Rigid Insulation Type and Re-installation of fasteners. - Fiberglass RV
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Old 04-26-2021, 02:57 PM   #1
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Name: Knoxy
Trailer: 1981 Bigfoot B17
Alberta
Posts: 8
Rigid Insulation Type and Re-installation of fasteners.

Currently in the middle of the process of shoring up the classic sagging roof on a 1981 Bigfoot B17 and I was cruising around picking up sealant, furring strips, etc yesterday and I took a gander at the Rigid insulation on home depot to gauge what I am going to expect for costs.

QUESTION: XPS or EPS insulation? Since this stuff is going to have screws, and supporting the weight of shelves, roof panels etc, I want to make sure that I am using the right stuff for adding screws to this. There are a few options for insulation and I want to make sure that I am using the right stuff, as I dont know what was originally used, or what is "best practice" for these renovations.

Option 1: Fomular XPS https://www.homedepot.ca/product/owe...dge/1000155116

Option #2: Durofoam EPS https://www.homedepot.ca/product/dur...nch/1000116769

Will be using PL Premium Fast Grab adhesive to adhere the furring strips, insulation etc, onto the freshly cleaned up glass on the roof, then BRADNAILING the wood panelling and trim to the insulation as needed, and screwing things in as needed.

Question #2: When re-installing the fasteners for the cabinets, am I okay to just put the new SS screws that I got for this into the original holes? or should I go to a new location? If I am using the old location, do I need to prepare the holes at all? add silicone to the penetration? Go to a bigger screw? Looking to make sure this thing is rock solid.

Question #3
Asbestos, the yellow insulation along the side panels as well as the insulation in the refrigerator heating column, flooring, and paneling. Does this stuff have Asbestos in it? Any references to be sure? Obviously I should probably get it tested and any sanding work I have used a respirator, but I am looking for a yes/no on this. From my understanding Bigfoot stopped using Asbestos early on, but I wanted to be sure, again 1981 B17 Bigfoot

Thank you all in advance.
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Old 04-29-2021, 08:04 PM   #2
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Name: Mark Bradley
Trailer: 1976 Boler B-1300 1980 Bigfoot B-17
Manitoba
Posts: 36
Hi Knoxy,

Good to see that you are back at it repairing your sagged Bigfoot ceiling. You were following my thread last summer as I was also repairing the ceiling on my Bigfoot. When I took the ceiling down it was 1" Styrofoam SM and the Formular XPS is the same other than a different manufacturer. Also there is no asbestos in the insulation that you are working with however it is the fiberglass particles that float in the air that I find is hazardous. I will be following your progress as the summer moves on and will be carrying on with my Bigfoot restoration in about a month. Besides, what else is there to do when Covid is still here?
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Old 04-29-2021, 08:11 PM   #3
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Name: bill
Trailer: 2013 Escape 19
The Mountains of North Carolina
Posts: 4,137
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And if you have any concerns on asbestos, you can buy a sample kit on Amazon and send a sample for testing. I sent in a couple of samples on my major home remodel last year. Lots of demolition. Wanted to know for sure.
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Old 04-30-2021, 10:07 AM   #4
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Name: Knoxy
Trailer: 1981 Bigfoot B17
Alberta
Posts: 8
Mark, yup back at er. Tore out the paneling and insulation in most of the roof last summer, THEN I busted my collar bone and needed surgery the following weekend, no overhead lifting, or work for the rest of the summer. Still got some decent camping in, but had to limp the bigfoot around with an un-insulated roof all summer. Which realistically wasn't all bad, but some of the leaking was still happening.

Anyways gotcha on the formular XPS, it seems like that is superior over the EPS but I was just concerned about making sure that adhesion is excellent to the roof surface, as well, holding power for the cabinets that stick to it afterwards.

Just reiterating the question, but when reinstalling the cabinet, and any screws in the new insulation, do i need to do anything to prepare that penetration? or just SS screws into it, don't over tighten?

FINALLY, the countertop and wall paneling behind the sink has separated from the wall, I have removed all the screws securing it to the wall, and will chock up the wall to push it into the cupboard/cabinet, and then, reinstall the screws.

Is there a preferred method to do this? use new/bigger screws? add wood glue or PL/construction adhesive? looking for advise here, as we plan to rebuild the countertop and remove the stove so we want to make sure the cabinet is in good shape prior to tackling that, and make sure that there is no 'baffling of the gelcoat/fiberglass down the highway as its connected to nothing!
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Old 04-30-2021, 01:56 PM   #5
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Name: Mark Bradley
Trailer: 1976 Boler B-1300 1980 Bigfoot B-17
Manitoba
Posts: 36
Hi Knoxy,

As far as reinstalling the cabinets I cannot comment because my method is different than yours. The existing lengths of wood that existed and that the cabinets screwed into were replaced. This was due to rot from the leaking roof. And I will be screwing the cabinets into the new support strips.
As far as fastening the countertop to the wall the only suggestion that I would have is to not use the existing holes.
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Old 05-03-2021, 12:04 AM   #6
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Name: Elliott
Trailer: Bigfoot
Everywhere
Posts: 462
XPS over EPS. Better water resistance, better R-value, and a bit sturdier. Only downside is it's a bit more expensive. Chemically it's the same as EPS, so the adhesive will work the same either way. XPS is just formed as a single block rather than stuck-together smaller beads. Neither will really hold screws and any weight by themselves, though, so you'll probably need some sort of wooden blocking or something.
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Old 05-03-2021, 12:06 AM   #7
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Name: Elliott
Trailer: Bigfoot
Everywhere
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For standard household screwholes that have stripped out, like in cabinets, I generally fill the hole with some sort of woodfiber source like broken-off toothpicks, plus wood glue. The end result's plenty strong to hold new screws.
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Old 05-03-2021, 09:13 AM   #8
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Name: Knoxy
Trailer: 1981 Bigfoot B17
Alberta
Posts: 8
Defenestrator,

Thanks for the reply!
I ended up going with the XPS, it is sturdier, but pricey, it is what it is, i only needed 4 sheets to plan out the whole inside of the trailer (or at least the parts that i could get to to replace)


As for screws, the entirety of the cabinets, roof platform and more or less construction of fiberglass trailers is based on the concept of these ridgid panels holding up some of the weight, so it needs to adhere a bit.

I know that the weight more or less shifts down to the floor but there is quite a bit of it supported by the rigid foam. When taking down the cabinets, i was surprised on how much of it was secured to the foam as well as wooden battens channeled into the foam.

First Piece of Foam went up yesterday afternoon, 3 whole tubes of PL adhesive to cover the entire thing but she will be stuurrrdy after this

https://photos.app.goo.gl/znaPmjPJu3PiuNXP8
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