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Old 04-05-2017, 04:20 PM   #21
Senior Member
 
Name: JD
Trailer: Scamp 16 Modified (BIGLY)
Florida
Posts: 2,142
The A/C is basting cool air, but it should be pulling warm or hot air out of the trailer.
The idea is that you recirculate the air, with each pass cooling it more.
If you have the intake and return too close you may be pulling the cool air out and not the warm air.
You may have to extend the return to near the top of the trailer to pull that hot air back to the air conditioner.
The cold air might be best directed to you, but if it goes to the bottom you should fill the trailer up with cold air, but then you may be gaining more heat than the A/C can remove.
Usually it is best to return the inside air to the A/C with the thought that it has been dehumidified reducing the total load on the A/C. Hopefully it is also cooler than the outside air.
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Old 04-06-2017, 03:55 AM   #22
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Name: Kelly
Trailer: Trails West
Oregon
Posts: 2,968
If you can prevent some of the solar gain build up by deflecting it from the exterior surface then you have much more of a fighting chance to be comfortable while you work.

Here is how I deal with keeping the heat under control. I also use my FGRV as an office/workshop space.

If you can keep the direct sun from hitting the glass on the exterior that will really help keep the heat build up in the interior under control. The window glass absorbs and holds onto the heat of the sun which of course then radiates that heat to the interior. I tape Reflectix on the exterior of the windows that are on the south and west side and it makes a significant difference in how hot my FGRV gets. Some people will also place Reflextic material across the exterior of the roof of the RV and that too makes a big difference. Of course you are not going to travel with it in place but your goal is stated as needed to keep cool while you are in it when parked in your driveway.

In the long run there are only so many degrees of cooling you can get out of a small air conditioner given its BTU output and the square footage. There should be some information online or in your manual stating how many degrees your unit can lower the temperature for "X" number of square feet. That testing will have been done in regards to the lowering of the temperature according to the ambient air temperature. So even on a hot day in the shade you can only get a limited number of degrees of relief out of an air conditioner.

My upgrade improvement this summer will be to install some special snap bases on the exterior by the windows and put the matching snap part onto some reflextic panels. That will allow me to quickly remove and install the window coverings. I have found that the mylar on it stays in pretty good condition for up to 3 years at which time I just cut new panels.

Sailrite - Fabric, Canvas, and Sewing Machines Since 1969 If the link is not direct go to sailrite.com and type "snads" in the search area. They are the special snaps I am going to install, they do not require any drilling of holes. They have VHB tape on the surface for mounting them. This version is being sold by Sailrite and they are rated for exterior use in a marine environment. I will only purchase the base piece of the SNAD which mounts to the trailer body. I can put a regular die mounted mating snap into the Reflextic panel which will have a square of reinforcing fabric front and backside at the places I install the snaps.

Here is an installation video for the Snads.
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Old 04-06-2017, 08:48 AM   #23
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Name: JD
Trailer: Scamp 16 Modified (BIGLY)
Florida
Posts: 2,142
The snaps are a great idea, I haven't seen this before.
Another thing that could be used is self stick Velcro in the appropriate places.
It sticks pretty well and can be replaced easily if needed.
We use the Reflectex or a moral equivalent for light duty pipe insulation here in the South at our water treatment plane.
It doesn't get colded enough to need the full blown heat tracing and insulation, but some heat tape and the reflectex takes care of the pipes wel below freezing and so far it has held up well in the harsh sun.
(The build specs don't call of the insulation because it only gets cold enough to freeze and burst pipes a couple of times a year!)
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Old 04-06-2017, 01:41 PM   #24
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Name: Cindy
Trailer: 1978 13' Scamp
California
Posts: 56
Quote:
Originally Posted by stevebaz View Post
The air conditioner you have may or not do the job but the way you have it wont work. You need to extend your hoses or raise the unit up on a pedestal at roof line and have the air conditioner hoses go through the roof vent. The discharge hose blowing out needs to be directly situated to blow into to your work area from above. The return duct needs to stay at the roof but extended so it sucks in the warm air furthest from the discharge but at the roof line.

Cold air drops to the floor, hot air rises so suck up the hot so it doesnt mix with the cold and let the cold air fall in your work space then mixes with the room air and as the air warms up it gets sucks out. You don't want hot air leaking in and you don't want cold air leaking out. Cooling the warm air going into the suction duct is much easier than cooling 100F air from outside. Open your roof vent, remove screen, put in your suction and discharge hose and then pack the opening with some soft foam like from a sofa cushion.

