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05-08-2017, 07:15 AM
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#1
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Member
Name: Beth
Trailer: Parkliner
Maryland
Posts: 41
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Rough-edged fiberglass in cubbies
No it's not poison ivy it's fiberglass shards! After stuffing all our bedding and towels in our new Parkliner cubbies and then itching for days I realized the rough unfinished portions in all the cubbies actually are getting fiberglass into our stuff. I also jabbed my finger while feeling around on a fiberglass "needle". Not cool! Any advice on what to do? I thought about adding carpet strips to the bottom of the cubbies but the roughness is up the sides in some places. Ugh. Going on a two week trip soon and have some work arounds but they limit the space. Want to fix this when we get back. Any advice appreciated.
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05-08-2017, 07:28 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Name: John
Trailer: '71 Boler, '87 Play-Mor II
Deep South
Posts: 1,261
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Is it a new Parkliner? If so you could have them sand down the rough edges then I would thouroghly vacuum it to remove the fiberglass dust residue. On a side note hair conditioner and micro bristle brush and thorough rinsing will help get it off your skin
__________________
1971 Boler 1300 - "Suite 13"
1987 Play-Mor II - "The Beach House"
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05-08-2017, 07:38 AM
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#3
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Member
Name: Beth
Trailer: Parkliner
Maryland
Posts: 41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnny M
Is it a new Parkliner? If so you could have them sand down the rough edges then I would thouroghly vacuum it to remove the fiberglass dust residue. On a side note hair conditioner and micro bristle brush and thorough rinsing will help get it off your skin
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Yes it is new. Trying to avoid the drive to NC and also don't trust them to do a good job. But maybe it will come to that.
Thanks for the skin cleaning tip. And I guess multiple washings until it all gets out of the towels bedding and clothes.
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05-08-2017, 07:38 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Name: Jon
Trailer: 2008 Scamp 13 S1
Arizona
Posts: 11,926
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Interesting... I don't think I have heard this mentioned before, at least not recently, and I couldn't turn up any old threads.
Three thoughts... (1) It will go away over time. My 4 year old Scamp did not have any issues when I got it. (2) You can speed it along with some light sanding (wear protection- gloves, mask, goggles, long sleeves). Vacuum thoroughly after. (3) Store soft stuff in bins. We keep our clothes in duffle bags and towels in stacking bins in the closet.
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05-08-2017, 08:05 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Name: bob
Trailer: 1996 Casita 17 Spirit Deluxe; 1946 Modernistic teardrop
New York
Posts: 5,413
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Same issue with our Uhaul camper, rough fiberglass and slivers in the storage areas. I mixed up some fiberglass resin and painted it on the rough surfaces to smooth it out. Other options as stated above, cover with carpet or something similar, or sand it smooth. Sanding fiberglass can have nasty results so I wouldn't recommend that, the dust is bad stuff. As it's a new trailer I would vacuum out any areas you can get at as it may not have been thoroughly cleaned after assembly.
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05-08-2017, 09:10 AM
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#6
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Member
Name: Bill
Trailer: Escape
Wisconsin
Posts: 64
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Put the trim pieces on it...
Just put the vinyl edges moldings on it.
__________________
Around a campfire everyone is a raconteur - Escape 19
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05-08-2017, 10:08 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Name: Kathleen (Kai: ai as in wait)
Trailer: Amerigo FG-16 1973 "Peanut"
Greater Seattle Metropolitan Area, Washington
Posts: 2,566
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I like the bins/duffel concept for a quick fix...there are plastic storage bags/zip bags too, fairly easy to find--we bought some blue ones at Ace hardware in different sizes, and they are pretty strong, that is, puncture-resistant. There's a good, quick fix. You can use some of those little moisture-absorbent packets in the bags to keep humidity down inside the bags. Also sold at some hardware stores, OR you can use paper or cloth packets of borax (such as 20-Mule Team Borax), which work very much the same way, pulling moisture out of the air. Or use some of the refill crystals from Dry-Z-Air or similar product.
Paul said he would sand with coarse then finer and finer sandpaper, wearing protective mask, goggles, and gloves, then vacuum, then wipe with acetone, then wash down with plain soap and water, then let dry, then prime and paint with boat / fiberglass enamel.
But that's hardly a "quick" fix and sounds like it'll be a bit awkward as to access...but worth it in the end as then it'll be "right."
You could consider gluing "ensolite" in there! I think it's more flexible than carpet...though carpet would work, too.
Lots of options.
