Scamp bunk mount dimensions & window ? - Fiberglass RV


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 08-19-2012, 10:44 PM   #1
Moderator
 
Name: RogerDat
Trailer: 77 Scamp 13
Michigan
Posts: 3,492
Scamp bunk mount dimensions & window ?

The bunk mount on my scamp 13 is shot. I went to make a template of the original before removing it and it has totally wonky dimensions. One end is half as deep as the other and it's offset in relation to the center of the front window. With a 1" x 2" ensolite patch at one end. That combined with a rather poor saw cut on the hinge side, and the fact that hinge side does not appear to be straight across front makes me think sometime in the last 35 years it may have been re-done by a PO.

Can anyone provide some measurement of how deep their wood mounting shelf is at the center? And if the ends are cut off to equal size. And is it fairly centered on the front window?

I'm going out in the morning to do some more checking of the distance off the front wall with a plumb level but to my eye the thing does not appear to run straight across the front. With the offset being away from the side with the end cut short and the patched ensolite. I really looks as if the wood shape would be "even" if it was 2 inches longer and filled the patched ensolite area.

On the windows do the prop open windows just pull out sideways if the screw in the center of the hinge is removed? I can just try it but figured it's always good to ask those who may have gone down that road before. Especially since the screw in the center of the hinge is rusted steel which seems a odd choice for "stock" in an aluminum window.
__________________

RogerDat is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-19-2012, 11:06 PM   #2
Senior Member
 
Roy in TO's Avatar
 
Name: Roy
Trailer: 1972 boler American and 1979 Trillium 4500
Ontario
Posts: 5,026
Roger,
How does the rear table attach in the 77 Scamp? I believe the early models were like my boler American where the wood was the same pattern at front and rear windows.
I'm not sure when they changed from the interlocking rails to the hinged table/bed on the rear dinette.
__________________

Roy in TO is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-20-2012, 08:05 AM   #3
Moderator
 
Name: RogerDat
Trailer: 77 Scamp 13
Michigan
Posts: 3,492
Rear table is hinged off of the wall attached with a bar to drop down and metal brackets for tabs on table to lock into when up as a table. I think there is a plywood panel under the ensolite that the hardware screws into.

Front bunk mount is a 1 inch thick plywood shelf tabbed into the fiberglass which the top bunk hinges screw into.
RogerDat is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-20-2012, 08:16 AM   #4
Senior Member
 
Roy in TO's Avatar
 
Name: Roy
Trailer: 1972 boler American and 1979 Trillium 4500
Ontario
Posts: 5,026
Quote:
Originally Posted by RogerDat View Post
Front bunk mount is a 1 inch thick plywood shelf tabbed into the fiberglass which the top bunk hinges screw into.
That might be the key to determining if it was a previous mod. The only other place I might think that Scamp used plywood rather than OSB might be where the benches are tabbed in.
Maybe another Scamp owner of that era can pipe in.
Roy in TO is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-20-2012, 08:36 AM   #5
Senior Member
 
floyd's Avatar
 
Name: Floyd
Trailer: 2004 13 ft Scamp Custom Deluxe
IllAnnoy
Posts: 7,727
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by Roy in TO View Post
That might be the key to determining if it was a previous mod. The only other place I might think that Scamp used plywood rather than OSB might be where the benches are tabbed in.
Maybe another Scamp owner of that era can pipe in.
Scamp wasn't using OSB in 1977. In fact OSB was first produced in 1978 as a derivative of waferboard. The 1977 Scamp would be originally made using plywood.
floyd is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-20-2012, 10:51 AM   #6
Senior Member
 
Roy in TO's Avatar
 
Name: Roy
Trailer: 1972 boler American and 1979 Trillium 4500
Ontario
Posts: 5,026
Good man Floyd!
I know my boler American that Evelands started with - had a plywood floor, plywood bench supports and press wood (wafer board?) at the front and rear windows.
Narrowing this info down will help people confirm the years of trailers or mods. At one time I had a pretty good idea by the windows on Scamps.
Roy in TO is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-21-2012, 01:13 PM   #7
Moderator
 
Name: RogerDat
Trailer: 77 Scamp 13
Michigan
Posts: 3,492
Ok it's official that is one crooked bunk mount. Mount is 1 1/2 inches from wall for one hinge, 2 1/2 for the other. One end is over an inch deeper than the other end. I think what I am really looking for is:
  1. How deep is mount at hinge supposed to be. (distance from wall to mount edge)
  2. How far from side wall is each hinge supposed to be. (distance from closest side wall in straight line)
Given those two I can make bunk mount that is even and centered that will allow mounting hinges so bunk drops correctly as couch back and comes out over bunk support poles.

