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10-08-2024, 05:28 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Trailer: Boler 13 ft
Posts: 2,063
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Shore power plug has burns.
We stayed a week camping on shore power and was running an electric heater, fridge, water heater and a toaster, also the LED lights ... upon breaking camp I unplugged the power coard from trailer, with some difficulty and found the White socket was burnt. Why would this happen? We never lost power. Is this still safe to use or should I replace both the Male and Female plugs?
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10-09-2024, 06:41 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Trailer: 2008 Casita 17 ft Spirit Deluxe
Posts: 2,274
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Although you were operating many loads simultaneously, if you overloaded the trailer power cord, you would have simply tripped the breaker(s), either the Main, or other subsequent circuit feeding breakers. The fact that the breakers didn't trip tells me that you didn't draw too much power, but I would suspect that you have loose electrical connections at your plug prongs or loose wire terminal screws. They aren't making good contact and so that produces resistance to current flow. Remember that Resistance = Heat. Which would also explain your burnt plugs. Yes, I would recommend replacing them as they are not only making poor connections, but may have also compromised the cords ability to perform properly in the future. I would also trim back the wires a few inches when installing new plugs so that there is no indication of heat damage, (burnt or hardened insulation on the wires.) Start with wire ends that are in good shape. I'd trim each one back a few inches and make clean connections to all the plug wiring screws on your new ones.
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10-09-2024, 10:12 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Trailer: Bigfoot Silver Cloud 1988
Posts: 1,568
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We had a similar issue this summer, resulting in a partially melted plug and receptacle. I knew the prongs on the plug were somewhat corroded, but didn’t realize the amount of heat that would be generated by the extra resistance. I immediately changed both plug and receptacle!
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10-09-2024, 05:21 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Trailer: Boler 13 ft
Posts: 2,063
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Thanks Greg ... I suspected this loose connection once I went to unplug at the end of our camping and saw that there was heavy downward sag in the power cord going into the receptical. Replacement of the cord end is not a problem but the one in the trailer may be defficult as it is off to the side of the water heater and can not be seen from inside the trailer ... I do believe that maybe previous owner had put this plug in as there is a plate that the plug is mounted in that is 8X8 that I will take off and hopefully will have enough slack in the wire going to the converter to be able to replace the male end of the plug.
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10-09-2024, 06:07 PM
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#5
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Member
Name: Dan
Trailer: In the market
California
Posts: 75
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NEC calls for a derating of power usage from nominal and depending on the nature of the installation (e.g. conduit or free wire). The breaker is sized appropriately, but even if you run at this derated spec, if continuous for a ‘long time’ you can burn plugs and sockets. You can see this with EV installations of not done properly as they will pull rated power but do it constantly for hours. Heat is generated at the socket interface that can slowly cook it, without tripping the breaker.
It also depends on the socket used. They probably have something cheap and commonly available - those are rarely rated for continuous use. You generally need to spend a bit more money to get a socket that can handle continuous rated use, and you need to make sure of a good connection with cleaned pins and sockets. In my experience the cord side is usually fine, it’s the socket side that overheats.
So not much you can do other than don’t use so much power continuously, upgrade the socket and/or plug, or do it with cooler ambient temps.
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10-10-2024, 04:17 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Trailer: Boler 13 ft
Posts: 2,063
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I haven't really had time to inspect the trailer side of plug properly yet but I would still like to take it out and get a good look at it. The plug didn't just hang straight down on this week long camping trip because it would have laid in a puddle of water so I had it pulled a bit sideways, over the rear bumper. This strain may have caused the connection to arc.