BEST
Kai
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05-08-2017, 10:11 AM
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#8
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Junior Member
Name: Jan
Trailer: Scamp - restored Aug. 2017
California
Posts: 11
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I used paintable caulking around all the sharp edges. Then painted two coats of primer on all the surfaces in my tall closet and the cabinet above the sink/stove area. Then painted a final coat of color. For areas that I wanted a much smoother look and feel I lined with thick, soft matte vinyl with spray adhesive. The bottom of the shelves I put down thick clear shelf liner. It's smooth, easy to clean and looks good, too. And, no Fiberglas !! Did the same with all the hatch enclosures under the seats. I have a 1982 13' Scamp I bought last August and what a mess just finishing the final touches of renovation.
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05-08-2017, 10:29 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Name: Kathleen (Kai: ai as in wait)
Trailer: Amerigo FG-16 1973 "Peanut"
Greater Seattle Metropolitan Area, Washington
Posts: 2,566
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Did not know spray adhesive would hold flexible vinyl! That's a good idea! And just realized we could use flooring vinyl (we can get free scraps from our local floor shop) for the bottoms inside--good ideas, all.
Thanks
Kai
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05-08-2017, 10:34 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Name: John
Trailer: '71 Boler, '87 Play-Mor II
Deep South
Posts: 1,261
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon in AZ
Interesting... I don't think I have heard this mentioned before, at least not recently, and I couldn't turn up any old threads.
Three thoughts... (1) It will go away over time. My 4 year old Scamp did not have any issues when I got it. (2) You can speed it along with some light sanding (wear protection- gloves, mask, goggles, long sleeves). Vacuum thoroughly after. (3) Store soft stuff in bins. We keep our clothes in duffle bags and towels in stacking bins in the closet.
Attachment 105822
Attachment 105823
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Jon I guess it depend on the unit our 71 Boler had glass splinters in the fiberglass cabinets which is one reason I built custom wood ones. Only takes a few sharp jabs to the fingers to decide thats gotta be fixed.
__________________
1971 Boler 1300 - "Suite 13"
1987 Play-Mor II - "The Beach House"
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05-08-2017, 10:50 AM
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#11
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Senior Member
Name: Jon
Trailer: 2008 Scamp 13 S1
Arizona
Posts: 11,926
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I'm almost wondering now if Scamp paints or otherwise treats the inner side of the cabinets at the factory. The inner surface of the closet is wavy but smooth, no fibers sticking out. Cut edges have a white U-molding covering them. Definitely hasn't been a problem. I'll have to look closer when I clean it up later this week for our first trip.
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05-08-2017, 11:27 AM
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#12
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Junior Member
Name: Jan
Trailer: Scamp - restored Aug. 2017
California
Posts: 11
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My scamp had the white vinyl with foam backing. It was all torn up and filthy so I had to remove it. Surface could not be smoothed out and Fiberglas was sticking out all around the edges, very dangers like needles sticking out. So, I decided to just cover it with something nice that was easy to clean, after I did the prime painting so the adhesive has something to stick to.
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05-08-2017, 01:21 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Name: Kelly
Trailer: Trails West
Oregon
Posts: 3,047
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I would suggest going to your local home center supply store, one of the large supermarkets or you hardware store and purchase rolls of the EVA foam type of drawer liner. Get the soft cushion but solid type rather than the waffle weave with open spaces. You can install it using the standard brush on yellow colored contact cement from Weldwood. That is a widely available glue found in most home center and hardware stores. It sticks to the foam and too fiberglass and is good for high temperature situations as well as low temperatures. It is one of the RV industry standard adhesives.
This type of drawer liner product will solve your problem with the fiberglass as it will cover over it and it is a washable surface that will last a great many years. It will also give you other added benefits. It will cushion the objects in the cabinet and it will keep things from sliding around in the cabinet. But EVA foam also does two other great things, it is a good insulator and it reduces the transmission of noise.
So in conclusion using a known to be durable product that was made for use inside of cabinets is actually a great way to solve your issue.
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05-08-2017, 02:32 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Name: Tammie
Trailer: ParkLiner
Alabama
Posts: 169
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Quote:
Originally Posted by k corbin
I would suggest going to your local home center supply store, one of the large supermarkets or you hardware store and purchase rolls of the EVA foam type of drawer liner. Get the soft cushion but solid type rather than the waffle weave with open spaces. You can install it using the standard brush on yellow colored contact cement from Weldwood. That is a widely available glue found in most home center and hardware stores. It sticks to the foam and too fiberglass and is good for high temperature situations as well as low temperatures. It is one of the RV industry standard adhesives.
