Scamp 16 good closet mods wanted

[RogerDat]

We purchased a Scamp 16 with front bath and closet and am trying to figure out how to get the best use out of that front closet. Door is much narrower than interior so bins I used for clothes under table of 13 ft do not fit through the door. Even though they would fit inside.

Lot of threads on making better use of the side closet of the Scamp 13 ft. but that door opening is nearly as wide as the closet. In the 16 the door is narrower. My guess is more cabinet face is to have more structural strength supporting the front corner. .

Goal for the closet is mostly clothes, towels, shoes, maybe toiletries and cosmetics case type stuff. I will be looking for some of the stacking baskets to see if they are a possibility. Maybe bins if I can find some thin enough to fit through door. Clothes are not accessed all that often so stacking plastic bins might work.

I am also wondering where folks store the items used to set up camp? In the Scamp 13 with front couch there was a storage area under the couch right by the front door that worked well for that. Leveling blocks, extension cords, wheel chocks, dog tie out, stakes for rain fly etc.

Are the wire shelves in the overhead and some kitchen cupboards stock or an add-on? Seem like it would be a tight fit to get them out if I wanted to remove one or two. I use small plastic bins to keep things such as bug spray, sun screen, seasonings and spices from "migrating" as I go down the road.

Actually any good storage solutions and arrangements people have for Scamp 16 ft with the front bath & closet, and a side dinette would be welcome.

[RogerDat]

I should mention that the rear dinette/bed has been modified to be a U shaped couch or bed but not a dinette. Still have the original table but the couch without table is nice arrangement. Can still lay down for a nap but is more open and makes the overhead storage more accessible.

In order to have the couch set up during the day we lose the space under the bed for storage. Hoping the other areas can pick up the three bins of clothes we used to store under the bed. Lord knows it was getting harder every year to get down and pull those out. Leading to quandaries such as should I just be cold or get down there and dig out a long sleeve shirt :-) Hoping front closet will be more "user friendly" location.

[AC0GV]

Originally Posted by RogerDat

We purchased a Scamp 16 with front bath and closet and am trying to figure out how to get the best use out of that front closet. Door is much narrower than interior so bins I used for clothes under table of 13 ft do not fit through the door. Even though they would fit inside.

I cut patterns of card board first because the size of shelf changes with elevation and then cut shelves of half inch plywood. I used PVC pipe to hold them up and added edge bracing of shelf brackets to prevent bowing.

[theresa p]

Hey Ken--your shelves look great!



Another idea might be for flexible bins---these can be bought or sewn. The fabric flexibility is the key to squeezing them into spaces that hard bins cannot.


Another idea would be fabric bags, with pull string closures. I sewed my own, and marked on the outside what it holds.

[RogerDat]

I too like your shelves Ken. The soft sided bins or bags are also a good idea. Possibly as something to stow things in on the shelves.

I hadn't considered that the shelf sizes would change but I can see it is true. The big advantage the shelves offer is then plastic bins or baskets or cloth bins can be slid to the left or right on the shelf leaving the center for things used most often.

Are those shelves just resting on the couplings that join each section of PVC or are there "T" fittings under each shelf with a piece of PVC going front to back under the shelf edges (left & right sides)

I took home economics and in theory should know how to sew but reality is.... I mostly recall do NOT confuse tsp and tbl when measuring salt for chocolate mousse, you will not get a good grade on that dish. I also recall that a sewing machine can not punch a needle through a pencil so it therefor should not be able to go through a finger bone. :-) I always like to know the capabilities of power equipment I'm going to use.

I have used canvas bags for decades to haul camping gear, knowing what each different bag holds makes life easier for sure. However I'm pretty sure my old canvas pack sacks are not going to pass muster with my dear wife for use in that closet. Something to do with 30 years of wear and tear makes them less appealing.... for her, not me. I figure they fit my needs like an old pair of boots. But I don't think she likes my old boots much either come to think of it.

[theresa p]

Roger---your home ec trip down memory lane gave me the best laugh I've had in a while! Thanks!!!

[AC0GV]

Originally Posted by RogerDat

Are those shelves just resting on the couplings that join each section of PVC or are there "T" fittings under each shelf with a piece of PVC going front to back under the shelf edges (left & right sides)

Nothing is attached. Shelves a wedged in place and setting on the couplings.
I cut the pipes to fit the place that the shelves were tight in the closet.

