Residue removal in a rebuild

[EricAllyn]

Looking for ideas for removal of the residue that is left when everything is taken out of the inside. Some of the pieces I was able to do with a power washer, so I tried the "goo b gone" and some I sanded -- that gummed up the sand paper so fast, I don't think that will be workable on the large inside. The power washer worked well on the flat pieces, outside in the open, but not sure how well that would work in the enclosed space. I will have the floor removed and there are plenty of drain holes, but just wondering if anyone had ideas. Is it okay to leave it and glue over it, does that create problems later? I will be doing some sections with clean and sand so that I can epoxy support for the roof, but the sections where I will glue a carpet back up, does it need to also be completely clean? Thanks for the help!

[Borrego Dave]

Eric, there are a number of posts from folks doing that same thing. A search will turn some up for you but I think most use a wire wheel to clean off the glue residue. I'd use a cup wheel as the wires that WILL fly off are more likely to go away from you and do wear safety gear. Have to say you're the first one I've heard of power washer.

[k corbin]

I was able to take off the residue with some coarse #60 sandpaper. Hand sanding is better than power sanding. The reason for that is heat from a fast spinning sander softens the glue and that is what makes it gum up the sand paper...which is exactly what happened to you.

I bought some of the circular random orbital sand paper disc in 60 grit. The disc are nice and strong which is why I used them instead of sheets of sandpaper. Just fold in half and they are easy to grip with your hands. Put on some tunes and do the zen time thing, it is a boring, dirty job and you need that music to help make it more pleasant.

I did a section of the ceiling each evening before I quit for the day. That way I was ready for an immediate cool shower afterwards to get the fibers from the shell off of me. I had to break the job up into sections because my neck and shoulders get painful from long overhead work sessions.

I know it is very tempting to power tool through this task but hand sanding with coarse paper really does work the best. It is easier than you think

[EricAllyn]

Thanks, I knew in my heart that it was really a matter of a lot of dirty work, but hoping for a "magic bullet"

[J Ron]

There are multiple types of products that you use with a drill 110v or bat . pwr. They will remove glue left after removing striping on a car and not damage the paint.

[Tom 72]

If you are going to involve water, my suggestion would be to use warm or hot water. Connect to a faucet or to the hot water heater.

[EricAllyn]

After trying several things, sandpaper didn't work -- it was like trying to sand "silly putty." There was a lot of soft sticky stuff, and finally got out the power washer (3400 psi) and a 15 degree nozzle, and worked about 3-4 inches away and it peeled off pretty well -- of course I was wet in seconds, but I was amazed at how well the stuff came off. Don't think I would have done this is I wasn't replacing the whole floor anyway. And as long as I was hitting it, I did the floor and marked where the last several bolts were. Looks like I will need about a day to finish. Only worked a couple of hours today before the gas ran out.