Retrofitting 110 Refridgerator

[Governor Bud]

Moderator's note: Two threads on same topic have been merged.

[Governor Bud]

I just bought 1980 Trillium 1300 in great shape overall. The previous owner had issues with the original Dometic fridge and he took it out, replacing with a drawer for pots and pans. I would like to install a compact 110 Fridge which I see from Amazon run 80 to a few hundred dollars. (A new dometic is way too much $$$ and have not had luck finding a used one.) My question has to do with necessary venting of the fridge. The use would be for campgrounds with shore power (110) no need for cost of three way or two way. I use an expedition design cooler as well for 3-4 food storage. Any experience? From the measurements Ive done there are many 110 choices in the 1.7 cubic foot size. Other question is wiring into the camper circuit. I would think to tap in or better yet run a new line to the inverter. Someone must have been through this before. I can email photos of present setup as there is no way to include them here. Thanks, Jeff

[Jon in AZ]

You don’t have an inverter. 110V power comes directly from the shore power distribution panel. I don’t know how many circuits there are, but there should be one that previously supplied 110V power to the 3-way fridge. The previous owners may have removed the wire when they removed the fridge, but the breaker is probably still there. Yes, you can run a new wire, but...

An older trailer might have just one 15A circuit, which is plenty to run a small fridge. However, depending on what you’ve got (15A or 30A) and what else you’re planning to run in terms of AC appliances, you might need to upgrade your power system. Are you planning to run A/C, microwave, coffee maker, electric space heater...?

Note: you may be confusing an inverter (12V to 110V) with a converter (110V to 12V). Most small trailers have a converter but very few have an inverter. The converter receives 110V power from the shore power distribution panel and uses it to power 12V circuits and charge the battery. The converter is not involved in direct operation of AC circuits or appliances.

[Len S]

Originally Posted by Governor Bud

I just bought 1980 Trillium 1300 in great shape overall. The previous owner had issues with the original Dometic fridge and he took it out, replacing with a drawer for pots and pans. I would like to install a compact 110 Fridge which I see from Amazon run 80 to a few hundred dollars. (A new dometic is way too much $$$ and have not had luck finding a used one.) My question has to do with necessary venting of the fridge. The use would be for campgrounds with shore power (110) no need for cost of three way or two way. I use an expedition design cooler as well for 3-4 food storage. Any experience? From the measurements Ive done there are many 110 choices in the 1.7 cubic foot size. Other question is wiring into the camper circuit. I would think to tap in or better yet run a new line to the inverter. Someone must have been through this before. Thanks, Jeff

If you plan on running the 110v fridge on 110v ac plug in I would keep it simple and just run a long heavy gauge extension cord as the Dometic 110v only drew 2.5-3 amps of power ( about 330 watts) Your inexpensive
110v ac fridge draws probably triple that on startup as it runs on a totally different concept so I would not try and wire it into the original wiring. Just use an extension cord to your 110vac outlet. Once on the road and in most campgrounds that does not have AC power plug in ;you are hooped. That means s-it out of luck ! don't plan on using an inverter as most do not supply full voltage but only clipped voltage and you will be looking at large capacity batteries, solar panels , a very expensive inverter and a whole lot of headaches. You will then wish you have gone with the "expensive " Dometic propane version which in the end would have been cheaper.
If dollars are important then maybe stick with a good quality ice box.

[Governor Bud]

You don’t have an inverter.



I DO HAVE AN WFCO CONVERTER ITS UNDER THE HEATER


110V power comes directly from the shore power distribution panel. I don’t know how many circuits there are, but there should be one that previously supplied 110V power to the 3-way fridge. The previous owners may have removed the wire when they removed the fridge, but the breaker is probably still there. Yes, you can run a new wire, but...

An older trailer might have just one 15A circuit, which is plenty to run a small fridge.



CONVERTER HAS a 20 amp and a 15 amp circuit


However, depending on what you’ve got (15A or 30A) and what else you’re planning to run in terms of AC appliances, you might need to upgrade your power system. Are you planning to run A/C, microwave, coffee maker, electric space heater...?


I WILL BE RUNNING A COMPACT REFER/FREEZER, ELECTRIC SPACE HEATER.


PLUGGED INTO 110 AT HOME, I AM RUNNING VIA THE OUTLETS, 110 FANS and a Vacuum Cleaner. This means a Converter.