Mount is 1/2 inch thick, I expected 3/4 or 1 inch and wonder if 1/2 is stock or just what PO had around.

If anyone knows the height of bunk mount above couch fiberglass seat that would be good too. I can use bunk supports and work it out but nice to have something to check my calculations against.
RogerDat is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-21-2012, 02:24 PM   #8
Moderator
 
Name: RogerDat
Trailer: 77 Scamp 13
Michigan
Posts: 3,492
Overview image: note the offset to the right and the narrowing from right to left. As well as almost no FG tabbing connected to wood on the top, almost all of the connection was on the bottom. In the close ups you can see the wood does not touch the wall at several locations. Might even spot the "wandering" saw cut along the front edge.



This is close up of left side:


This is close up of right side: Note the absence of any FG actually attached to wood. This was how it was I removed nothing but the ensolite from the wood.
RogerDat is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-21-2012, 02:47 PM   #9
Moderator
 
Name: RogerDat
Trailer: 77 Scamp 13
Michigan
Posts: 3,492
Making a curved template

This is a cardboard template being made, if anyone can provide the dimensions for hinge depth and distance from wall I can use them to establish center and cut down straight side of template to that depth.

What your seeing is an air hose being used to follow the curve of the trailer so I can take a straight squared piece of cardboard and trace the hose to reproduce the matching curve. Have to do a couple of passes, the first one only gets the corners of the template rounded enough to move cardboard closer to the wall so hose will bridge the gap. I did this before I removed the existing mount so I would have something to rest it on and clamp to.

RogerDat is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-21-2012, 02:56 PM   #10
Senior Member
 
Roy in TO's Avatar
 
Name: Roy
Trailer: 1972 boler American and 1979 Trillium 4500
Ontario
Posts: 5,026
Roger,

Great idea using a hose to make a template!!! I have to remember that one.
All you really need is a measurement of the depth from the center of the window.
With your skills I'm confident you know how to center and square the rest.
Roy in TO is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-21-2012, 03:26 PM   #11
Moderator
 
Name: RogerDat
Trailer: 77 Scamp 13
Michigan
Posts: 3,492
Quote:
Originally Posted by Roy in TO View Post
Roger,
Great idea using a hose to make a template!!! I have to remember that one.
All you really need is a measurement of the depth from the center of the window.
With your skills I'm confident you know how to center and square the rest.
Thank you, I posted that picture in hopes it might be of use to someone sometime.

Are the window locations fairly consistent? That is one reason I was thinking I should use the hinge depth, but your probably right I could work from depth at center of window.

In the earlier pictures you can see how the old mount was way offset to the right of the center of the window.

I tentatively plan to have new mount span from seam to seam of the ensolite piece under the window. Probably taking the piece of ensolite that was on the old bunk mount and patching the right side. I'll just paint the new mount white after tabbing in or cover with some sort of white panel from the home improvement store.

Hoping that by laying a piece of ensolite bigger than the area to be patched over the wall and cutting both patch and wall ensolite at same time my patch will have seams that are very thin. Works pretty good for carpet patches. May blend in with a bit of caulk or touch up the black edges with white paint. Wonder if anyone else has tried this and if it worked ok?

Or I could just run the new mount to cover the whole "slot", still have to paint it, no ensolite to cover it with since it will certainly NOT match the piece I took off the old mount.

Welcome any opinions on fit to ensolite cut or center on window and patch "extra" slot in the ensolite. Of course in the end I will do it the way DW thinks is best.
RogerDat is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-21-2012, 04:30 PM   #12
Senior Member
 
Roy in TO's Avatar
 
Name: Roy
Trailer: 1972 boler American and 1979 Trillium 4500
Ontario
Posts: 5,026
Quote:
Originally Posted by RogerDat View Post
Are the window locations fairly consistent?
From year to year and plant to plant, perhaps, there is no guarentee. Are all women or men the same?

Quote:
Originally Posted by RogerDat View Post
That is one reason I was thinking I should use the hinge depth
As I said before, you are a smart man. Someone once told me, measure twice, cut once. And when I messed it up, they always said: Don't worry only one side is too long (or short).

