ripping out rotted floor..... - Fiberglass RV
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Old 06-04-2008, 10:00 AM   #1
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Hello again,
In my last posting I thought my floor rot could be "patched" up with CPES and filler. But when I got in there and started ripping out the rot, I found that 3/4 of the plywood needs to be replaced. (where it goes into the body ledge)
Now that it is out, I can see and understand how it all goes together. That's great, but, now that I basically have a large section to add the the floor where there is no underneath support, I'm wondering how to add a supporting peice of metal or aluminum to the frame to "hold up" the new plywood in between the frame supports. (see pic) Has anyone else found this to be a problem?

I've been searching for some 'how to' posts regarding making a template for the new plywood, what to apply to the fiberglass ledge that the plywood fits into to attach in seal it, etc. My reinventing the wheel is so tiring. There has to be a better way.

I just found out my door is waterlogged as well......it came half way off on my shoulder when I opened it up to measure the floor the other day. It was extremely heavy!! Luckily I had a hacksaw within reach! Seems like everytime I step in it, there's another problem I need to fix!

On a positive note, I was able to find SS bolts and washers locally. Still trying to figure out what to use on the outside as a washer to go between the bolt and fiberglass body. I sure haven't found anything in any of my travels (other than nylon washers at lowes..very expensive). Any ideas? (Today I found the nails with the rubber washers at another hardware store; will take them off and try them!)

As you can see in this pic, it is very rough cut and needs to be cleaned up. Just bought a new zigsaw with a safety guard ....let me tell ya, that was a scary powertool I used!!! Still have all fingers though..not sure about the fillings!
Thanks for any help!
~Laurie
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Old 06-05-2008, 09:07 AM   #2
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3/4" or 5/8" Plywood with fiberglass on both sides is surprisingly strong; you probably won't need any additional supports at all.

Make a pattern out of small pieces of corrugated cardboard, pieced together--a lot easier than trying to cut one big piece to fit. Glue the pieces together with hot-melt glue.

They make steel washers with rubber washers bonded to them--they're used in roofing, I think. Any good-sized hardware store (I recommend Ace) will have them. (I think the steel washer part is actually stainless).

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Old 06-05-2008, 09:19 AM   #3
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I am using stainless steel washers with bonded rubber to seal my stainless bolts when I reattach my popup hardware. I found them at a reasonable price at McMaster Carr. They are overnight shipping to me but I'm not sure about your location. I order them online. I have used grainger also but they are wholsale to dealers only. McMaster will sell to anyone.

Hope that helps a little.

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Old 06-05-2008, 11:35 AM   #4
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Laurie,

We had to replace the back 3 feet of our former scamp's floor due to a leaky rear window. We removed the wood that met the fiberglass walls. On the cross brace we cut away half of the good floor from the brace so the new floor would be able to rest on half of the cross beam. (Sorry no pictures to explain better) Then we made a cardboard template and cut the OSB to match. Still had to do some trimming to fit properly. Once it fit, we removed it and painted 2 coats of fiberglass resin on the bottom side. Once it was dry we placed the piece inside. We screwed the new flooring to the braces where we could. Then we used 2 layers of fiberglass cloth with resin to seal underneath to the fiberglass wall and any seams. Did the same thing inside. When dried it was rock solid.

The fiberglass resin hardens quickly so make only enough that you feel you can apply before losing it. My husband mixed the resin and I placed the fiberglass cloth and painted the resin. It was our first attempt with fiberglass and turned out well in spite of no previous experience. It's been a couple of years but in the archives there are some threads with pictures and better explanations. And my favorite tool for the project was a Dremel tool with various attachments.

Good luck on your project!

Nita
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Old 06-05-2008, 01:29 PM   #5
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i'm using a dremel with a wood/fiberglass cutting wheel, & it cuts great...
but i haven't yet gotten to the point of making my cardboard template, so i cannot help further...
--- steven
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Old 06-05-2008, 05:37 PM   #6
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Quote:
That's great, but, now that I basically have a large section to add the the floor where there is no underneath support, I'm wondering how to add a supporting peice of metal or aluminum to the frame to "hold up" the new plywood in between the frame supports. (see pic) Has anyone else found this to be a problem?

Laurie I have a couple of ideas: 1st how about angle iron bolted to the crossmembers, as a shelf of sorts. 2nd how about a crosspice of wood wider then the space you cut, screwed to the existing floor on both sides of the opening you cut, with the patch piece on top and screwed in as well. This would tie the whole floor together.
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Old 06-06-2008, 06:39 AM   #7
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Ah....thanks everyone for your responses. I am having a peice of steel made for the support just to be safe. I just didn't want to add something to the frame if it was going to cause a problem for some reason. I'm usually the "helper", not the main mechanic, so these things just aren't second nature to me

If you use exterior plywood, does it need to sit for a while and dry out before I fiberglass it? (all the sheets they had at H.Depot were very wet)

Thanks also for the tip on the dremel tool. Great idea for those odd spots where a normal tool can't fit!

Will post pics on my progress,
~Laurie
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