Scamp Rivet Size List

[RogerDat]

Since I could not find a list of rivet sizes to order for the things I was replacing I decided to post what I found worked as a guide to others. Of course Your Milage May Vary.


It would be great if others would add to this thread, if title of post includes "Rivet Size" and model / year it will help search feature find it. You have to Go Advanced to have option to title your post.


According to phone conversation with Scamp fiberglass walls are between 3/16 and 1/4 inch thick.


Carol H posted these links in another post to a general guide and chart on rivet clinch allowance http://www.aboveboardelectronics.com/chicago_rivet/guidelines.html
along with link to Fastenal a bulk rivet source http://www.fastenal.com/web/home.ex

[RogerDat]

I measured rivets I removed and noted those measurements and then what I used to replace them.

cord port & water fill - 1/4 inch head, 1/8 inch dia. shaft, 9/16 inch grip. Scamp 46 works with butyl tape caulk.

fridge vent (top) - 1/4 inch head, 1/8 inch dia. shaft, 9/16 inch grip. Scamp 46 works with butyl tape caulk.

belly band - 1/4 inch head, 1/8 inch dia. shaft, 7/16 inch grip. fiberglass seam plus belly band is 3/8 inch but varies a bit. I used Surebonder multi grip which does 3/8 to 1/2 inch grip. Part number FPC4547A-100 in a hundred cnt pack for $5.79 Scamp 46 looks like it might work.

curtain rod bracket on door - old rivets stayed in door so I could not measure. I used scamp 46 it worked.

furnace vent (old style gravity furnace) - 3/8 inch head, 3/16 inch dia. shaft, 9/16 inch grip. I used 5/8 inch store bought, scamp 6-10 or 66 looks like it might be a match.

[Carol H]

Scamps parts store has a list of the various sizes they sell - which I assume pretty well covers most of what they use on the trailers. The sizes are shown here.

[RogerDat]

Originally Posted by Carol H

Scamps parts store has a list of the various sizes they sell - which I assume pretty well covers most of what they use on the trailers. The sizes are shown here.

When I put a "Scamp #" as a fit or possible fit it's from that page of what they sell. But what Scamp does not provide is what size fits what part or application. That is what I plan to record here. And hope others will contribute.

I called Scamp and they did look up what my they had record of for my 1977 scamp but at least one rivet size is no longer sold by them, and another was listed as a 3/16 dia and mine for that part are all 1/8 inch dia.

Some of the smaller rivets such as black bottom trim and inside panel between fridge and sink are smaller than any they list for sale. I have a lot of different length 1/8 inch rivets, scamp currently sells one length.

[Carol H]

Rodger I just thought that Scamp list would be a good start as to what sizes they use.

Remember you dont need a whole bunch of rivets of the same diameter of different lengths. You can cut down a rivets length in order to get it to the correct fit. Just pull the pin from the rivet and cut the rivet length and put the pin back in - good to go.

[RogerDat]

Originally Posted by Carol H

Rodger I just thought that Scamp list would be a good start as to what sizes they use.

I buy what I can from Scamp so that link is useful to include. Thing that drove me nuts is having to drill the head off one and drive it out to figure out what size I needed to order.

Good to note the ability to modify a rivet length to fit, I would tend to save that for "in a pinch" repair or replacement of one or two rivets. Too lazy to do it for entire belly band.

[Carol H]

[QUOTE=RogerDat;311451
Good to note the ability to modify a rivet length to fit, I would tend to save that for "in a pinch" repair or replacement of one or two rivets. Too lazy to do it for entire belly band. [/QUOTE]

Nope that would be a pain but I have found when replacing the roof and side rivets that although you would think they should all be the same length some of them require a minor length adjustment in order for it to fit snug in the acorn nut.

[RogerDat]

Originally Posted by Carol H

Nope that would be a pain but I have found when replacing the roof and side rivets that although you would think they should all be the same length some of them require a minor length adjustment in order for it to fit snug in the acorn nut.

Harvey made note of that problem of length being slightly off over in http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...ets-52050.html

And since I don't appear to ever have had snap caps (no residue, shadow on FG, and rivets still tight) I'm going to be doing those cabinets sooner or later. What do you use to get a clean cut of the rivet tube?

[morbank]

RogerDat - Regardless of Scamp's list, thank you for posting your findings. It's very helpful for newbies like me, especially those with older Scamps. My Scamp is a '78 and like you I'm finding that indeed Scamp may not necessarily carry what I might need. On top of the fact that the fractional measurements are highly confusing (what's wrong with millimeters???), I appreciate your list. Thanks!

[RogerDat]

Originally Posted by morbank

RogerDat - ....On top of the fact that the fractional measurements are highly confusing (what's wrong with millimeters???)...

Old yanks don't do metric unless we have to I did record the mm to nearest round number but since the sizes are fractional in our stores and at scamp...

Here is a conversion chart for our friends to the north who do it the way the rest of the world does.
Conversion Chart - inches to mm

[Carol H]

[QUOTE=RogerDat;311464What do you use to get a clean cut of the rivet tube?[/QUOTE]

Just a good hack saw with the rivet in a vise-grip.

