It is flat but assumes the curves upon installation; that’s part of what makes it so challenging.

I watched a lot of YouTube videos and read forum tips. A warm day helps a lot, lots of lube (soapy water), the gasket tool and other thin, flat, blunt tools. Don’t cut the gasket until the very end. As it ages it shrinks so you don’t want to start with a large gap where the ends meet.
After trying it myself, it was easy to fork over the $200 to someone else and be confident it was done right and was water tight.

From Scamp:
Replacing the Plexiglass Window
Items Needed:
New Plexi glass Window
Beading and Lock Strip
Mallet
Pry Tool
Gile or Sealant
Fabric Scissors or Shears
Soapy water or silicone spray

When replacing the windows the rubber molding is first placed around the opening, you can start on the bottom middle and start working the molding over the fiberolass lip.

As vou progress, use a rubber mallet to pound the seal onto the body making sure it is fully seated. Work the molding around the corners, again using the rubber mallet to make sure it is fully
seated. THIS IS CRITICAL!!!

Continue working your way around, alternating side to side. When you reach the bottom, trim one end so it will be in the middle of the opening and seat that side. Take the final side, mark the end so you have the 3/4" overlap, glue the two ends together (or use sealant) then seat the final section.

Finally go around the molding one more time with the mallet makino sure it is fully seated, then you are ready to start the window install. The best tool to cut the molding is a
sturdy pair of fabric scissors or garden pruning shears.

Mix up a soapy water solution and generously apply around the molding and window edges. Place the window in the lower groove then slowly work the molding lip over the edge of the window. Be careful not to scratch the acrylic.

Continue pressing the window into the molding while at the same time gently prying the molding over the glass. Also, continue to apply more soapy water, you can use a spray bottle applying every minute or so. The job is not hard but it can be frustrating at times as the window may want to pop out at times, an extra set of hands is usetul. the final little section the window will "pop" into place.

Now the lock strip needs to be installed. Continue to use lots of soapy water and work the seal into place, special tools are available to install the locks. Again work your way around the window, gently spreading the molding, pushing on the lock until it slowly snaps into position all the way around.

YouTube links to get you started:
https://youtu.be/oNA-5oYG2sA?si=PLOGKQVcJu9RaI92
https://youtu.be/FSq_RqTqtsg?si=gUTvMcIrCKc5Ym6d
https://youtu.be/yn6cuVMNOKY?si=ANHQhjx9vAH5qeKh
https://youtu.be/yn6cuVMNOKY?si=ANHQhjx9vAH5qeKh
https://youtu.be/QvcJ_lU_VpQ?si=ac1aNLdgBJn9mkXc

[Stephen_Albers]

Before you waste time and money, I urge you to think about your goals for a window seal repair. If your trailer is uncomfortable with OAT changes of +40 F which is common with a frontal passage, it is most likely NOT the seals but the windows themselves that are the culprit. I discovered the huge thermal leakage of the windows and floor of my Casita when I did an energy audit.

In short, single pane windows are terrible heat sinks. Cold flows right through them. The total solution is to replace the windows with triple thermapane windows. They are used on oil rigs in the arctic and Arabian desert. My goal is for an all-season Casita, maintaining 70F inside over an OAT range of +120F to -20F. While I have not completed testing, I have done +112F to -2F with excellent results - the inside pane is the same temperature as the interior with NO condensation. Expensive and worth it to avoid suffering during temperature extremes.

[Jon in AZ]

LOL... I can't speak for the OP, but the goal for my window seals is very simple: keep the water out.

Thermal efficiency is a low priority. We generally choose travel destinations and times to take advantage of temperate weather because our goal is to be outside as much as possible. We've never used air conditioning and heat only occasionally. It doesn't take much of either in a 10' cabin, inefficiencies notwithstanding.

[Stephen_Albers]

You've examined your priorities and can make an appropriate decision. Keeping water out is a very laudable goal both to avoid water damage and vermin ingress which is a nightmare to deal with after the fact.

[Frank R]

I replaced my front and rear windows on my Scamp last summer. Quite the struggle.

I ended up trimming the plexiglass about 1/16 of an inch on the length and width. This made all the difference and it was pretty straightforward after that.

Here is my post about the experience:
https://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/...lp-101202.html

BTW: Standing on the tongue made it easier. If you can stand on a platform in the rear that would be very helpful. I stood on a step ladder but a platform of some kind would have been better.

[mosquito13]

Never did it on plastic , but got a 3M foil tint on a front windows of one of my rentals. Can't see in during daylight, looking out is a medium tint. In evening if lights on can see in. Made a huge difference on day time solar heating of the rooms.

[ShelbyM]

Originally Posted by Stephen_Albers

In short, single pane windows are terrible heat sinks. Cold flows right through them. The total solution is to replace the windows with triple thermapane windows.

It would be great if you'd post the occasional thread about your upgrades. Even if most of us will never make the commitment it would be interesting to see what can be done.

[Mitten Mitsie]

Originally Posted by Stephen_Albers

Before you waste time and money, I urge you...The total solution is to replace the windows with triple thermapane windows.

I sure would like a link to what window you used. Might be worth the extra money in prefer to camp longer.

[Mitten Mitsie]

Originally Posted by Out4Fun

I recently replaced my front window and tried to do it myself..

This was such a great reply!! Thank you so much for all of the effort!! I feel pretty confident I can do this with some help. But I'll try to find a guy to install, if it isn't much more money. It does sound extremely frustrating.

[Mitten Mitsie]

Originally Posted by Frank R

I stood on a step ladder but a platform of some kind would have been better.

I do have a platform!!! I'm pretty short, so that will come in handy. I'll go check out your post. Thanks for the tips!!

[Jenius]

Hey Mitten, any updates? Going to tackle this same project in the next week or so and wondering if you had any success, sage advice, or cautionary tales to share. Also wondering which method you opted for, there are four videos in this thread and they all suggest a different method of install.