Sealing the rivet holes on my roof

[Shanti 5500]

Good evening. I have trillium trailer which I removed the awning rail ,& I am having problems sealing the holes. I've been using proflex caulking.

Anyone have suggestions

[BASE1360]

I use epoxy. There are several brands/types of epoxies that will work. JB Plastiweld comes to mind but there are other pastes and puttys that work too. Any marine epoxy for fiberglass should work if you can’t find anything else.

[jbclabaugh]

Do you have a plan for a new awning or shelter? We are hunting for an option for our 1980 1300 Deluxe trillium. Have a rail and bag system now. Not very water tight.

[redbarron55]

Get a stainless screw to fill the hole with a washer on each side and use a little sealant under the washers.
This way you can refit the awning if wanted and fill the hole and seal it with no worries about leaking.

[Mike_L]

Do you intend to utilize these holes again?
I'm not familiar with your unit so am not aware of accessibility. A caulking will seal the holes, some products better than others. Fiberglass will permanently eliminate them.

[gordon2]

Rapid Set Marine-Tex® | Marine Tex

[Yvimij]

I second Plastiweld from JB Weld. That is what I used when I removed the awnining casing from my Casita. No leaks in over two years. Color does not quite match but you would have to be on a ladder to notice it.

[Borden]

Originally Posted by Shanti 5500

Good evening. I have trillium trailer which I removed the awning rail ,& I am having problems sealing the holes. I've been using proflex caulking.

Anyone have suggestions

Had same problem we removed the original rivets in the rail and used new Stanley marine closed end rivets. Put a little trailer caulking on the top edge of rail and ends then put it back on to seal the edges. Also put a thin line of Lexel caulking across the top edge after install. Lexel is clear as glass and did not want it to show. Unlike silicone which will not stick to silicone, Lexel will stick to its self and even works on wet objects. We do always use the trailer product first; but in most cases it is raining and then Lexel; as it will work on wet items so it is in our emergency kit.

Warning Lexel sticks to everything dry or wet and is very strong never use on lenses of lights or over work it as you will have a mess.

If you do not want any rail then fan out holes a little use marine epoxy with a little bit of glass fiber to fill holes and then gelcoat later over top to make the holes disappear. This would be better than caulking holes and be permanent fix.

[Borden]

Originally Posted by gordon2

Rapid Set Marine-Tex® | Marine Tex

We use the marine epoxy to fill holes adding a little glass fiber to it and gelcoat over. Great products. $160 per liter thin or thick product. Also available in a small tube for small repairs.

Like the thin resin for large repairs, use it in place of the fiberglass resin if fiberglass resin will not stick to intended fix.

[RogerDat]

Following with some interest as I debate keeping the roll up awning or putting on a rail that will allow me to attach any tarp.

Poles and ropes are a bit of a hassle but I am usually able to make them a solid enough set up to standup to bad weather. More wind then out comes smaller tarp. A 5x7 tarp doesn't provide a lot of space but does allow for shaking off poncho outside out of the rain or sitting with no worries about wind damaging the $5 tarp. A 10x12 tarp for fair weather is a second room.

I also like the awning track taped down with VHB tape spreads the wind load out along entire 8 ft track length as opposed to focusing all the pull on three brackets. Held in with one or maybe two screws.

On the other hand a properly working roll up tarp is an easy setup awning that looks good and I already have brackets mounted for it.

So how to best patch the holes if I remove those brackets is of interest.