Rotten floor - Fiberglass RV


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 08-04-2012, 08:22 AM   #1
Senior Member
 
Name: Cathy
Trailer: 1973 Love Bug '13
Florida
Posts: 400
Registry
Rotten floor

Taking all of the loose parts out today, bench tops, bed support etc. found about 12" of rotten floor. Really soft. I'm going to need to take out the fiberglass benches on either side. Don't see any rivets or screws on the outside. Is ther anything specific that I should know before I start? Also, what is the best short term solution for unsealed rivet holes. Hat to get the fiberglass out yet. No garage to keep all dry. Covering with a tarp for the time being.

Cathy
__________________

Cat futrell is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-04-2012, 08:30 AM   #2
Senior Member
 
Name: Cathy
Trailer: 1973 Love Bug '13
Florida
Posts: 400
Registry
Here is a picture of the floor
__________________

Cat futrell is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-04-2012, 08:35 AM   #3
Senior Member
 
Name: Cathy
Trailer: 1973 Love Bug '13
Florida
Posts: 400
Registry
sorry, here is the pic of the rotten floor.
Attached Thumbnails
DSCN9310.jpg   DSCN9311.jpg  

DSCN9312.jpg  
Cat futrell is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-04-2012, 08:42 AM   #4
Senior Member
 
Donna D.'s Avatar
 
Name: Donna D
Trailer: Escape 5.0 TA, 2014
Oregon
Posts: 25,065
Cathy, I can't tell. Is the floor rot where you'll walk or apply weight of any kind? If NOT, you may want to read thoroughly this thread... sounds like GitRot MAY work for you: http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...rot-29653.html

Git Rot may be available at Home Depot or Lowes. I know it's available at West Marine: http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs...0092&langId=-1

Let us know how it goes.
__________________
Donna D.
Ten Forward - 2014 Escape 5.0 TA
Double Yolk - 1988 16' Scamp Deluxe
Donna D. is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 08-04-2012, 08:50 AM   #5
Senior Member
 
Name: Cathy
Trailer: 1973 Love Bug '13
Florida
Posts: 400
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by Donna D. View Post
Cathy, I can't tell. Is the floor rot where you'll walk or apply weight of any kind? If NOT, you may want to read thoroughly this thread... sounds like GitRot MAY work for you: http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...rot-29653.html

Let us know how it goes.
Donna, it is not where you walk, it is at the across the entire tail end of the trailer where I suspected that rear window leak. It's pretty soft completely through on the passenger side, and still damp. Im going to let it dry befor I make a final decision but I think it is going to be too soft for the GitRot. Will be using GitRot at the door way though. What about the holes in the shell after I take the dinette benches out. temp solution to close them? not ready to get the bondo out yet.
Cat futrell is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-04-2012, 08:54 AM   #6
Senior Member
 
Name: Cathy
Trailer: 1973 Love Bug '13
Florida
Posts: 400
Registry
Also, Do you know if anybody has used the Git-rot with a form. If so, I could put a backer form under the hole and fill it along with the soft floor?
Cat futrell is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-04-2012, 11:50 AM   #7
Senior Member
 
Carol Ann in TO's Avatar
 
Trailer: 1972 Boler American and 1979 Trillium 4500
Posts: 395
Registry
Temp hole filling -- shove in a wee bit of butyl tape
Carol Ann in TO is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-04-2012, 01:53 PM   #8
Senior Member
 
Roy in TO's Avatar
 
Name: Roy
Trailer: 1972 boler American and 1979 Trillium 4500
Ontario
Posts: 5,025
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cat futrell View Post
it is at the across the entire tail end of the trailer where I suspected that rear window leak. ...

What about the holes in the shell after I take the dinette benches out. temp solution to close them? not ready to get the bondo out yet.
The leak could be elsewhere and the trailer was stored nose up, water runs and collects down hill.

You should not have holes in the shell after you take the benches out. But I think you can see that now. That is I see you have taken the benches out.
Roy in TO is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-05-2012, 03:12 PM   #9
Senior Member
 
Name: Cathy
Trailer: 1973 Love Bug '13
Florida
Posts: 400
Registry
I thought I just posted this but if I did I can;t find it. In evaluation the rot in the floor I have come to two more questions. 1. Is the strip of plywood that acts as a bench support on the inside of the belly fiber-glassed on. It seems to be but I am hoping for a simpler fix than trying to reproduce the original.