This type of drawer liner product will solve your problem with the fiberglass as it will cover over it and it is a washable surface that will last a great many years. It will also give you other added benefits. It will cushion the objects in the cabinet and it will keep things from sliding around in the cabinet. But EVA foam also does two other great things, it is a good insulator and it reduces the transmission of noise.
So in conclusion using a known to be durable product that was made for use inside of cabinets is actually a great way to solve your issue.
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That's exactly what we did!
Using newspaper, we made templates for all the surfaces in each compartment. The drawer liner we used was Duck brand, and like KC described, is a solid cushiony sheet. It was glued in with 3M Yellow Super Trim Adhesive- heat and moisture resistant for automotive use.
It's been in place for a year and a half, exposed to all the heat and humidity Alabama and Florida have to offer, with no problems whatsoever.
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05-08-2017, 03:50 PM
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#15
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Member
Name: Beth
Trailer: Parkliner
Maryland
Posts: 41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon in AZ
Interesting... I don't think I have heard this mentioned before, at least not recently, and I couldn't turn up any old threads.
Three thoughts... (1) It will go away over time. My 4 year old Scamp did not have any issues when I got it. (2) You can speed it along with some light sanding (wear protection- gloves, mask, goggles, long sleeves). Vacuum thoroughly after. (3) Store soft stuff in bins. We keep our clothes in duffle bags and towels in stacking bins in the closet.
Attachment 105822
Attachment 105823
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Thanks Jon. I like your organization!
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05-08-2017, 03:51 PM
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#16
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Member
Name: Beth
Trailer: Parkliner
Maryland
Posts: 41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mary and bob
Same issue with our Uhaul camper, rough fiberglass and slivers in the storage areas. I mixed up some fiberglass resin and painted it on the rough surfaces to smooth it out. Other options as stated above, cover with carpet or something similar, or sand it smooth. Sanding fiberglass can have nasty results so I wouldn't recommend that, the dust is bad stuff. As it's a new trailer I would vacuum out any areas you can get at as it may not have been thoroughly cleaned after assembly.
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Sorry you had same issue! Thanks for the tips.
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05-08-2017, 03:52 PM
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#17
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Member
Name: Beth
Trailer: Parkliner
Maryland
Posts: 41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scamp-
Just put the vinyl edges moldings on it.
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Not sure what that is?
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05-08-2017, 03:53 PM
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#18
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Member
Name: Beth
Trailer: Parkliner
Maryland
Posts: 41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kai in Seattle
I like the bins/duffel concept for a quick fix...there are plastic storage bags/zip bags too, fairly easy to find--we bought some blue ones at Ace hardware in different sizes, and they are pretty strong, that is, puncture-resistant. There's a good, quick fix. You can use some of those little moisture-absorbent packets in the bags to keep humidity down inside the bags. Also sold at some hardware stores, OR you can use paper or cloth packets of borax (such as 20-Mule Team Borax), which work very much the same way, pulling moisture out of the air. Or use some of the refill crystals from Dry-Z-Air or similar product.
Paul said he would sand with coarse then finer and finer sandpaper, wearing protective mask, goggles, and gloves, then vacuum, then wipe with acetone, then wash down with plain soap and water, then let dry, then prime and paint with boat / fiberglass enamel.
But that's hardly a "quick" fix and sounds like it'll be a bit awkward as to access...but worth it in the end as then it'll be "right."
You could consider gluing "ensolite" in there! I think it's more flexible than carpet...though carpet would work, too.
Lots of options.
BEST
Kai
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Thank you. Great ideas.
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05-08-2017, 03:54 PM
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#19
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Member
Name: Beth
Trailer: Parkliner
Maryland
Posts: 41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jan C J
I used paintable caulking around all the sharp edges. Then painted two coats of primer on all the surfaces in my tall closet and the cabinet above the sink/stove area. Then painted a final coat of color. For areas that I wanted a much smoother look and feel I lined with thick, soft matte vinyl with spray adhesive. The bottom of the shelves I put down thick clear shelf liner. It's smooth, easy to clean and looks good, too. And, no Fiberglas !! Did the same with all the hatch enclosures under the seats. I have a 1982 13' Scamp I bought last August and what a mess just finishing the final touches of renovation.
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Thanks. So much work and your camper looks fabulous!
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05-08-2017, 04:57 PM
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#20
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Senior Member
Name: Steve
Trailer: 2018, 21ft escape— 2019 Ram 1500 Laramie
NW Wisconsin
Posts: 4,500
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We had some rough spots in the fiberglass of our old scamp.
I lightly sanded the areas and applied a couple coats of varnish.
Plenty smooth , easy to clean and if you drip it doesn't show up like paint.
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