Scamp Door Hinges

[TheWanderers]

Working on my list: the hinges of the door are looking very worn. I see that there are springs mounted on the hinge pins and can't imagine what those little thing would be for because they won't stop the door from banging open in any wind and they won't hold the weight of the door "up" on the hinge assembly...hummmm.

Anyway, the hinge is showing major wear and I'm wondering if replacing the hinges would go a long way towards re-centering the door in the doorway?

I also believe that we have some sag coming out between the walls and have read some of the discussions regarding supporting the roof to properly support the walls and the door frame. I know that too will realign the door in the door opening. I first noticed the walls sagging or bellying out when I attempted to place the dinette table down into the bed position and the edges of the benches were not parallel. I began thinking about cutting a new table top to solve the problem but then realized what would make those two seats spread apart like that...well, still need a new tabletop because the laminate on the old one is in rough shape.

Sorry for rambling...what about those hinges? Will they lift the door back up? I've checked the Scamp part store and the hinges have changed the configuration so I'll have to fill holes and redrill if I use "new" hinges, which I suspect I'll be forced to do.


However, I don't understand the reason for the brass ball or spring. Maybe I can simply replace the bolt/pin, ball and spring assembly. Can someone explain this mechanism?

[Ian G.]

The hinges on Scamp's (and boler's) are know as a self aligning hinge. The hinge actually articulates as the door opens, this is because you have a curved door on a curved surface where the upper and lower hinge pins do not align. The brass ball in the hinge is the pivot point and it is also the sacrificial wear component. As the brass ball wears the door will sag. Because the hinge articulates or moves the spring allows the hinge bolt to change length during movement, if the spring is removed or the nut and bolt are too tight the hinge will bind. This is often seen by cracking around the hinge mounting area on either the body or the door, in extreme cases the fiberglass area the hinge mounts to is broken right off.

There is usually no need to replace the hinges, I sell a rebuild kit using marine grade stainless steel and a custom machined brass ball that will replace all the wear items on your hinge with the highest quality parts available.

Link to Boler-Camping Store

[TheWanderers]

Ian:

Here is a picture of our door hinge. You can see the brass ball is still in place as well as the spring still in place. The bolts are sloppy loose and there is obvious wear on the upper hinge bracket where you can see the metal is chipped and may be cracking. I doubt there is any bushing left in there. Let me know which way you think we should proceed. Thanx

[Ian G.]

Originally Posted by TheWanderers

Ian:

Here is a picture of our door hinge. You can see the brass ball is still in place as well as the spring still in place. The bolts are sloppy loose and there is obvious wear on the upper hinge bracket where you can see the metal is chipped and may be cracking. I doubt there is any bushing left in there. Let me know which way you think we should proceed. Thanx

Thanks for the picture Bill

Although a rebuild kit would probably work, considering the condition of the door side hinge leaf I would recommend replacing the entire hinges. I think you will find the replacement Scamp hinges will be a direct replacement but if you want to relocate the hinges by measuring the total length of the door (I believe the door is 66" but measure yours). Divide that measurement into 3 and locate the hinges at that measurement (about 22" and 44" from the top of the door respectively). This new hinge location will allow your door to open fully without hitting the edge of the door on the belly band,

[TheWanderers]

Originally Posted by Ian G.

Thanks for the picture Bill

Although a rebuild kit would probably work, considering the condition of the door side hinge leaf I would recommend replacing the entire hinges. I think you will find the replacement Scamp hinges will be a direct replacement but if you want to relocate the hinges by measuring the total length of the door (I believe the door is 66" but measure yours). Divide that measurement into 3 and locate the hinges at that measurement (about 22" and 44" from the top of the door respectively). This new hinge location will allow your door to open fully without hitting the edge of the door on the belly band,

That right there would solve two problems at once. This is great advice. Thanx!

[Ian G.]

Your welcome.
Here is a picture of mine with the door fully open.
You can get an idea of the hinge location compared to the location on yours.

[TheWanderers]

Ian,

That makes sense now that I see it. Our door hits the belly band and I couldn't figure out how to use the door lock back, if we had one. Thanx again!

Love the door curtain!

[TheWanderers]

Ian,

Has anybody ever switched the sides of the door is hinged on?

Here's my issue; the cabin is bowing slightly and I'm thinking about installing the side rib to stabilize the bowing/bellying body. But, while looking at the cabin it occurred to me that the cabinets of the opposite side of the cabin are already in place to provide the necessary stability to the door hinges as well as the body.

Just another crazy idea from someone who doesn't know better. I'm going outside to look at our Scamp to investigate this option a little more...

[Ian G.]

I don't know of anyone who has switched the way the door opens.
My biggest concern about doing that would be of the door became unlatched while being towed, the door would be ripped off, think suicide doors on a car.
With the hinges on the right even if the door comes open it will stay more or less closed.

Did you look at the body supports I used on my build? If they are made to match the curve of the door and installed the door should fit perfectly.
http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...tml#post300963

[gordon2]

Originally Posted by Ian G.

...even if the door comes open...

Which i hear it does frequently in travel.

[TheWanderers]

Originally Posted by Ian G.

I don't know of anyone who has switched the way the door opens.
My biggest concern about doing that would be of the door became unlatched while being towed, the door would be ripped off, think suicide doors on a car.
With the hinges on the right even if the door comes open it will stay more or less closed.

Well, there's another thing that I hadn't thought about. Glad to have your expertise on this project.

Originally Posted by Ian G.

Did you look at the body supports I used on my build? If they are made to match the curve of the door and installed the door should fit perfectly.
http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...tml#post300963

Wow, nice work on your build. I like those supports but I afraid to begin a total reno/gut job like that...maybe we can realign the door with new hinges and see how things progress from there.

Obviously, I have a lot to learn, especially about glass work and bonding.

I love this place and the great people who are around to advise.

[Mitten Mitsie]

Here we are, a decade later and this post was exactly what I needed to read!!

My camper is a 1972 Trail Mite. VERY similar to the Boler. My NEW door lock failed again (this is my 3rd lock) making it impossible to get inside. So we took the bolts out of the hinges to remove the door. The top door side hinge arm is failing, so I decided I might replace it. It APPEARS the Scamp hinge might work (I have to check measurements). This post was so informative!! I just really appreciate all of the helpers on this site, without whom I would have never been able to repair anything on this camper!!

The previous owner installed a novelty antenna on a threaded rod that was also part of the hinge. I'm thinking that's why the hinge arm is breaking apart.

The current hinge pin set up includes several nuts, no spring. Do you guys think if I replaced jyst the bottom hinge PIN set (the actual hinge is not damaged) with a Scamp hinge pin replacement set it would be sufficient? I'd rather not replace the entire hinge and risk having to fix the fiberglass (which I am just not good at). Then, do you think I could just replace the one side of the upper hinge that is broken. And not both pieces?

Does anyone have just the door hinge piece of a refurb job they'd like to sell me?

[Bsharp76]

Go to scamp website, in store section you can buy the door hinge repair and do both hinges so it's evenly worn