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10-11-2024, 07:06 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Trailer: 2008 Casita 17 ft Spirit Deluxe
Posts: 2,274
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I replaced the silly little "spring snake in a can" shove the shore power cord back in the hole Shore Power hatch with a taller, (same width, just taller,) one so I could access the back side, (outside,) area behind the converter via a larger hatch cover. I also installed a Marine style twist lock removable shore power outlet, like I had on my yacht years ago, and reworked my shore power cord to make it a twist lock removable one, from the original hard wired cord the trailer came with. No more trying to put the gag-gift "coiled spring snake" shore power cord back into the silly little hatch. And no more ant/bug/mouse entry ramp walking up your shore power cord as an entry point to get inside your trailer. Now I just coil it up when shoving off and stow it. While I was at it I also added a hard-wired Progressive Industries EMS unit between the shore npower inlet and the Converter.
https://www.amazon.com/PROGRESSIVE-I...002UC6RSA?th=1
The hatch cover I installed is this one.
https://www.amazon.com/JR-Products-Z...BG/ref=sr_1_28
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10-11-2024, 07:25 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Name: Bill
Trailer: Lil Snoozy / Silverado
Pennsylvania
Posts: 446
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Not sure if this suggestion would have eliminated the problem but do you use a surge protector? I often see campers failing to utilize this important piece of equipment.
Also, I often see campers failing to use a pressure regulator on their water supply. These can be purchased for as little as $12.00. More than once I have seen campers very regretful for having not used this device in campgrounds with high water pressure resulting in damage to their plumbing.
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10-11-2024, 07:34 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Trailer: 2008 Casita 17 ft Spirit Deluxe
Posts: 2,274
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Yes Bill, and that is what I installed as well during my hatch mod, (also posted above.) I prefer this one to the portable surge protectors which hang on the power pole at your campsite, aka "steal me." Mine is hard-wired and inside a locked compartment hatch inside on the floor of the trailer behind the converter. Out of sight, out of mind, so potential theft is not an issue.
And yes, I have a pressure regulator for the water as well. I plug it in first just to see what the local water pressure is, and I often remove it because most camp areas are providing a weak water pressure to begin with, but I do check it first.
https://www.amazon.com/PROGRESSIVE-I...002UC6RSA?th=1
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10-11-2024, 10:26 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Name: Kenneth
Trailer: Scamp
Wisconsin
Posts: 1,969
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That sounds like quite a load
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gerry
We stayed a week camping on shore power and was running an electric heater, fridge, water heater and a toaster, also the LED lights ... upon breaking camp I unplugged the power cord from trailer, with some difficulty and found the White socket was burnt. Why would this happen? We never lost power. Is this still safe to use or should I replace both the Male and Female plugs?
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Pictures would help. Were you hooked to a thirty amp hook up with no adapters? If you were running all that on electric it may have been close to the limit and any pour connection can cause heat. I'd replace anything that looks melted so you have a fresh start for next time.
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10-11-2024, 05:26 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Trailer: Boler 13 ft
Posts: 2,063
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I failed to mention my Casita is a 69 and I am sure there has been many replacements done to it ... The cuby where this plug goes in is under the road-side bench and also in there is the insulated water heater / converter / battery / water pump, so to say getting to the back of this plug is imposible from inside the camper. I do use a surge protector that hangs off the pole but it has a lock on it with a cable. Again I haven't had a chance to look, busy doing firewood for the winter. I will get out there tomorrow to check the male end of the plug. If I can get it out I will replace with a screw on type plug to insure a fit that is snug at all times.
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10-12-2024, 01:35 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Trailer: 2008 Casita 17 ft Spirit Deluxe
Posts: 2,274
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gerry
I failed to mention my Casita is a 69 and I am sure there has been many replacements done to it ...
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1969? Casitas weren't even made back in '69. In fact, they weren't made until the '80's.
And if you have a Casita, why does your signature/avatar on the left of your posts say "Boler 13ft"
You may want to update that as well. Just sayin'.
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10-12-2024, 05:29 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Trailer: Boler 13 ft
Posts: 2,063
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Casita Greg
1969? Casitas weren't even made back in '69. In fact, they weren't made until the '80's.
And if you have a Casita, why does your signature/avatar on the left of your posts say "Boler 13ft"
You may want to update that as well. Just sayin'.
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opps slip of the finger ... 99 ... yes our first egg was a Boler 13 .. we upgraded to the freedom Deluxe when we went cross country.
