Scamp Dinette Table thickness?

[Bill Nolen]

I am finally getting to the point where I need to make a table for the rear dinette For my 1978 13" scamp.

Scamp back end bed surface 10-28-15.jpg Views: 42 Size: 173.5 KB ID: 90153" style="margin: 2px" />

I would appreciate if is some owner of a Scamp would tell me what is the thickness of the plywood used for their table. I have a custom made mattress that I plan on using full time, but who know what changes the future might bring!

Thank you,

Bill

[floyd]

Originally Posted by Bill Nolen

I am finally getting to the point where I need to make a table for the rear dinette For my 1978 13" scamp.

Attachment 90153

I would appreciate if is some owner of a Scamp would tell me what is the thickness of the plywood used for their table. I have a custom made mattress that I plan on using full time, but who know what changes the future might bring!

Thank you,

Bill

3/4" is the thickness required to make a smooth transition to the fiberglass. I recent made a full time bed in Scamp 13. I bought a
sheet of epoxy coated 3/4" furniture grade plywood for the purpose.
It is as smooth as silk on both sides. It is also rigid enough that it will not warp with use. The smoothness is a real advantage even underneath where you might store bedding and camping stuff.
Notice also that it was cut to length to be even with the cabinet and not just to the point where the 45 degree angle starts.

[Dennis mn]

Last year, I made a new table for my Scamp from 3/4" Cherry Plywood. The original Scamp table measured the same!

[Kai in Seattle]

The unbeveled front edge looks like you use it for a bed only--kind of tight to squeeze through if it were set up as a dinette?
We're thinking along similar lines for our amerigo...easier than loose planks and has the conversion possibility if ever wanted. Thanks for measurement of thickness and recommendation of material. Good to know.

[David B.]

Originally Posted by Kai in Seattle

The unbeveled front edge looks like you use it for a bed only--kind of tight to squeeze through if it were set up as a dinette?
We're thinking along similar lines for our amerigo...easier than loose planks and has the conversion possibility if ever wanted. Thanks for measurement of thickness and recommendation of material. Good to know.

I had hinged the table to use it in the half position when it was just the two of us, as this gave us a much more user friendly and comfortable area, and opened up fully when we had guests. Drawer slides supported the fully opened table top........ just another option to consider.
Dave & Paula

[Bill Nolen]

Thanks everyone for the replies and comments.

Floyd, where did you find epoxy coated plywood? And, if you don't mind me asking...how much did a sheet cost? My budget is shocking limited!

Dennis, since I plan on keeping the bed down full time do you think that leaving "ears" at the front of the sheet of plywood, to fill the open gap on each side, would be of any benefit? just a thought...

Kai, loose planks of wood could be troublesome I agree. However I once made a "roll" of wood planks (held together with canvas strips) to bridge a gap so I could have a bunk in a tiny sailboat. It worked OK, although the "roll" ended up larger than my storage space!

Dave, that is a great idea on making your dinette table much more user friendly!

Thanks again,


Bill

[Dennis mn]

Originally Posted by Bill Nolen

Thanks everyone for the replies and comments.



Dennis, since I plan on keeping the bed down full time do you think that leaving "ears" at the front of the sheet of plywood, to fill the open gap on each side, would be of any benefit? just a thought...

Bill

I don't think that clipping the corners of the plywood matters. I probably would not.

Unllke you, we almost never use the dinette as a bed. I made the table about 6" shorter to make it easier to enter the dinette. I do carry the "drop" in my trailer to extend the table if I do need to use the dinette as a bed. I did not clip the corners of that board.

[Bill Nolen]

Thanks Dennis!

I guess tomorrow I'll go to Lowe's or Home Depot and see whether or not it would be wise to buy a full 4' X 8' of good cabinet plywood, or just buy a half 4' X 4' sheet of crappy plywood!

The crappy plywood always take a lot of sanding and painting, if it is to be visible. However, since only the exposed front edge will be visible...maybe it wouldn't matter?

Of course, if I wasn't so lazy I could add a hardwood trim strip on the exposed plywood edge!

Bill

[Kai in Seattle]

Hi, all, my reaction to the centrally-hinged table is, woo hoo! Super idea! YES, the table would be easier than the boards...and yet, yes, making a kind of packet out of boards could make dealing with them easier...


We're getting the trailer lifted off the frame Saturday, and the frame hauled to Machinists, Inc. near Seattle for a thorough checking-over, a reinforced brace or two added, sandblasting, painting, and then brought back and the trailer hoisted back on. Ahh, the sweet feeling that the job Paul left hasn't entirely left him! They seem to be happy for Paul and very interested in his little retirement project!

[Glenn Baglo]

I cut the table in my tent trailer to 1/3 and 2/3 and used a piano hinge so that the 1/3 side could be lifted ( to make it easier to get to the back bench ).
Didn't work worth crap. The hinge ran the full length of the table and still the 1/3 side sagged. You wouldn't dare lean your elbows on that side of the table for fear of eating your soup off your lap.

[floyd]

Originally Posted by Kai in Seattle

The unbeveled front edge looks like you use it for a bed only--kind of tight to squeeze through if it were set up as a dinette?
We're thinking along similar lines for our amerigo...easier than loose planks and has the conversion possibility if ever wanted. Thanks for measurement of thickness and recommendation of material. Good to know.

