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Old 07-13-2019, 03:39 PM   #21
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Name: Cliff
Trailer: 2017 Escape 5.0 TA
Connecticut
Posts: 198
Drilled and taped frame 1/4 28. Attached tube using ss hardware, including fender washers. So far its been from VT to Florida, back to Ct and it's still there��
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Old 07-13-2019, 03:41 PM   #22
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Name: Cliff
Trailer: 2017 Escape 5.0 TA
Connecticut
Posts: 198
Didn't use u bolts, no space between frame and fiberglass.
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Old 07-19-2019, 03:03 PM   #23
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Name: Ned
Trailer: 2017 Scamp 13D & 2016 Highlander
Iowa
Posts: 23
I found and purchased this waste tube storage unit. I mounted this behind the rear tires and have used it for a year. Works well.

https://www.dwincorp.com/product/sup...le-super-tube/

They do have other options here.
https://www.dwincorp.com/product-cat...hose-carriers/
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Old 07-20-2019, 10:22 AM   #24
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Name: Jerrybob
Trailer: casita
Washington
Posts: 190
I took a PVC pipe and strapped in to our back bumper with heavy duty plastic ties.....at both ends of the pipe....drilled holes to drop down a bolt to prevent the hose from coming out. Very easy to use plus....with the open ends...never have a drainage issue. Double nut the bolts otherwise the vibration can cause a single nut to back off. I have replaced the heavy duty plastic ties one time in 6 years. Good luck...safe travels.
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Old 07-21-2019, 08:38 AM   #25
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Name: Fredrick
Trailer: Escape 21C
Tennessee
Posts: 318
tube to frame

Quote:
Originally Posted by Daryl05 View Post
How did you secure tube to frame ? Thanks
Step by step:
1. Get a PVC fence post 5" on a side. A 4" post will NOT accept a sewer hose btw You need about 4' of post. MEASURE your stinky slinky collapsed to SEE how long a holder needs to be. Get a pak of 18" 3/8" thick UV-resistant Zip Ties. You need 4 so beg some from a buddy..let him watch the antics and help if necessary.

2. Find a set of those black "looped" bungees ....those w the little red ball at the end at any camping store or WallyWorld etc. . U will need 2.. Ummm..maybe borrow 2 from a buddy bks they come in boxes of at least 8 .

3. Stretch one bungee out a bit [to see how long it will stretch]...then drill a hole in the REAR side of the post at each end, about 10" from the ends....& large enuf to pass a lop of bungee thru..[do not pass it threu yet] then smooth out the hole edges a bit w yer drill so they won't chafe the bungee cords. You may need to experiment a bit here to see where that hole needs to be..I did. These holes need to be in the bottom side OR the bac(rear) side of the post for "looks".
4. Drill a small hole in the middle of each end cap (square 5" PVC post covers work well) big enuf to pass the bungee thru but not so big that the red ball goes thru.
5. Lay the 4-sided 5" post [~ 48" long] straight across the front tongue behind yer propane box..(if a Casita)'
6. Have a helper HOLD the post stationary and you get under the rig, cussing bks rain just began.. and draw lines along the tongue frame ON that post w a marker.
This will be the bottom side of the hose holder
7. next Turn it over and drill a total of 8 holes in that bottom side just outside the frame rail edges


*/ /* & same for other marked side..

smooth out the holes' edges a bit by rotating yer drill side to side & in a circular motion...just a little...to prevent chafing.
Make sure your 3/8" wide, heavy duty 18" Zip Ties will go thru the 8 holes.



8. Place post back onto tongue and get under rig again..
cuss more bks Rover just lifted his leg and peed on yer foot....line up all the lines you previously drew, and have yer helper hand you the 4 18" long 3/8" thick heavy duty zip ties. Make sure you buy UV resistant ties..they are black.
Pass them one by one UPwards thru a hole and then over to a hole inside the frame rail and back down..zip it tight around the frame rail.. repeat X4 IF yer buddy wil stop laughing, have him or her pass the ties across and back down thru a hole for you. Crawl out from under rig.

Next Pass the 'bungee w ball' thru that hole in the end cap, from OUTSIDE ...leaving the ball OUTSIDE.
Next, pass the bungee loop back into yer post and out thru that hole (in the rear side of that post)..secure that stretched, looped end outside the post with something...I used a big zip tie to 'fix' the loop outside..
Make sure it stretches the bungee enuf to hold the end caps ON but allow you to pull them loose to retreive the stinky slinky at will ;-)
Go ahead and drill 3-4 "vent' holes in the bottom of the post to allow air IN and water OUT.

This will make a strong rust-free mount. ;-)
IF you are OCD, you can now paint yer red balls white... we did not bother. ;-) Eventually yer stretched bungees will loosen and allow yer end caps to get loose. When that happens, jusat dismount yer old bungees and slip in new tight bungees and voila' thght caps again
Ours has worked well for 6000 miles so far.

BTW the hose is a good place to store the tank wash-out wand too. ;-)
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