Also, I think I should try to lift, slightly, the rear end of the shell but not from the bottom. can it be raised by the belly band? how? Just need to lift an inch or two to enable new floor to slide under the edge of the interior shell.
Attached Thumbnails
rotten rear floor (12).jpg  
Cat futrell is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-05-2012, 03:13 PM   #10
Senior Member
 
Name: Cathy
Trailer: 1973 Love Bug '13
Florida
Posts: 400
Registry
I added more pics to this new address..

https://picasaweb.google.com/1033241.../RottenRearEnd
Cat futrell is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-05-2012, 04:54 PM   #11
Senior Member
 
Roy in TO's Avatar
 
Name: Roy
Trailer: 1972 boler American and 1979 Trillium 4500
Ontario
Posts: 5,025
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cat futrell View Post
1. Is the strip of plywood that acts as a bench support on the inside of the belly fiber-glassed on. It seems to be but I am hoping for a simpler fix than trying to reproduce the original.

Also, I think I should try to lift, slightly, the rear end of the shell but not from the bottom. can it be raised by the belly band? how? Just need to lift an inch or two to enable new floor to slide under the edge of the interior shell.
If your plywood is not too bad you might be able to get away with gluing and clamping the layers back together. I was able to do that with mine.



I've seen pictures of people using plywood jigs to hold the body up by the belly band. Search for some of the threads where they take the body off to get ideas of how different people have done it.
Roy in TO is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-05-2012, 05:09 PM   #12
Senior Member
 
Name: Cathy
Trailer: 1973 Love Bug '13
Florida
Posts: 400
Registry
great picture, thanks. do the campers come apart at the belly band? I mean are the two sides actually attached at that point or does it function more as support. If I take off the black rubberized channel will I expose a potential leak source? I am still trying to get my head around how these things are put together. I realize that it varies from manufacturer to manufacturer.

Roy, did you replace any floor in your project?
Cat futrell is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-05-2012, 05:37 PM   #13
Senior Member
 
Name: Cathy
Trailer: 1973 Love Bug '13
Florida
Posts: 400
Registry
great pic Roy, helps me understand. Is that your Boler in the photo.
Cat futrell is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-05-2012, 07:44 PM   #14
Senior Member
 
Name: Eddie
Trailer: 2014 Escape 21, Lil Joe
Florida
Posts: 1,726
Cat
First let me say I have only seen one love bug and I can only speak from my experience with Scamps. When a rear floor is rotted all the way around the edges of the dinette floor the complete rear dinette deck needs to be replaced. The floor is what supports your shell in a Scamp.
First thing to do as you asked is to support the rear of the shell. On a Scamp I stand a 2X4 on each frame rail where the rail meets the rear bumper and lean it against the belly band (On the outside of the trailer). Make a mark on each 2X4 on the at the bottom of the belly band. Then look at the spacing between each frame rail and the shell. On a Scamp there should be about 1/4" space. If the shell is touching the frame add 1/4 inch to the mark on your 2x4 and cut the 2x4's. To raise the shell I put a block on the rear bumper and try to carefully pry up under the spare tire with another 2X4. If you stand your cut 2X4's on your rear bumper and lean them against your belly band and you raise the shell to the proper height the blocks should drop in between frame rails and belly band.
If the 2X4 blocks don't fall into place raise the shell as much as you can, remark and recut the 2X4 blocks. At least your shell won't wont sag any further. Now you can start to remove the rear floor section.
Eddie
Eddie Longest is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 08-06-2012, 09:16 AM   #15
Commercial Member
 
Robert Johans's Avatar
 
Name: Robert
Trailer: Nest Caravans
Oregon
Posts: 822
Registry
Cat, may I refer you to this link? Perhaps you will find something of interest.

http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...-in-50903.html
Robert Johans is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-06-2012, 09:18 AM   #16
Senior Member
 
Roy in TO's Avatar
 
Name: Roy
Trailer: 1972 boler American and 1979 Trillium 4500
Ontario
Posts: 5,025
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cat futrell View Post
I mean are the two sides actually attached at that point {belly band} or does it function more as support. If I take off the black rubberized channel will I expose a potential leak source?
Roy, did you replace any floor in your project?
Brian BP gave a good description on bolerama:
"The two halves do have flat lips resting against each other, but they are not held together by the band or by the rivets through it. Fiberglass was applied to the inside of the joint before the wall lining was installed, to hold them together and seal the joint. The band is only decorative (to finish off the edges of the lips)"

I did not need to replace my floor. For my much smaller soft spots, I overlaid a fiberglass patch on the underside, then used "git rot" or something similar from the top.

