Safe to not use a battery box?

[JackieLynn]

Quote--

We still have the tongue box that comes with the Bigfoot, so the entire front area (battery and propane tanks) are still protected. Is this setup safe?

[/QUOTE]


I think a battery box would be good. And not a big expense.
But I think it would be safe as is. I think others are missing that it will be covered.


Sent from my iPhone using Fiberglass RV

[Kai in Seattle]

Well, then, it's covered. That is a BEAUTIFUL tongue cover!

[gordon2]

Originally Posted by Gordon in Idaho

I must be missing something. I have had that unpleasant surprise of crossing the battery terminals with a wrench, and I'm very careful now. However, that is a momentary short, whereas a battery flooded on top with rain water might be the short that destroys the battery for good. Am I wrong?

Not necessarily, the wrench (or whatever) can be almost instantaneously "arc welded" to the battery post.

Originally Posted by Gordon in Idaho

And, gordon2, what size fuse do you use and why?

Fuse size depends on the rig, wire size, etc. What I use might be different and not apply to anyone else.

Scamp used an in-line fuse holder with a (if I recall right) 20 amp fuse about ten inches from the battery.

I have since made some changes and added a solar system with 8 gauge wiring, so with greater capacity between the shunt, solar charger, and battery, I use a 30 amp AT THE BATTERY. The, where the trailer's main wiring begins inside the camper I use the same in-line 20 amp.

Its still similar to the two fuse set up that Scamp has in their wiring diagram.

[gordon2]

Originally Posted by JackieLynn

Quote--

We still have the tongue box that comes with the Bigfoot, so the entire front area (battery and propane tanks) are still protected. Is this setup safe?

OH THATS DIFFERENT! Fist I heard of the cover I think.

STILL please fuse the battery as close to the positive post as you can.

THEN YOU ARE GOOD TO GO!

(Unless someone wants to discuss ventilating the lighter than air and explosive gas that comes out of the battery, esp. when it is charging). As a general rule, ventilation holes should be at the highest point in the cover.

http://www.battcon.com/papersfinal20...008proof_6.pdf

[Darral T.]

Ahhhh, I feel MUCHO better now.

One thing I would STILL do differently, automobiles STILL have a cover that goes over the "Positive" (red) terminal. For instance, you're removing a tank and it slips or what ever and bumps the hot and sparks etc.... the "scare" alone could cause you to drop the tank and hurt yourself...

Otherwise, gotta admit, I LOVE that cover!

[The Minimalist]

Originally Posted by Darral T.

Sorry...I view that picture as TOTALLY UNSAFE! Yes, you have a battery in your automobile not in a "box" but it IS closed in under a hood where something cant fall on it.

I just cant believe a question could come up like this when battery boxes are too cheap to argue about...especially where the positive/negative battery terminals are exposed AND in easy reach for children!!!

I'm with you, Darral. Out at the farm we have a battery on an irrigation pump, without a box. Nobody goes up on the platform much, except to start and stop the pump, and they know what they are doing.

Regarding ventilation holes, I also drilled holes in each of the bottom corners of my box to get rid of any rain that gets in..............and yes, it does.

In a campground there are way more opportunities to short the posts, and if the battery is in any kind of overcharge state someone could get acid residue on their skin and cloths.

Battery boxes are cheap and an effective means of protecting the battery and people who go near it. Even if you have to do minor modifications to mount it, it's worth the small investment of time and money.

[Darwin Maring]

Just do yourself a favor and put it in a battery box that has a lid. Then you will not have to worry about a rock hitting the battery and draining out the acid that may prove to be deadly to some person or animal or something shorting out the battery and catching something on fire or cause an explosion because of a propane leak.

[Timber Wolf]

I have two 6v batteries and one propane on the tongue in a custom "cover". No separate box for the batteries. I tried to find a box or boxes for the batteries but could not fit any in the space I had which was barely long enough for just the two batteries. I do have an appropriately sized fuse, and plastic shielding* at the positive terminal and connections. The batteries are well secured to custom tray I made for them and after a couple of years, a few thousand miles, and some pretty bad terrain taken at too high a speed, everything has stayed put.


*The "shielding" is actually plastic sleeving for copper water pipe when you run it up through a concrete slab. I cut a piece to length, six inches or so, and slit the bottom of one end an inch or two. It slides over the wire and then over the terminal on the battery and works slick. It is even red so lends a professional touch to the installation! Just don't tell anybody I am using plumbing in the electrical circuit!

[Carol H]

Originally Posted by JackieLynn

Quote--

We still have the tongue box that comes with the Bigfoot, so the entire front area (battery and propane tanks) are still protected. Is this setup safe?

Without a box there is nothing stopping dust and mud etc from coming up from below and getting all over the greased battery connections. Also nothing stopping bad stuff from dripping down and out onto the trailer frame or ground should the battery leak.

If your having to take the cover off to turn the tanks on and off each time then there is a still the risk of something contacting with the terminals.

A box is cheap insurance.

