Scamp Door Handle Droop

[frankcfx]

Well my 1996 Scamp 16SD has door handle drooop. So after taking it apart I decided to order same from Scamp $32 for inside and outside parts plus shipping, Actually you can buy the inside part that centers the outside handle for $16

[Jon in AZ]

When you reinstall, you may want to consider installing it so the handle points down. That will eliminate the main cause of handle droop: vertical movement as you bounce down the highway causing the horizontal lever handle to bang repeatedly against the inner workings.

[Wayne Collins]

Originally Posted by jon in az

when you reinstall, you may want to consider installing it so the handle points down. That will eliminate the main cause of handle droop: Vertical movement as you bounce down the highway causing the horizontal lever handle to bang repeatedly against the inner workings.

or you can point the outer handle to the left, so it balances the weight of the inner handle.
And, it helps do discourage casual snoopers, since then you have to lift the handle instead of pushing down.
Be sure to always lock the handle when traveling.

[TheWanderers]

We are beginning to compile a list of repairs to the new-to-us Scamp that we've acquired and at the top of the list is the door seal and latch.


I hate the handle and wonder if there isn't a better solution. I've worked on Jeeps and they have a similar latching mechanism that incorporates a "paddle handle" that becomes flush with the door when not in use. The inside is somewhat different with a handle in the shape of a hook that you'd slide to release the door latch. The down side is that the mechanism is the size of the hole that would need to be cut through the door panel that would sandwich the mechanism between the inner and outer sections using fours bolts.


Any thoughts on changing this OEM part to an aftermarket? I don't know if there is any value in retaining the original equipment or if there are other ideas that have been tried or improve the latch and handle.

[floyd]

Originally Posted by TheWanderers

We are beginning to compile a list of repairs to the new-to-us Scamp that we've acquired and at the top of the list is the door seal and latch.


I hate the handle and wonder if there isn't a better solution. I've worked on Jeeps and they have a similar latching mechanism that incorporates a "paddle handle" that becomes flush with the door when not in use. The inside is somewhat different with a handle in the shape of a hook that you'd slide to release the door latch. The down side is that the mechanism is the size of the hole that would need to be cut through the door panel that would sandwich the mechanism between the inner and outer sections using fours bolts.


Any thoughts on changing this OEM part to an aftermarket? I don't know if there is any value in retaining the original equipment or if there are other ideas that have been tried or improve the latch and handle.

we installed this over a decade ago and it still works perfect...
Also buy the new door seal from Scamp!

[TheWanderers]

Floyd, that looks pretty nice. I like the smooth line and better function. Did you get the handle from Scamp?

[floyd]

Originally Posted by TheWanderers

Floyd, that looks pretty nice. I like the smooth line and better function. Did you get the handle from Scamp?

Got it from E-Bay for $10. it is a standard RV door latch with a deadbolt.
Comes in black, white and chrome.

[TheWanderers]

Originally Posted by floyd

Got it from E-Bay for $10. it is a standard RV door latch with a deadbolt.
Comes in black, white and chrome.

Now you're talking in my price range. I'm going to check that out. I like the idea of the locking bolt. Thanx for the reference.

[Glenn Baglo]

Looks like a Fastec RV door lock.
It is not advisable to use the deadbolt lock from the outside, nor is it necessary. No need to lock the door twice.
Only use the deadbolt when inside ( via that red lever ).

[floyd]

Originally Posted by Glenn Baglo

Looks like a Fastec RV door lock.
It is not advisable to use the deadbolt lock from the outside, nor is it necessary. No need to lock the door twice.
Only use the deadbolt when inside ( via that red lever ).

So why is that? They had a recall several years ago which affected certain build numbers which had a problem. You can't buy one with the defect today.
The deadbolt works fine and I always use it while in transit.
In fact if I were to only use one of the two it would be the deadbolt.
I serviced mine once since 2004 and it has worked satisfactorily the whole time.

[Glenn Baglo]

Some people had problems getting the deadbolt to unlock if they locked both. Had to take the door off to get in.
Once I learned that, I stopped locking the deadbolt from the outside. I've not had a problem with the door opening when locked, and if somebody wants to break in, the deadbolt isn't going to stop them.
It's like placing dryer sheets around the trailer to deter mice.
Since I stopped locking the deadbolt from the outside, I've not seen a single mouse.

[Glenn Baglo]

I participated in the recall. Replaced the cylinders in both the top lock and the deadbolt. I hadn't had a problem before, nor after.
I'm just suggesting you use one or the other lock to ensure you don't have a problem. Locking both isn't going to deter any burglar.

[Borrego Dave]

I've had a couple of those on different trailers but never had any problem with using both locks from the outside. I like the bolt on the road since it's a longer throw in the jam and maybe I've been lucky to not have a door open. Glenn, you know what they say, "locks are for the honest".

[Glenn Baglo]

Right. So, use the deadbolt lock with the longer throw, and don't lock the other one.
Maybe this problem is no longer an issue after the recall, but there is really no point in locking them both.

[Borrego Dave]

You are right Glenn but it's just kind of a habit to lock them both.

[Glenn Baglo]

Hey. I quit smoking after 45 years of two packs a day.
You can.