Ok here it is, from BF Forum:
I purchased a new 2019 BF25RQ with the cargo box in front, off the lot. The following are things you may want to consider if ordering a new trailer. These are items you may want to have added to the trailer, and areas to inspect when the new unit is delivered. I am not certain the Company will do the requested changes, but it wouldnít hurt to ask. My experience RVing: The BF is my second trailer, the first being a Casita
. I have been RVing about 4 years, 30K + miles, and about 300+ nights.
outlets are needed. I donít much like having the electrical
outlet on the underside of the cabinet over the dining room table, but I do use it. I just donít like all the wires hanging down. I would leave what is there, but ask for additional outlets over the front passenger side window. There is a small shelf over this window and the cabinet seems to have a surface that would be ideal for an additional 15 amp duplex or quadplex outlet, possible with USB ports. Another place is in the front passenger side corner or on the bench in that corner. The kitchen area needs another 15 amp duplex, located beside the one that is already there would be acceptable, or change that duplex to a quadplex. Also an additional duplex outlet mounted on the wall between the bathroom and the bedroom. Also additional 15 amp outlet could be put under the table on the bench seat. The bathroom also needs another duplex, or change the duplex to a quadplex. Note: the GFCI receptacle is located under the bathroom cabinet in my unit.
are double pane, but if possible, try to upgrade. Check the sliding rubber seal when the windows
are open. The rubber gasket does not seem to touch the glass when open and even large insects just crawl right in, I have actually watched them do this. Not sure how to check this because it is difficult to see if the rubber sweep actually touches the window.
I really like the well built and beautiful cargo box, but it has shortcomings. Due to the curves and angles it does not hold as much as it could. Also the propane/battery compartment is molded into the cargo box. I find it difficult to extract the propane
bottles, and adding another battery
will make the area even more crowded. So consider doing this: Get the extended tongue but add your own aluminum diamond plate boxes and cover the propane
bottles with a vinyl cover. Should be much easier to remove the propane
bottles and battery
If #3 is done, then consider putting a generator
in the middle between two cargo boxes. I suggest a gas powered 3K or 7.5K Honda generator
, hardwired into the trailer, such that the start switch would remain where it currently is on a generator ready trailer, that is, inside. I have the Cummins Onan 2.5K LP generator. It is too small and because it is LP is further reduced in power output. It also sucks down LP like you would not believe. We prefer to be able to run a number of different appliances at the same time, which cannot be done with the Cummins Onan. But it is very convenient to be able to start and run the generator from inside the trailer. I prefer gas over LP because it is much easier to obtain gas and produces more energy. Also it is a pain to slide under the trailer to service the Cummins Onan.
Have the outside 30 amp receptacle upgraded to a stainless steel receptacle. I am always worried the plastic threads will strip when screwing on the electrical
Try to have the axle
covers on the wheels replaced with covers that have a covered hole so the Dexter EZ lube axles can be lubricated without having to take the wheels off. I know some people will say you should take the wheel off, punch the bearings out, then lube by hand. But Dexter says to just rotate and squirt grease in through the zert. This is how Dexter designed the bearing to be lubricated, just read the manual. I am not trying to start an argument, so do it which ever way you prefer.
I had a flat tire this past camping season. I change my own tires
, although I have the roadside service available. I do it myself because I donít want to wait for hours for the service guy to show up. It really is not that hard to do yourself. I mention this because that fiberglass cover on the spare tire is a real bear to take off and put back on. Try to get the company to keep the fiberglass cover and give you a vinyl cover for the spare tire.
The screen door does not seal properly at the bottom corners. I donít like sitting inside, door open, screen door closed, but be able to see straight outside in the corners. The gap in these corners are big enough to allow a large snake or a small rat in. I have tried to fix this but nothing really has worked, so I continue to experiment.
Try to get the company to put a strut on the top of the door as well as having the one at the bottom. Or maybe just a strap. I have not had the door blow off, but the winds are really strong in the midwest. It is bound to happen sooner or later.
Do you really need an awning
? I have one but use my Clam shelter much more often.
Try to get an upgrade to the bathroom shower faucet. This is just a cheap and badly mounted fixture.
Outside shower fixture is also cheap and the hose crimps when stored. I installed these in my Casita
and will install in my BF when I get up the nerve (Amazon): Phoenix Valterra Plastic Dual Handle 4" Faucet with Quick Connect, white. I may try to install this in the shower also, so you only need one long hose that can be used inside and outside. Best to have the company install these if possible.
Have the bathroom fan replaced with a Fantastic fan. And have Maxxair covers installed for both fan units on the trailer.
Try to get the company to install electrical heat tapes in the spaces with water pipes and black and grey tanks. This would allow you to plug into electric at home and maybe not have to blow out the water lines and fill with RV antifreeze when stored for the winter. It takes me forever to get that pink antifreeze taste out of my waterlines.
Try to get the company to place the springs on top of the axle
, to give a bit more clearance.
panels installed, enough so that the Cummins Onan generator will not be needed to keep the battery
charged. But I like having a generator and will so have both.
Have a back up camera installed by the company.
Take off the tail light
lens covers and check to make sure the hole the wires run through and into the trailer are filled with sealant; one of mine had no sealant at all. These lights
and all the marker lights
leak. I drilled holes in the bottom of the tail lights
to have the water drain out. Every light
I have gets condensation inside, while the tail lights
actually almost completely fill with water in a severe rain storm.
The 25R needs to be 50 amp, with two 11k AC units, preferable ducted, but at least two AC units. I know some people will say this is a well insulated unit and one 11K AC is enough. Maybe in the northern part of the US but if you go to the eastern Texas and SE states in the summer, with temps around 100ļ with 100% humidity, one 11K AC does not cut it. It takes hours for my trailer to cool down to the point where I sweat cupfuls rather than buckets. That is, still sweat. This will also allow what ever electric appliance you may want to run at the same time, instead of having to use only one appliance at a time. And yes, I have encountered 100% humidity and it not be raining.
Get a Tire Pressure Management System. Trust me on this. TST is a good one to consider.
Get a WDH. I use a Blue Ox, simple and easy to use. Note: While leaving the coupler attached to the truck, jack the hitch up. This will relieve most, but not all, the tension on the spring arms, thereby making the arms easier to release. Then lower the hitch and uncouple. I threw away the wrench that came with the Blue Ox and use a very long breaker bar and a six point 1" socket and 3/4" drive.