Note: you may be confusing an inverter (12V to 110V) with a converter (110V to 12V). Most small trailers have a converter but very few have an inverter. The converter receives 110V power from the shore power distribution panel and uses it to power 12V circuits and charge the battery. The converter is not involved in direct operation of AC circuits or appliances.

[Governor Bud]

Thank you Len,


When in campgrounds with full hookups I do plan to use the ext cord.
While dry camping last week I own two DEEP EXPEDITON TYPE COOLERS, both kept food frozen for three days using block ICE. They are available from Walmart.


f you plan on running the 110v fridge on 110v ac plug in I would keep it simple and just run a long heavy gauge extension cord as the Dometic 110v only drew 2.5-3 amps of power ( about 330 watts) Your inexpensive
110v ac fridge draws probably triple that on startup as it runs on a totally different concept so I would not try and wire it into the original wiring. Just use an extension cord to your 110vac outlet. Once on the road and in most campgrounds that does not have AC power plug in ;you are hooped. That means s-it out of luck ! don't plan on using an inverter as most do not supply full voltage but only clipped voltage and you will be looking at large capacity batteries, solar panels , a very expensive inverter and a whole lot of headaches. You will then wish you have gone with the "expensive " Dometic propane version which in the end would have been cheaper.
If dollars are important then maybe stick with a good quality ice box.



And with the dometic at $750 plus vs $59 for the compact fridge, thats a helluva lot of ice for the next five years. In the meantime If I find a used Dometic, working at a reasonable price, I will use the compact fridge in the office.

[Raspy]

Jeff,

After re-reading your post, I still cannot figure out if you mean an absorption fridge running on shore power (120 volts) or if you mean a compressor fridge running on shore power.

The only venting required for a compressor fridge is to get rid of the box heat, the propane fridge requires better and more complicated venting, but you are only interested in 120 volt power.

Please be more clear on what you are intending to do. Compressor fridge or absorption fridge?

[k corbin]

Originally Posted by Raspy

Jeff,

After re-reading your post, I still cannot figure out if you mean an absorption fridge running on shore power (120 volts) or if you mean a compressor fridge running on shore power.

The only venting required for a compressor fridge is to get rid of the box heat, the propane fridge requires better and more complicated venting, but you are only interested in 120 volt power.

Please be more clear on what you are intending to do. Compressor fridge or absorption fridge?

They are planning on using a little 110v "Dorm" size fridge like the under counter units you buy in a Home Depot or Walmart, Lowes and such. The kind college kids put in their dorm room.

[thrifty bill]

My plan on my old refrigerator:

Option 1: fix what I have. This is the preferred option.

Option 2: find a salvage refrigerator to replace.

Option 3: get one of the 12v truck refrigerators that are compressor based, highly efficient and rapidly going down in price. I’d probably keep it in my truck, the old Dometic would be used for storage.

One thing I would not do is get a dorm type 120v unit.. Over half of my camping is dry camping, no hookups. My solar should be enough to keep a small truck refrigerator working.

[Teddy]

Off the wall cheap solution... I love re-purposing and that old refrigerator would make a dandy icebox without having to completely replace it or resize the opening or finish trim it, etc. Why reinvent the wheel?
Just add additional cut and pieced-in foam block or spray insulation (both available at the big box depots) to the outside of your old Dometic - sides, back, bottom - wherever feasible and as space allows, Then, reinstall it and utilize it as a very efficient ice box. It will work peachy as an ice box and with the improved insulation added, it should give those fancy Yeti style coolers a good run for the mucho money you'll spend for one. If you don't utilize a tub to hold an ice block or bagged ice, (recommended) you can drill a hole at the lowest point of the interior floor and secure a plastic tubing drain outside for a melted water drain.

Another benefit? It will never break again, right?

Now, with all the money you saved, eventually add to your cooler kitty and snag a deal eventually on a smallish trucker style portable refrigerator (compressor model) and use it to supplement the ice box for use outside the trailer, inside the trailer or inside the tow vehicle for convenient use there, as well.
Good luck and Happy Independence Day
-Teddy

[Glenn Baglo]

Originally Posted by Teddy

Off the wall cheap solution...
-Teddy

Keeping in mind that every time you open the fridge, all the cold will spill out at the bottom.