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10-15-2024, 09:25 AM
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#14
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Senior Member
Name: Bill
Trailer: Lil Snoozy / Silverado
Pennsylvania
Posts: 446
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Casita Greg
And yes, I have a pressure regulator for the water as well. I plug it in first just to see what the local water pressure is, and I often remove it because most camp areas are providing a weak water pressure to begin with, but I do check it first.
https://www.amazon.com/PROGRESSIVE-I...002UC6RSA?th=1
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Yes I know off topic regarding water pressure regulator.
Recently returned from a trip out west and I did discover low to almost no water pressure in most campgrounds. Very different from the high water pressure I frequently find in the northeast.
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10-16-2024, 11:00 AM
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#15
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Senior Member
Name: Larry
Trailer: Casita17'Spirit Deluxe (aka: Tweaker's Casita)
Southwest Ohio
Posts: 352
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Casita Greg
... ... I would suspect that you have loose electrical connections at your plug prongs or loose wire terminal screws. They aren't making good contact and so that produces resistance to current flow. Remember that Resistance = Heat. Which would also explain your burnt plugs. ... ...
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To insure that my plug makes good contact with the pedestal's outlet, I usually give both the outlet and the plug a spritz of contact cleaner when I am setting up at a campsite.
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10-16-2024, 12:18 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Name: Ray
Trailer: scamp
Indiana
Posts: 1,062
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gerry
We stayed a week camping on shore power and was running an electric heater, fridge, water heater and a toaster, also the LED lights ... upon breaking camp I unplugged the power coard from trailer, with some difficulty and found the White socket was burnt. Why would this happen? We never lost power. Is this still safe to use or should I replace both the Male and Female plugs?
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Not sure what you are exactly talking about. But as is mention several times on the thread here: probably a bad connection. I think the idea inspecting everything is probably a great idea. But basically what happened is that you didn't get a good enough connection on at least one of the connections. And that produced enough resistance to cause it to overheat.
Anything that got overheated probably needs to be replaced. And then in the future probably keep a good eye out for corrosion.
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10-16-2024, 01:18 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Name: Jack
Trailer: Casita Liberty
Virginia
Posts: 676
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If you run an electric heater, for example, too long, it will overheat the wires and melt the electric socket without tripping the fuse. I think this happened to you.
__________________
Been with my sweetheart since 1969
2015 Chevy Colorado & 2019 Casita owner
If I won the award for laziness, I would send somebody to pick it up for me.
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10-16-2024, 01:24 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Name: Ray
Trailer: scamp
Indiana
Posts: 1,062
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Not unless the heater is taking the circuit overloaded.
As long as the draw is not more than the circuit is designed for you should not have a problem regardless of how long you have it going. The only way this would.melt the wires or socket is if they were not designed for the load.
So either it was under designed or it has/had a problem.
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10-16-2024, 02:53 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Trailer: Escape 17 ft Plan B
Posts: 2,422
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Quote:
Originally Posted by computerspook
Not unless the heater is taking the circuit overloaded.
As long as the draw is not more than the circuit is designed for you should not have a problem regardless of how long you have it going. The only way this would.melt the wires or socket is if they were not designed for the load.
So either it was under designed or it has/had a problem.
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The problem is a campground receptacle gathers a bit of damage from every bad connection made. Over time they eventually become loose enough that your plug makes a bad (high resistance) connection. That causes heat, further damaging the receptacle & your plug.
If you notice a loose connection when you first plug in, either find a different site, use an adapter to connect to the 50 amp connection (if there is one) or request that it be repaired.
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10-16-2024, 02:59 PM
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#20
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Senior Member
Name: Ray
Trailer: scamp
Indiana
Posts: 1,062
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon Vermilye
The problem is a campground receptacle gathers a bit of damage from every bad connection made. Over time they eventually become loose enough that your plug makes a bad (high resistance) connection. That causes heat, further damaging the receptacle & your plug.
If you notice a loose connection when you first plug in, either find a different site, use an adapter to connect to the 50 amp connection (if there is one) or request that it be repaired.
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Not sure if that is the connection being discussed, but dead on true and needed advice. And if the receptacle shows burning or has green inside the same thing applies.
I am thinking this might be the connection of the cord to the camper not the camp site being discussed because the person is discussing replacing both the receptacle AND the plug. So they seem to think that they control both.
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