scamp lock not catching

[Pearl]

1998 13' scamp--door out of alignment--door pops open while traveling. Lock barely catches on latch. Camping world says they can't fix. Any suggestions? Am having them put on an outside push lock, but really would like to change out whole handle and lock system. Maybe a lock smith? Any suggestions?

[Byron Kinnaman]

Originally Posted by Pearl

1998 13' scamp--door out of alignment--door pops open while traveling. Lock barely catches on latch. Camping world says they can't fix. Any suggestions? Am having them put on an outside push lock, but really would like to change out whole handle and lock system. Maybe a lock smith? Any suggestions?

The spring in the latching mechanism wears out. A quick call to Scamp to buy a new latch, 6 screws to remove the old and replace with the new.

You could order from the web here , But shipping is usually cheaper when ordered by phone. At any rate it's a cheap fix.

[Pearl]

Thanks for info! I had a guy take it off a few weeks back and the lock itself is ok. It opens and closes as it should. Spring seems ok he said. I really think it is from the misalignment of the door. When door is shut against latch, it just barely hangs on. Worried about having to replace whole door! Still may try a locksmith and see if a whole new door handle/lock system could be put on. There has to be a solution. Again, thanks.

[Thomas G.]

Originally Posted by Pearl

.......There has to be a solution. Again, thanks.

Maybe you can post some pictures, then we can help more.

http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...b3_attachments

[Donna D.]

If the door isn't catching, is it sitting evenly in the opening? Or drooping?

[Byron Kinnaman]

Originally Posted by Pearl

Thanks for info! I had a guy take it off a few weeks back and the lock itself is ok. It opens and closes as it should. Spring seems ok he said. I really think it is from the misalignment of the door. When door is shut against latch, it just barely hangs on. Worried about having to replace whole door! Still may try a locksmith and see if a whole new door handle/lock system could be put on. There has to be a solution. Again, thanks.

After about 6 1/2 years of heavy use I had exactly the same problem you're describing. When the spring wore out the latch barely holding the door closed. The spring and latch mechanism appeared to ok. I took it off and examined it thinking there was something wrong. It appeared OK, put it back on, door still came open. I purchased the latch in the link I provided. After replacement the door latched just like new. It's a whole lot cheaper to replace the latch mechanism and find out it's not the problem than it is replace the door and find out the door's not the problem.

This is not an uncommon problem with Scamp latches. These are the same latching mechanisms that were used in 1980 and earlier simi-trucks. They had the same problem.

[Marinab]

I had the same problem with my Surfside when the door sagged. Reece at Escape trailers made me the piece of metal that screws into the door frame. It looked the same as the old one but was twice as long. After the fix, the latch caught on the new part and when I hit a bump in the road, the extra length wouldn't allow the latch to slide off the bottom. Clear as mud? Marina

[David B.]

I was having a problem with my door not wanting to "line-up" to lock properly. I found the problem was a cracked frame. Look very closely at the frame, especially at the top where it sits against the body.

[David B.]

I replaced my handle with a more modern RV style door lock, after reading a thread on this site about doing that very thing. I was able to recycle the old one by giving it to Norm & Ginny, who were able to use it that very week. I sealed the new hole for the new handle, with fiberglass resin so the inner door would not take on water. I really like the "dead bolt" along with handle lock, which makes us feel more secure (I know the hinges can be taken off from the outside)

[Pearl]

Originally Posted by Donna D.

If the door isn't catching, is it sitting evenly in the opening? Or drooping?

The door is drooping! Out of alignment. Hired a man to put 2 new side bolts on, but it didn't help. I WILL get this figured out!! I may be a single female camper, but refuse to let it beat me down! Thanks for any input.

[Pearl]

Originally Posted by Thomas G.

Maybe you can post some pictures, then we can help more.

Fiberglass RV - FAQ: Reading and Posting Messages

Tom, thanks! Camper still in shop at Camping World. Will try to take some pics when I get it back. Have received several interesting solutions, like ordering a new lock, etc. I think I may have to ask at repair shop when picking camper up--WHY they can't put a new different type lock on it--I can see it has been done on these forums! The forum couple who mentioned the spring giving way also leads me to think about just ordering a new one from scamp. Am tieing up so much money in other needed repairs that it worries me spending money that may or may not solve the issue! Again, appreciate all responses from u guys. You're great! Glad I found the site!