[RogerDat]

Originally Posted by AC0GV

Nothing is attached. Shelves a wedged in place and setting on the couplings.
I cut the pipes to fit the place that the shelves were tight in the closet.

That seems smart, as long as all the vertical pvc pieces are cut to same length then the shelf that rests on the coupling will sit solid and level. T couplings and pvc side rails seem like they would be harder to get all in place and lined up.

I thought I had some 1/2 inch plywood in the shed, too bad it was only 3/8 inch will probably have to take out a home equity loan to buy a sheet of plywood at todays prices. But I like the way it can look good and isn't too hard of a project, also there is some wiring back of that closet and the ability to take shelf back apart to access back of closet has some appeal.

[AC0GV]

Originally Posted by RogerDat

in the shed, too bad it was only 3/8 inch will probably have to take out a home equity loan to buy a sheet of plywood at todays prices.

My plywood came from Menards where thicknesses are all "nominal". It was a little on the thin side and was an all day project. Lots of trial and many errors. I made most of the errors on the card board, much like Frank Lloyd Wright started students on the then cheap plywood before they got to use the good woods.

[DaveWI]

I also have Scamp 16‘ and elected to turn it into storage space. I built an inexpensive PVC frame and put a piece of thin fiberboard on top. Then I bought two 24” Sterilite cabinets to mount on top. It gives me a lot of storage space and I secure them for travel with Velcro straps

[Stephen Migotsky]

Ooops. I need another cup of coffee. You got sterilite bins.
I've got the same need.

[DaveWI]

They come in all sizes and are stackable. Good luck!

[Embalina]

I'm in the same boat, but with a 13' Scamp.

Right now I have a hanging shoe/closet organizer thing hanging from the closet rod but it's a solution upon which I need to improve. I saw one guy who made a PVC skeleton frame for inside his closet; however, the various angles, joints and pieces to make it work with the Scamp closet, with its curved wall, would drive me bonkers.

Ken's seems like an interesting option!

[Embalina]

Hey Ken

Wow, I love your closet! I would like to do the same thing. I wonder if you have pictures somewhere to show how you've got these arranged and how everything is held in place. (And here I thought my search for closet solutions was over!)

[DaveWI]

I hold them in place with 2” Velcro straps around the PVC frame. You should size your stackable bins to the size of your closet. I have a 16’ Scamp so yours will be a bit different. You can buy the straps on Amazon. Good luck.👍

[RogerDat]

Found some bins that will just fit side by side. That closet gets complicated fast.

Wiring to the shower drain pump switch and light, plus plumbing lines run up one side. Opening of door is about 10 inches off the floor. Makes bottom shelf need to be about 18 inches high in order to be able to get things under the first shelf.

The shower faucet connections intrude into closet and limit depth and width where the plumbing lines come up and connect. I can cut shelves to allow things to pass through but it just adds to the complexity of fitting shelves to curved walls.

In addition to some of the plastic bins I found that were about 17x12.5x7 so the 7 inch depth allows bin to be turned sideways to fit through 10 inch door opening. Really tight on the width of closet which is only 25 inches but it does make the containers fit snug. Two will be too wide once I get to height of shower faucet. I also picked up a cloth bin at 10 inches wide that may fit, just to try or maybe put in the overhead cupboard.

I also had a bit of a road block. When I took trailer to be weighed for Michigan title there was a bottle of black water tank deodorant in the wet bath, tucked behind the toilet. It fell over and leaked into shower pan. The fumes from that burned the eyes in about 10 seconds on entry to trailer.

Getting ceiling vent open and on, windows open, and adding fan at door finally made it possible to run some water in the shower to wash the chemicals down the drain. Took another day and wiping up the whole shower in short stints based on how long I could hold my breath before I could even measure the closet.

The blue chemical didn't stain thank goodness but that stuff is really harsh and the fumes in a hot trailer gave every indication of being dangerous to breath. Burning eyes, nose burning and running even without breathing. N95 mask helps with nose and throat but without sealed goggles it is still too harsh an atmosphere to be in.

[Embalina]

Originally Posted by DaveHoffman

I have a 16’ Scamp so yours will be a bit different.

Ah yes, that would explain why your closet is rectangular while mine has only one right angle and only two straight walls. It's the curved wall with multiple angle issues that make my closet a real puzzle!