The only reason I have a custom box for my 6 volts is because the propane cover on my OSB trailer is only large enough to cover the propane tanks and the space originally allocated to the battery box just ahead of the tanks would only hold a group 27 battery box that sat down low between the tongue frame. Current box still sits ahead of the propane tanks but its now sitting up on the frame - not the best but it works. I do not think you would need to do this with your Bigfoot looks like you may have room under the current cover for 2 six volts.

[Dudley]

I would defiantly go with a battery box for not only the shorting hazard but it will also protect from flying rocks which do quite a bit of damage to the battery case. You will then be looking at a replacement battery and repainting the frame and possibly replacing wiring from acid damage. A battery case is pretty cheap insurance.

[40bpm]

I like the idea of a fuse right on the terminal. I looked at the recommended fuse block:
https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Syst...9T6WYS2P92F0DN (no fuse included).

That's when I got confused. I have no idea what size fuse to buy and they're not cheap (about $17 each).

If anyone can point me to the info I need to determine the correct fuse size I'd appreciate it.

[Larry C Hanson]

Hello Group,

Thought you might be interested in the battery installation
on my '78 Trillium 1300. There is a fuse in the positive lead
right at the battery terminal as in the photo. The trailer has
a 600W Exeltech sine wave inverter that powers a juicer and
coffee grinder, etc. I picked the 80A fuse as the inverter will
draw 50A+ at times. You will also notice another small inline
fuse that is part of the circuit for the 1.5A Battery Tender that
is used to keep the battery topped off when the trailer is stored.
The battery is a Trojan SCS225 that has served well for 8 years.
The frame for the box was fabricated from aluminum angle
bolted together and through. The strap holds the whole thing,
box and battery to the frame bolted to the tongue.


Keep on camping, Larry H

[Wayne Collins]

As I think about how my battery fits inside the box, it is loose in there.
But the lid sits down on the corners of the battery, so the strap on the outside does hold it down, but would not prevent movement side to side.
I think one reason for the box is to keep dirt and moisture off. Those can build up and make a path for electrons to travel between the + and - terminals and discharge the battery. So, be sure the + post is well insulated.

[Franswa]

the OP situation could be made workable and very much safe by simply finding a right sized plastic tub to cover the battery (accidental short and dirt issue solved)

the problem I had with battery boxes is the lids are shaped/sized to accomodate very large wires and connectors....making them taller than they have to be for our applications....then you have to secure the box externally meaning space between them (more space lost)....

In cases like that I find it easier, cheaper and better to make my own.....my battery box is made out of 3/4" material, 1/4" lid...it's an axact fit (no movement inside) and it's secured to the floor by 4 screws (through the lino and subfloor).....I find those battery terminal fuses quite expensive so I installed a regular fuse holder just outside the box (20A)

lots of ways to skin a cat........B17CB right side dinette seat area

[gordon2]

Originally Posted by Franswa

.....I find those battery terminal fuses quite expensive so I installed a regular fuse holder just outside the box (20A...

On a scale of 1-100 with 1 being very dangerous and 100 being very safe, I would say that the on-terminal fuses are a 94, and your inline fuse as shown is a 93. I would be fine with it if it were my rig and yes, it is quite a bit cheaper.

If I recall right you had a discussion about venting those batteries inside the living space. Perhaps its worth mentioning again briefly in this thread.

(And drat, I have already violated my self-imposed and temporary 1000 post limit.)

[Raz]

Originally Posted by 40bpm

If anyone can point me to the info I need to determine the correct fuse size I'd appreciate it.

Fuses protect wires and not much else because they are very slow. In general the size of the wire, assuming it was sized properly, determines the size of the fuse. With out knowing your set up it is impossible to recommend a fuse value.

I have a group 24 battery connected with 12 gauge wire, protected by a 20 amp fuse. I used one of these.

http://https://www.amazon.com/420554...s=In+line+fuse

It and 5 fuses cost about $10. Good luck, Raz

[gordon2]

Originally Posted by Raz

Fuses protect wires and not much else because they are very slow. ...

That almost sounds like a recommendation for a surge suppressor.

Drat, now I am two over my self-imposed and temporary 1,000 post limit!!!
Why can't I stop???

[Franswa]

I inherited my two batts vented inside the trailer from my PO....used them that way for a couple of years....and I'm still alive...(Like most boaters I had unvented batteries in boats for YEARS before that)

when I relocated the batteries to the opposite side of the trailer I added an outside vent...I may want to sell this trailer one day

[40bpm]

Originally Posted by Raz

Fuses protect wires and not much else because they are very slow. In general the size of the wire, assuming it was sized properly, determines the size of the fuse. With out knowing your set up it is impossible to recommend a fuse value.

I have a group 24 battery connected with 12 gauge wire, protected by a 20 amp fuse. I used one of these.

http://https://www.amazon.com/420554...s=In+line+fuse

It and 5 fuses cost about $10. Good luck, Raz

Thanks Raz. Exactly what I needed. My '02 Bigfoot 17' has very simple 12 volt systems so I doubt it will draw much current. The 20amp fuse is probably just right. The inline fuse you referenced is a good price.