Scamp floor replacement opinions - Fiberglass RV
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Old 07-02-2017, 11:32 AM   #1
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Name: KAY
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Scamp floor replacement opinions

I have several bad spots around the back and front where the old window seals leaked. Looks like they leaked for a long time. I also have rot on the passenger side in the front of the wheel well.

Is it better to...
1.) Replace sections at a time? (is there a better working order i.e. front, middle, back)
2.) Pull the frame out from under it and replace it all at once? (will the body go back over the complete frame/floor combo?)
3.) Use it this season, knowing full well I need to go to REHAB with this thing.

I just stood in West Marine, looking at resins and Git Rot, and 2 part repair products. None of it is reasonable, let alone cheap, if I am just going to have to re-do it all in a couple of months.

I seek the "been-there-done-that" opinions on this site that have been so helpful.
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Old 07-02-2017, 07:58 PM   #2
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Anyone?
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Old 07-02-2017, 08:40 PM   #3
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Replace one section at a time. The floor holds the shell in place so things line up when replacing sections. If you pull out all the floor the shell will act like jello. There is currently a real good thread going on now on the SOI website dealing with a Scamp rear floor replacement. The thread even has good pictures showing what has to be done.
Two sheets 5/8" plywood, couple qts. or a gallon of resin and hardener, a couple sq. yards of fiberglass mat, Fiberglass filler to make resin peanut butter, screws a tube of adhesive sealant and primer and paint for the frame. a bunch of $1. paint brushes and a box of gloves. This is enough material to do the complete upper floor deck on a Scamp. My guess is about $200-$250 in materials.
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Old 07-02-2017, 09:16 PM   #4
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So is there a prefered order of replacement? Is it easier to do the front before the back or vice versa?
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Old 07-02-2017, 09:39 PM   #5
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Does not matter. Just one at a time. The rear is the easiest. If the bond on the walkway front frame rail to shell has broken the door hinge side of the shell has to re realigned and secured for the front floor install, which complicates things somewhat.
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Old 07-03-2017, 10:50 AM   #6
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OK Eddie I'll bite. What is SOI website
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Old 07-03-2017, 10:54 AM   #7
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Scamp Owner's International
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Old 07-03-2017, 08:12 PM   #8
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It's a membership forum. You can view but not post without joining.
Floor thread.
https://www.scampowners.com/forums/q...or-replacement
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Old 07-05-2017, 07:19 AM   #9
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Replace Scamp floor ?

We own a 1997 16' Scamp. We bought it 4 years ago and there was floor damage caused by window leaks at the rear storage areas under the seats of the dining area. There were no holes but dry rot that I probably could have put my fist through. The total affected area was 2-3 sq ft. I've been a sailor for decades and have spent a lot of time in boatyards. I learned a method for strengthening areas of dry-rot and used it on the Scamp. I purchased some plastic syringes from West Marine. Then determine a drill size that will accept the syringe ( they can be clipped to permit more flow). Take some tape and mark the drill bit for about 1/2". Drill a lot of holes about 2" apart. Mix epoxy with acetone until it is much like water. It doesn't take a lot of acetone to get that consistency, so start slow. Use the syringe and inject the thinned epoxy into the holes. Wait an hour and repeat 2 or 3 times. It takes over a day for the thinned epoxy to cure. When finished, apply some fiberglass mat and paint with un-thinned epoxy.
Sometimes the dry-rot is bad enough that the thinned epoxy will run straight through. Paint the underside with un-thinned epoxy and allow to cure. When hard, put duct tape on to seal small holes. remove when finished.
I agree that a new floor done right is better than a repaired floor. It is also true that using a scamp is so much better than working on a job the size of replacing a floor. I repaired the floor 4 years ago, have used the trailer 8 weeks a year or more and have traveled from Mich to the west coast, Texas, Florida and spend about 2 weeks a year using it in Mich. The repair is as good today as when I first did it. I did put up a metal carport to keep it dry when at home which has to be a help.
I have no idea how bad your damage is but thinned epoxy MIGHT be an alternative that would use less of your camping time.
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Old 07-05-2017, 07:22 AM   #10
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The archives here show photos of a replacement, that is if the old Hack did not delete them
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