[Donna D.]

I replaced the door handle lockset on my Scamp with a "T" garage door handle/lockset. Shop Genie Garage Door Lock Handle at Lowes.com Less than $10. The shaft is the same diameter, just had to take a hack saw and cut off a chunk. Fit perfectly.

[Pearl]

Thanks Donna! I don't think it is the lock, itself. It is the piece of metal that the lock sits against when closed. (the cast iron piece (latch?) that is located on the left side of door frame.) I just don't know all the technical terms for parts, sorry. If that piece could be taken off and a different longer piece put in, the problem may be solved.

[Donna D.]

Pearl, just be sure to check the inside (interior of the trailer) of the lockset to make certain it's not the throw (?) that's worn down. The piece you're talking about is made by Scamp. If you order, you'll get one the same.. otherwise you'd have to have it made. I can't even get to one of the rivets that holds the one on in my Scamp. They put it on first... then the wood cabinets inside.

[Pearl]

Yes, think u r right about the throw? latch catch. I looked it over before taking it to rv repair shop. Rivets look impossible to get to! Almost tempted to have it blow torched in half (because it is a bent over half-rounded piece) and then the piece could be formed into a longer straight piece. Just thinking of ideas! You seem to know exactly the piece I am talking about, so that's good! Basically, what I think it needs is the piece to be longer so the lock catch will be sitting deeper onto the latch? itself. Once I get unit back, will re-look at it and try to find a handyman who can figure it out for me!

[Donna D.]

Originally Posted by David B.

I replaced my handle with a more modern RV style door lock, after reading a thread on this site about doing that very thing.

David when you get a chance could you please post a picture of the door catch (jam area) and the interior lockset. THANKS!

[Pearl]

David's door lock is the one I have been looking at here on the site! Camping World said they can't do it! What kind of latch was put on for the lock to hold onto? Surely, the old Scamp half rounded one had to be taken off. Only solution Camping World is giving me is to have a push type bolt lock put on the outside of camper to hold door in place while traveling. And, that is going to cost me $200, plus have to sign a waiver of liability in case of fire inside camper (meaning--they told me that if anyone should push the lock on the outside while I was inside--it would be dangerous.)

[Donna D.]

Pearl, does the door only open under tow? Does it catch and lock (with pin) when you're parked and level? I only ask because some folks have used a bungy from the interior door handle to a cabinet, etc. across the way. It just needs to be long enough to hold the door shut, but long enough you can get your arm inside the door to fasten it to the door. Your other option is to add a deadbolt.

This thread talks about all these: http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...pen-34310.html

[David B.]

Originally Posted by Donna D.

David when you get a chance could you please post a picture of the door catch (jam area) and the interior lockset. THANKS!

Here are some pictures I just took of the door jam area. It's been a while since I made the modification, and my memory is "fuzzy" as to what all I had to do, and what I would have done differently if I were to do it again. I remember not being able to place the new door lock exactly where I wanted it unless I plugged the original door handle hole and re-glassed it. I never have done any finish surface fiberglass work, so I moved the lock-set just enough to cover the original hole. If I remember right, I thought if I ever did this again I would try to plug the original hole to be able to place the latch in a position where the original door jam striker plate could be used. I had to fabricate one out of 3/4" X 3/4" L-bracket stock, and sandwich the fiberglass body door opening between this L-bracket and a 3/4" flat stock piece. Notice I had to not only cut the L stock where the door latch had to pass through, but I had to "bump it out" slightly also. I was able to use rivets except for one place where I used a long bolt & nut (Probable the first one to hold all the pieces together until I could rivet them together). The door latch itself had to be spaced out slightly with small square tubing top & bottom.
If your original striker plate is not worn out, which I doubt, I would be looking for door hinges needing rebuilding or realigning the door. I would also look for fractures or bends in your frame, especially around the axle attachment points, PRIOR TO CHANGING OUT YOUR LOCK, as the PROBLEM will still be lurking causing additional repairs and adjustments.

[Donna D.]

Thanks David. Pictures are worth a thousand words