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Old 06-10-2015, 09:01 PM   #21
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Name: John
Trailer: '71 Boler, '87 Play-Mor II
Deep South
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve_N_Janna View Post
Johnny - your questions have generated a lot of great suggestions. I think they all offer improvement over the factory build.

When we brought home our used '02 Scamp I noticed that the roof was sagging a bit under the weight of the factory A/C. I installed a closet mounted A/C in a previous trailer and am convinced that the roof units are far superior (cold air falls / warm air rises) and worth the negatives; cost and taller height.

Anyway, I was determined to strengthen the Scamp's roof. I'm sure I went way over board - but 3 and-a-half years later it's still looking good.

Home built cabinets are glassed in place. All rivet holes filled with a glass patch. Wood ribs in what I thought were strategic places glassed and epoxied in place. Plywood panel added to the roof - glued in place with PL polyuretane adhesive and secured with four screw bolts - heads of the bolts are sealed with epoxy on the exterior and painted over.

Way over engineered - but it is solid.
Thank you for the input! I considered wood ribs & plywood on the interior ceiling but wasn't sure that was the best way, so I thought I would go with aluminum u channel, but what you did looks very sturdy indeed. I really like what you did. Also looked at your Scamp's profile pictures which it turned out awesome...is that front toilet room also a shower? Really like the sink wanted to do this for my wife but with our layout I don't think there is room left for that...
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Old 06-11-2015, 07:42 AM   #22
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Name: JD
Trailer: Scamp 16 Modified (BIGLY)
Florida
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I think the wooden cabinets from front to back are a pretty good set of stringers to support the roof (and side walls).
Your setup on the side kitchen is very much like what I have done and I like it. I don't think the support is necessary with the full length overhead bins, but yours looks good!
I used the PL adhesive and sealant like you for most of the work, but I had some Bostick adhesive I started with.
Having used both 3/4" and 1/2" plywood I think that 1/2" is OK if it is glued and screws used to hold it in while it sets. I used sheet metal screws and pre-drilled the holes in the fiberglass after marking and removing the insulation. Then I added the glue to the inside if the shell and had help holding it tight and drilled pilot holes for the screws through the existing hole into the side of the ply. If you don't do this you may split the plies apart. The screws are just along for the ride after the glue sets anyway. I also used countersink washers and flathead sheetmetal screws so they would be almost flush when finished. I also added a dollop of Gorilla glue under the washer and screw head to make sure that this was sealed. Probably overkill.
Good luck with your project.
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Old 06-11-2015, 07:49 AM   #23
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Name: Joe
Trailer: 1973 13' Boler
Ontario
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Originally Posted by stevebaz View Post
They are hard to find when you need them. They are even harder to find in the odd lengths we use on the Scamp trailers. I often have to trim long rivets to fit and cutting the cap off the end will still leave an open rivet.
Do you have Fastenal in the US? They are a great source for rivets. Here are the type I use, avail in all sorts of diff sizes.

https://www.fastenal.com/products/de...6?term=0124916
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Old 06-11-2015, 08:39 AM   #24
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Name: Steve
Trailer: Scamp 13
California
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Allot of different lengths but not much available once you get past 3/4". Scamp uses several sizes between 3/4" and 1-1/4" which I have only been able to buy from Scamp. I have 10,000 rivets at home of all different types but long ones not so much. Mc Master Carr is also a good source.
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Old 06-11-2015, 08:55 AM   #25
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Name: JD
Trailer: Scamp 16 Modified (BIGLY)
Florida
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I bought some large headed rivets from Fastenal and planned to use them instead of the button caps with sealant under the head, but went a different way.

The large head would spread out the stress and provide more surface for a sealant to work all the way around.
A dab of Gorilla glue on the hole where the nail breaks of would insure a seal. Also help rust proof the outside. (this particular is aluminum for the body and the mandrel so rust would not be an issue.
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Old 06-19-2015, 01:04 PM   #26
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Name: Colleen
Trailer: Trillium
WA
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Go to http://www.sailrite.com for every darn rivet you'll ever need plus plenty of instructional videos on all kinds of cool things.

The only advice I can give is to make sure the rivet just fits in the hole. If it's too small for the hole, it won't scrunch up properly inside to hold it tight.

Colleen


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Old 06-19-2015, 07:12 PM   #27
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Since I retired in 05 I've lost count of the number of Eggs I have refurbished, at least 10.
I have replaced a great many rivets.
I use the standard, off the shelf Aluminum rivets from Ace hardware or any of the big box stores.
Five years ago I replaced every rivet and snap cap in a 16' Scamp because the snap caps were all gone and the cap collars were rotten.
I was caught in a rain storm in Teton Park that was so intense I had to pull off the road as I couldn't see.
It lasted almost an hour.
NEVER had a leak.
Sold a 73 13" Scamp 4 months ago that never had the snap caps so I replaced all of the rivets and snap caps.
There was a BOLTED on awning rail which every bolt had leaked.
After cleaning up all the RUST STAINS I riveted the awning rail on.


Plain old aluminum rivets are still holding 40 year old Eggs together well.
Why change a proven product.


I would rivet AFTER painting.
If you should have to replace a rivet, if its covered with paint and primer
it might tear the paint.


John
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Old 06-22-2015, 01:24 PM   #28
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Name: John
Trailer: '71 Boler, '87 Play-Mor II
Deep South
Posts: 1,259
Quote:
Originally Posted by Perry J View Post
Since I retired in 05 I've lost count of the number of Eggs I have refurbished, at least 10.
I have replaced a great many rivets.
I use the standard, off the shelf Aluminum rivets from Ace hardware or any of the big box stores.
Five years ago I replaced every rivet and snap cap in a 16' Scamp because the snap caps were all gone and the cap collars were rotten.
I was caught in a rain storm in Teton Park that was so intense I had to pull off the road as I couldn't see.
It lasted almost an hour.
NEVER had a leak.
Sold a 73 13" Scamp 4 months ago that never had the snap caps so I replaced all of the rivets and snap caps.
There was a BOLTED on awning rail which every bolt had leaked.
After cleaning up all the RUST STAINS I riveted the awning rail on.


Plain old aluminum rivets are still holding 40 year old Eggs together well.
Why change a proven product.


I would rivet AFTER painting.
If you should have to replace a rivet, if its covered with paint and primer
it might tear the paint.


John
You make a good point, makes sense about the paint tearing if replacing a rivet, the only reason I considered painting after rivets was so the primer would help seal to prevent leaks but if the rivets won't leak if properly installed then I will paint first. Thanks for the reply John
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