Your leaks could be anywhere, gravity affects where the water ends up. It usually follows the seams in the Ensolite or where the Ensolite has separated from the body. You can try running a hose over various parts and watch from inside to narrow down the potential sources.
Roy in TO is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-06-2012, 09:28 AM   #17
Senior Member
 
Roy in TO's Avatar
 
Name: Roy
Trailer: 1972 boler American and 1979 Trillium 4500
Ontario
Posts: 5,025
Great work on that restoration Robert,
I only wish I had the time and place to do that kind of work.

We do have to stop posting at the same time though.
Roy in TO is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-06-2012, 10:44 AM   #18
Senior Member
 
Name: Cathy
Trailer: 1973 Love Bug '13
Florida
Posts: 400
Registry
[QUOTE=Robert Johans;325932]Cat, may I refer you to this link? Perhaps you will find something of interest.

Robert dear Robert, you are what I have been looking for. I viewed the thread and now I think I'll go shoot myself. What beautiful work. I hope that you will be kind enough to give me some tips. I don't need all of the beauty inside, at this point I just want a safe shell to camp in. Im not even sure if I can do electric right now, don't "need" that or water for now. just want to camp. I do want to raise the ground clearance because of the places that I enjoy camping.

When I got this little guy (my first camper) I just wanted to go camping. The PO represented it as sound, we did inspect but really didn't know what we were doing "duh". He may not have been aware of the issues. If you pulled on paved roads and didn't look you might not.

I mostly boondock as I have been a tent camper. My health is declining and I needed to simplify the process. lol, NOT cry out loud is more like it. I guess you have seen some of my posts "I'm in a mess" limited resources so trying to do things a little at a time. It is looking more and more like the "little" surprises I have found under the rear dinette are going to cause big problems.

Upon further inspection of the underside I have found that the plywood floor under the tongue end has mashed and broken a groove where it meets the trailer frame. And I'm pretty sure the trailer frame will need some reinforcement allong with axel replacement and mods to lift clearance. Also planning to add brakes. I anticipated the frame and axle work. Hoping for less than 1k for that. My prime destination is in the Western Carolina Mountains so thought the brakes should be done while I'm at it.

Had planned to fool around with the configuration inside, do some fiberglass repair, and eventually paint. I don't need pretty just function. Replace old screens, maybe reseat windows. This floor thing has me boggled.

As you, in your infinite wisdom on the subject, know - the Love Bug isn't very prevalent so information on construction and order of deconstruction has been limited. I feel that I must remove the shell in order to do a proper repair on the floor.

I you will help me understand these things before I get into the middle of it I will be forever grateful. Trying to count the cost and decide how much I can just live with. (for now)

1. Must I remove all of the cabinets, windows, etc to lift the shell?
2. What is the best way to lift the shell and how is it attached to the trailer?
3. Since I am cant do the the weld work myself, what is the best way to instruct the craftsman who will be doing the work. Taking it to a shop that only works on trailers, not necessarily campers, just trailers. Getting estimate before we decide.
4. Will you please pray for me!

Thank you for posting your link, I see that you get swamped with admirers, hope you can find the time for one more.

Cathy
Cat futrell is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-06-2012, 10:56 AM   #19
Senior Member
 
Name: Cathy
Trailer: 1973 Love Bug '13
Florida
Posts: 400
Registry
I forgot to mention that the wheel well on the galley side is buckled and cracked open to the tire, likely the cause of some of the water damage.
Cat futrell is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-06-2012, 11:06 AM   #20
Senior Member
 
Name: Cathy
Trailer: 1973 Love Bug '13
Florida
Posts: 400
Registry
Just realized that you already answered question 2 in your previous post. Got so excited about your experience I missed it completely till I went back to read it again.
__________________

Cat futrell is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
rotten burro floor HELP?!!!??? kygould Problem Solving | Owners Helping Owners 4 07-08-2011 12:35 PM
Removing the rotten section of floor BigMike Problem Solving | Owners Helping Owners 2 05-10-2011 03:52 AM
Scamp '13 Rotten Floor and Frame damage. Oliver P Problem Solving | Owners Helping Owners 12 08-22-2009 05:35 PM
overcoming a "charm-ectomy", rotten floor & other issue Kelly G Problem Solving | Owners Helping Owners 5 05-22-2009 12:57 PM
Rotten Wood Donna D. General Chat 13 08-16-2006 04:26 PM

» Upcoming Events
No events scheduled in
the next 465 days.
» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 07:00 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
×