Quote:
Originally Posted by RogerDat View Post
Welcome any opinions on fit to ensolite cut or center on window and patch "extra" slot in the ensolite.
Now is a good time to tinker with tests. The location should be hidden when the bunk is both up and down during normal use. My gut says, grab a small piece from behind a cabinet, give somewhere between 1/8 and 3/8" gap and try to level the height. latex caulk. wet soapy sponge dap to match texture and wait for it to set.

Quote:
Originally Posted by RogerDat View Post
Of course in the end I will do it the way DW thinks is best
I wish I learnt that 30 years ago and can still accept it today.
Roy in TO is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-21-2012, 05:15 PM   #13
Moderator
 
Name: RogerDat
Trailer: 77 Scamp 13
Michigan
Posts: 3,492
Quote:
Originally Posted by Roy in TO View Post
....Now is a good time to tinker with tests. The location should be hidden when the bunk is both up and down during normal use. My gut says, grab a small piece from behind a cabinet, give somewhere between 1/8 and 3/8" gap and try to level the height. latex caulk. wet soapy sponge dap to match texture and wait for it to set.
.....
I may just try that, right now I have the original off and since it's just us two I figured can do without couch back for a bit and still use camper. Can put some leftover seam tape on the empty slot to "make pretty" for the time being.

Hopefully someone with a Scamp 13 will post their bunk mount measurements or I'll have to see if someone at the Michigan rally in Sept has one I can measure.
RogerDat is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-22-2012, 10:09 AM   #14
Senior Member
 
Name: Eddie
Trailer: 2014 Escape 21, Lil Joe
Florida
Posts: 1,742
Measurements

Roger
I am working on a mid 80's 13 and it is pulled apart and easy for me to measure.
The wood is 1/2" covered with ensolite. I think I would replace with 3/4" and just paint it white when finished.
41 1/8" wide.
2" deep on each end.
3 1/2 deep in center.
3 3/4" from top of board to fiberglass window opening.
31 3/8 between the inside of the hinges.

I would use West Sys. Six 10 epoxy filler to first attach the wood to the wall and fill gaps. ( Comes in a calk gun tube.) Then glass in with 2" glass tape. May even add some 45 deg. bracing blocks for extra support under the shelf if you really plan to use the bunk.

Eddie

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs...classNum=50225
Eddie Longest is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-22-2012, 11:02 AM   #15
Moderator
 
Name: RogerDat
Trailer: 77 Scamp 13
Michigan
Posts: 3,492
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eddie Longest View Post
Roger
I am working on a mid 80's 13 and it is pulled apart and easy for me to measure.
The wood is 1/2" covered with ensolite. I think I would replace with 3/4" and just paint it white when finished.
41 1/8" wide.
2" deep on each end.
3 1/2 deep in center.
3 3/4" from top of board to fiberglass window opening.
31 3/8 between the inside of the hinges.

I would use West Sys. Six 10 epoxy filler to first attach the wood to the wall and fill gaps. ( Comes in a calk gun tube.) Then glass in with 2" glass tape. May even add some 45 deg. bracing blocks for extra support under the shelf if you really plan to use the bunk.

Eddie

WEST SYSTEM Six10™ Thickened Epoxy Adhesive at West Marine
Thank you so much!

Is your mount centered under the window? So the 3 1/2" deep at center would be center of mount and center of window (or close to it).

I had planned on using the bunk post locking tab height as the "top" of the mount height because in effect the top bunk rests on both. But it is good to have that window opening to mount measure as a double check.

I'll have to check out the local marine store to see if I can pick up a tube of that epoxy at a decent price.

Judging from your measurement my 1 1/2" at one end and 2 3/4" at the other was not "stock"
RogerDat is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-23-2012, 10:46 PM   #16
Member
 
Jeff Richardson's Avatar
 
Name: Jeff
Trailer: 1977 13-foot Scamp
Washington
Posts: 71
Before I cut my ugly and rotten bunk mount off last week I took some pictures with a tape measure showing dimensions should I ever want to install a new piece of plywood.

I kind of like the front couch with out the back on. I like the extra width. I may buy some large pillows to provide back support when sitting.

I know some people put the bunk up to use as a shelf. I don't miss it.

I hope these dimensions will be helpful. They are pretty much indentical to what Eddie posted.