That is correct, I made it into a permanent bed with a two stage memory foam mattress. That is what I read was what the OP was asking about.
The Epoxy coating is smooth and moisture resistant (top and bottom)
My sister wanted to make space underneath for two small dogs so having a smooth surface underneath with no hardware made it safer and more comfy for them.

[floyd]

Originally Posted by Bill Nolen

Thanks everyone for the replies and comments.

Floyd, where did you find epoxy coated plywood? And, if you don't mind me asking...how much did a sheet cost? My budget is shocking limited!

Dennis, since I plan on keeping the bed down full time do you think that leaving "ears" at the front of the sheet of plywood, to fill the open gap on each side, would be of any benefit? just a thought...

Kai, loose planks of wood could be troublesome I agree. However I once made a "roll" of wood planks (held together with canvas strips) to bridge a gap so I could have a bunk in a tiny sailboat. It worked OK, although the "roll" ended up larger than my storage space!

Dave, that is a great idea on making your dinette table much more user friendly!

Thanks again,


Bill

Big box hardware store (Menard"s) Just under $40.
I have enough left over to do it again.
I have inthe past cut the front angle to fill in that small space but it just seemed to be a waste of effort with no real benefit.
This is a poor picture but it shows the matress in place with only its zip cover...

[floyd]

Originally Posted by Bill Nolen

Thanks Dennis!

I guess tomorrow I'll go to Lowe's or Home Depot and see whether or not it would be wise to buy a full 4' X 8' of good cabinet plywood, or just buy a half 4' X 4' sheet of crappy plywood!

The crappy plywood always take a lot of sanding and painting, if it is to be visible. However, since only the exposed front edge will be visible...maybe it wouldn't matter?

Of course, if I wasn't so lazy I could add a hardwood trim strip on the exposed plywood edge!

Bill

Don't buy construction grade plywood, there are not enough plies or glue quality for it to bridge 30" without eventually warping.
You could of course buy a half sheet of cabinet grade plywood.
When I made my 20"X 30" table I added braces underneath to insure stiffness but I don't think they would be needed on a larger table.

[Bill Nolen]

Floyd, thank you very for responding to my many questions!

I will make an effort to find a better quality of plywood for the bed support. I have never seen epoxy coated plywood at Lowe's or Home Depot. But I may have missed it.

There are several large local owned lumber yards in Oklahoma City. I'll just have to do more checking.

The old piece of 3/4-inch of plywood that I had on hand, and thought about using, had been out in the rain just too many times, and had a large warp along one edge. So that goes into my scrap pile. Well, that's was were it has been for over a year!

Thanks again,

Bill

[Kai in Seattle]

Bill Nolan--original photo up top here, lovely, just lovely inside of your 1978 Scamp! A goal to set for our amerigo down the road--so to speak.


Glenn Baglo, sorry it didn't work well; does encourage me to forge on in spite of things that aren't working well...good photos.


floyd, cabinet grade ply...good idea! We found where to buy a new "ring" for the table to attach it to the wall and make it adjustable--well, ring and leg...but were wondering what material would be best. CABINET grade ply. OK!

[Bill Nolen]

I'd like to thank each of you that replied to my request for help.

After looking for good cabinet making 3/4-inch plywood, i did find a 4' by 4' sheet that was not very costly...about $25.00, and a little heavy.

However, i could hear the 1" by 4" by 8' lumber calling me to at leae come and look at it!.

In the end I bought 6 pieces of 1" by 4" lumber and made a plank bed support! Cost was less than $8.00! I only used four pieces of the lumber.

Not the wisest move should I ever want to use the dinette area for a dinette, and need a table. But, for now, it does provide me with a cheap bed support. Only time will tell if it will warp...but at that price that will not be a great loss.



Bill

[Zennifer]

Nice. Our home bed is supported on slats much like that! Very comfortable

[Bill Nolen]

Originally Posted by Zennifer

Nice. Our home bed is supported on slats much like that! Very comfortable

Thanks Zennifer! I'm hoping that all those slats will hold up my considerable weight!

Bill

[scottkolmankeen]

Originally Posted by David B.

I had hinged the table to use it in the half position when it was just the two of us, as this gave us a much more user friendly and comfortable area, and opened up fully when we had guests. Drawer slides supported the fully opened table top........ just another option to consider.
Dave & Paula

Dave & Paula - I LOVE the drawer slide idea! I'm working on a tabletop/bed redo, and this is exactly what I was looking for!

[David B.]

Originally Posted by scottkolmankeen

Dave & Paula - I LOVE the drawer slide idea! I'm working on a tabletop/bed redo, and this is exactly what I was looking for!

Scott, just to let you know, the drawer slides are mounted backwards so as it slides out the "step downs" of each section will stay in the same plane as the table top. I have seen others that have used triangular wood slides to support the extended table top.....just another option. Also I did not cut the table top exactly in half, as that would leave the small table a little too small for my taste, so one the base section is a little larger than the sections that folds back on it, leaving a few inches of a step down near the window, but that works out great for the salt/pepper etc. Best of luck with your project.
Dave & Paula