[RogerDat]

Curtain rod brackets - looked like an 1/8 inch dia. by 1/2 inch length rivet would fit (using a snap cap base) but only if person on inside could really force the curtain rod bracket in tight.

Instead went with 8-32 x 1/2 inch stainless phillips head bolt and brass acorn nut, acorn nut matches the brass look curtain rod bracket. Applied a dab of butyl tape to back of snap cap cup, trimmed excess butyl tape using a toothpick after everything was tightened down.

Found 8-32 stainless bolts at HD but not that size of acorn nut, had to hit a real hardware store for those. Ace Hardware had them in my area.

Also have noticed tendancy of fake brass brackets to rust so applied a silicon based polish to brackets before mounting to protect them from moisture.

[Perry J]

I just finished reriveting a 13' Scamp.
Windows, curtain rod holders, belly band, awning rail and every rivet in the shell.

I used 3/16 X 1/4, 3/16X1 1/2 and 1/8x1 1/2.
All purchased at Ace Hardware or Lowes.
Snap Caps from Pro Dec.

The only rivets not replaced are those used to hold the black trim around the bottom of the shell.

John

[volunteergal63]

Just bought a 2001 16' Scamp. I have a few hair line cracks around some of the rivets support the upper cabinets of kitchen. The rivets do not have the clear washer the snap caps attach to, so I assume the rivets need replacing. How do I repair the cracks? Could it just be the gel coat??

[fusedlight]

All the rivets are back in for connecting the dinette-back section save one. Mostly 5/8. This one looks like it's going to need a 3/4 or so. Oh well, I don't need much of an excuse to go back to Seven Corners!

[Eddie Longest]

Susan
A 2001 Scamp should have bases and caps on all the rivets. The rivets need to be replaced with new caps and bases. For the hairline cracks you can use Capt. Tolleys Crack Sealer. If the holes are really eaten out reglass, gelcoat and redrill. There should not be that much of a load on the upper cabinet rivets. Are the spiral metal supports still installed and secure? Don't overload the upper cabinets.
Eddie
http://www.captaintolley.com/index.html

[Carol H]

I am with Eddie. If there are no caps or holders it sounds like someone has already replaced the rivets but didnt replace the cap holders and caps. I know some people here suggest the holders and caps are only decorative but I suspect the holders for the caps actually act as a little bit of a cushion on the gelcoat and *may* help to avoid gelcoat cracks if the cabinets are stressed. I know Scamp didn't always use caps on their rivets but they sure were in 2001 and for at least a decade prior. There is usually a reason why a manufacturer changes their practises and avoiding gelcoat cracks *may* be one of the reasons they started using holders & caps on the rivets.

[volunteergal63]

Originally Posted by Eddie Longest

Susan
A 2001 Scamp should have bases and caps on all the rivets. The rivets need to be replaced with new caps and bases. For the hairline cracks you can use Capt. Tolleys Crack Sealer. If the holes are really eaten out reglass, gelcoat and redrill. There should not be that much of a load on the upper cabinet rivets. Are the spiral metal supports still installed and secure? Don't overload the upper cabinets.
Eddie
Capt. Tolley's Creeping Crack Cure

Thanks Eddie,
Yes the metal supports are still there. I plan on replacing any rivets where the clear washer is damaged so it won't hold a cap and any that have cracking. It is under a carport, so don't have to worry about water getting in.

Susan

[RogerDat]

There was an issue with the acorn nuts used for the cabinet and closet. The original acorn cap nuts are #12 and all the stores in the area have them for #10 and then jump to 1/4 inch. What I ended up doing was drilling the #10 hole larger with a 3/16 drill bit. Still left a little bit of thread ridge for the rivet to grip and fit snug.

Once I drilled the first cap nut I wrapped a little masking tape around the drill bit to mark how deep to go.

Used Scamp #68 rivets 3/16 x 1/2 with two exceptions. At the curve of the closet I needed a 5/8 long rivet to get through far enough. Closet and trailer wall not as tight with each other on both sides at the curve.

I considered using #10 stainless machine screws but two things stopped me. Could not find purple (220) lock tite locally lock tite I was concerned the nuts would vibrate loose. Can order the purple (low strength) version online. Second wife found it easier to hold cap nut for a second while I popped a rivet than to hold a wrench on the nut while I tightened the screw.

[Thee Jimbo]

Originally Posted by Perry J

I just finished reriveting a 13' Scamp.
Windows, curtain rod holders, belly band, awning rail and every rivet in the shell.

I used 3/16 X 1/4, 3/16X1 1/2 and 1/8x1 1/2.
All purchased at Ace Hardware or Lowes.
Snap Caps from Pro Dec.

The only rivets not replaced are those used to hold the black trim around the bottom of the shell.

John

Hi John, I am assuming you used snap caps with all of the rivets on the body (eclsuding band etc). Just checking. I am looking to re-do all on my 1980 and would like to use the snap caps.

Thanks. . jimbo