Jeff
Attached Thumbnails
IMG_8010a.jpg   IMG_8012a.jpg  

IMG_8013a.jpg   IMG_8015a.jpg  

IMG_8016a.jpg  
Jeff Richardson is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-24-2012, 10:35 PM   #17
Moderator
 
Name: RogerDat
Trailer: 77 Scamp 13
Michigan
Posts: 3,492
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff Richardson View Post
Before I cut my ugly and rotten bunk mount off last week I took some pictures with a tape measure showing dimensions should I ever want to install a new piece of plywood.

I kind of like the front couch with out the back on. I like the extra width. I may buy some large pillows to provide back support when sitting.

I know some people put the bunk up to use as a shelf. I don't miss it.

I hope these dimensions will be helpful. They are pretty much indentical to what Eddie posted.

Jeff
Yes thanks, always good to get confirmation. And the pictures clarify something that had been bugging me.

The bunk mount is positioned so that it goes past the right vertical seam. So it is offset to the right relative to the ensolite.

I'm going to go without the bunk for a bit, I would rather have the larger couch/storage spot for clothes containers and such. Will replace the mount eventually but may take the couch out and do some figuring and see what I might want to change first. (should replace screws and check wood of couch mounting anyway).

I'm thinking that I might be able to mount a vertical panel from under the stock bunk mount and build two box seats so I would have a front dinette. Want to look at the scamp swing down table mount to see if I could mount that to vertical panel.

What I'm shooting for is to have it so dinette could drop down and be a couch/bed just as the rear dinette drops and is the bed. I'm thinking that I want the table vertical panel to not prevent bunk attachement or be easily removable. So for wife and I we have table or couch, if the one son with two kids borrows the camper we can just put the bunk in, the daughter with one kid can drop the table and sleep three.

But then sometimes my brilliant ideas turn out to be a PITA so I don't do them.
RogerDat is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-12-2012, 06:08 PM   #18
Junior Member
 
Trailer: Used to own a 2001 Scamp 16
Georgia
Posts: 29
2001 Scamp 16 rotten support

I too have the rotten support. As you can see, I had to take the OSB out piece by piece. It left a fiberglass "lip" that will allow me to fit the new piece of 3/4 plywood in the void. Is there a need to bond it to the fiberglass as well as attach with screws?
Attached Thumbnails
support (1).JPG   support (2).JPG  

Henry N is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-04-2013, 08:17 PM   #19
Moderator
 
Name: RogerDat
Trailer: 77 Scamp 13
Michigan
Posts: 3,492
replacing the front bunk mount

Well the bunk mount is in and I have started fiberglass. I used Bondo Glass to "bed" the edge of the board to the wall and fill in voids, I think the glue suggested would have been easier but would require 3 days to finish off gassing so I went with the Bondo with short glass fibers, have to work fast but it does the job and can have fiberglass applied the next morning.

My next question is how many layers of resin and cloth are needed? Right now I have two un the underside, three on the top side. Started with 4 inch and then reduced each strip by 1 inch in width. 4, then 3, then 2 to stagger the edges.

Just not sure if I have enough layers already or should start back over with 4 inch.

Here is picture of new mount clamped deep clamps from harbor freight $6 were just big enough. I have small blocks cut to space the mount from the window, those are just taped in place until I got the first layer of fiberglass on the bottom edge.

RogerDat is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-04-2013, 08:22 PM   #20
Senior Member
 
Donna D.'s Avatar
 
Name: Donna D
Trailer: Escape 5.0 TA, 2014
Oregon
Posts: 25,144
Roger, if you EVER think you'll use that upper bunk for a human sleeping solution... I'd think MORE is better. Can you even imagine being the person on the bottom if the upper bunk failed? YEOW!
__________________

__________________
Donna D.
Ten Forward - 2014 Escape 5.0 TA
Double Yolk - 1988 16' Scamp Deluxe
Donna D. is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
scamp


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Question re Eggcamper dimensions, possibly adding a bunk songsparrow Care and Feeding of Molded Fiberglass Trailers 11 02-03-2012 04:36 PM
CT-13 Main Bunk bed hinge dimensions djtriceflt Problem Solving | Owners Helping Owners 20 11-09-2011 08:49 AM
Scamp & Front Bunk Beds jhornsby Problem Solving | Owners Helping Owners 3 08-31-2007 04:20 PM
Window AC Mount Bonnie Problem Solving | Owners Helping Owners 5 08-25-2007 03:49 PM
Window Dimensions Dennis Kelderman Care and Feeding of Molded Fiberglass Trailers 1 06-09-2007 06:38 PM

» Upcoming Events
No events scheduled in
the next 465 days.
» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 08:07 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
×