Scamp refrigerator

[Ron and Alma]

Hi,

We had some trouble with our gas refrigerator during our recent vacation. It would not light and the one time it did, it had a yellow flame and did not cool. I would like to remove the burner and check the jet as outlined in the manual, but the cover will not come off because the gas line is in the way. Should I disconnect the gas line and bend it out of the way, or maybe I need to pull the whole refrigerator a few inches out of the cabinet from the front? Or maybe there is some other trick? This is a 13 ft Scamp.

Thanks,
Ron

[Bill K]

A yellow flame usually means you are not getting enough oxygen to the burner.
Check and make sure there are no nest or spider webs.

Bill K

Hi,

We had some trouble with our gas refrigerator during our recent vacation. It would not light and the one time it did, it had a yellow flame and did not cool. I would like to remove the burner and check the jet as outlined in the manual, but the cover will not come off because the gas line is in the way. Should I disconnect the gas line and bend it out of the way, or maybe I need to pull the whole refrigerator a few inches out of the cabinet from the front? Or maybe there is some other trick? This is a 13 ft Scamp.

Thanks,
Ron

[Ron and Alma]

I disconnected the gas line and removed the burner today. It was full of rusty scale particles. I could not get the gas jet out without destroying it and didn't see anyway to clean out the burner without removing the jet. So I need a new jet and perhaps it may work now.
I also got to test the igniter and could easily see the spark with the burner moved out in the open.

[Harry Young]

Yellow flame also means there is contaminants entering the gas stream.

You can clean out the line with pipe cleaners when the line is un-loosened, but the rust quickly comes back...also the pilot or burner orifice can be cleaned out with a size smaller drill orifice bit or a fine gauge wire. The older units used a steel gas line which rusted and flaked off horribly, I replace it with an aluminum one.

Most full service propane companies will do it for you...an R.V. specialist is not needed here.

The whole set up is basically cheap online if you want to order it and just R&R it all, it often is the results of living in moist areas 5+ years or more.

Having stuck nuts and difficult to move parts is normal in this area of service.

[b]Tip: It is tempting to try to use spray chemical products that unloosen these parts...do not.

Bench it... use multiple wrenches holding the component steady and applying force at the nut at same time in the correct rotation opposite of each other. An electric solder iron when the refrigerator is on the bench placed on the stuck nut a few minuets heats up the metal enough to expand it so it breaks free...this of course means no L/P is present.

[b]Harry

I disconnected the gas line and removed the burner today. It was full of rusty scale particles. I could not get the gas jet out without destroying it and didn't see anyway to clean out the burner without removing the jet. So I need a new jet and perhaps it may work now.
I also got to test the igniter and could easily see the spark with the burner moved out in the open.

[Ron and Alma]

Hi

As a follow up, the cover can be removed without disconnecting the gas line. The screw in the back on the left is removed and then the cover can be moved to the left enough to disconnect the tab from the slot on the rear right. The cover can then be moved to the left out of the way.

I had trouble finding another gas jet/orifice. My local RV dealer could not find it in their parts lookup system. I found one at
http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/rv-refr...rator-parts.htm

This link is difficult to find from the pplmotorhomes main page, I found it via google search.
Ron