Any shading for the trailer will help as will light colors which is why these trailers are predominately white to reflect heat. Get a 10 X 10 or larger easy-up and extend the legs and put it over your trailer to block the heat of the day. Dual purpose, take it camping with you.
Hi Steve -- Thank you for your advice. It's logical and makes sense -- it is unfortunate that all the videos that Climate Rite have put on YouTube explaining the installation process don't allude to any idea related to ducting from the top of the trailer. I think they market it as a portable device to rest on your tow bar/fork and duct from the side. They also have limitations on the length of the ducting. I'll see if I can make adjustments!
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Old 04-06-2017, 01:43 PM   #25
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Name: Cindy
Trailer: 1978 13' Scamp
California
Posts: 56
Quote:
Originally Posted by redbarron55 View Post
The A/C is basting cool air, but it should be pulling warm or hot air out of the trailer.
The idea is that you recirculate the air, with each pass cooling it more.
If you have the intake and return too close you may be pulling the cool air out and not the warm air.
You may have to extend the return to near the top of the trailer to pull that hot air back to the air conditioner.
The cold air might be best directed to you, but if it goes to the bottom you should fill the trailer up with cold air, but then you may be gaining more heat than the A/C can remove.
Usually it is best to return the inside air to the A/C with the thought that it has been dehumidified reducing the total load on the A/C. Hopefully it is also cooler than the outside air.
Thanks for the information. I see what you're saying. I guess I figured the vent/return was insignificant since I was drawing the hot air out of the scamp with the reverse ceiling fan, and also thought most wall/window a/c didn't have a return.
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Old 04-06-2017, 01:49 PM   #26
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Name: Cindy
Trailer: 1978 13' Scamp
California
Posts: 56
Quote:
Originally Posted by k corbin View Post
If you can prevent some of the solar gain build up by deflecting it from the exterior surface then you have much more of a fighting chance to be comfortable while you work.

Here is how I deal with keeping the heat under control. I also use my FGRV as an office/workshop space.

If you can keep the direct sun from hitting the glass on the exterior that will really help keep the heat build up in the interior under control. The window glass absorbs and holds onto the heat of the sun which of course then radiates that heat to the interior. I tape Reflectix on the exterior of the windows that are on the south and west side and it makes a significant difference in how hot my FGRV gets. Some people will also place Reflextic material across the exterior of the roof of the RV and that too makes a big difference. Of course you are not going to travel with it in place but your goal is stated as needed to keep cool while you are in it when parked in your driveway.

In the long run there are only so many degrees of cooling you can get out of a small air conditioner given its BTU output and the square footage. There should be some information online or in your manual stating how many degrees your unit can lower the temperature for "X" number of square feet. That testing will have been done in regards to the lowering of the temperature according to the ambient air temperature. So even on a hot day in the shade you can only get a limited number of degrees of relief out of an air conditioner.

My upgrade improvement this summer will be to install some special snap bases on the exterior by the windows and put the matching snap part onto some reflextic panels. That will allow me to quickly remove and install the window coverings. I have found that the mylar on it stays in pretty good condition for up to 3 years at which time I just cut new panels.

Sailrite - Fabric, Canvas, and Sewing Machines Since 1969 If the link is not direct go to sailrite.com and type "snads" in the search area. They are the special snaps I am going to install, they do not require any drilling of holes. They have VHB tape on the surface for mounting them. This version is being sold by Sailrite and they are rated for exterior use in a marine environment. I will only purchase the base piece of the SNAD which mounts to the trailer body. I can put a regular die mounted mating snap into the Reflextic panel which will have a square of reinforcing fabric front and backside at the places I install the snaps.

Here is an installation video for the Snads.
I'm definitely going to try the Reflectex on the outer south and east facing window (west faces a fence and doesn't get sunlight on it). I'll look into the snads as well, thank you! I think I'm also going to try a less-expensive shading option with a pop-up or something just to test if shading works -- if I get good results I'll look into a nicer-looking shade system (sails, retractable awning, etc). I appreciate all the great advice from seasoned trailer owners!
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Old 04-06-2017, 06:42 PM   #27
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Name: JD
Trailer: Scamp 16 Modified (BIGLY)
Florida
Posts: 2,142
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Old 04-07-2017, 09:45 AM   #28
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Name: Kelly
Trailer: Trails West
Oregon
Posts: 2,968
Quote:
Originally Posted by morbank View Post
I'm definitely going to try the Reflectex on the outer south and east facing window (west faces a fence and doesn't get sunlight on it). I'll look into the snads as well, thank you! I think I'm also going to try a less-expensive shading option with a pop-up or something just to test if shading works -- if I get good results I'll look into a nicer-looking shade system (sails, retractable awning, etc). I appreciate all the great advice from seasoned trailer owners!
The issue with putting a popup over the top of the trailer for shade is you need to have sufficient air movement over the surface of the trailer to remove the heat that can build up underneath of the pop up tent. I know that on my little Campster which is not at all very tall when I have a pop up shelter over it that there is very little clearance space underneath and the hot air can get trapped inside of the shelter.

If you are going to get a popup shelter to put over it do get one that has a reflective, metalized, coating on the fabric surface as well as a vented peak to let the rising hot air escape outside up at the top of it. Those cost about $280.00 online from several sources. No point in causing even more trapped heat which can indeed happen.
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Old 04-07-2017, 09:54 AM   #29
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Name: Billy Sharpstick
Trailer: Scamp 13 - 2005
Florida
Posts: 143
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Quote:
Originally Posted by k corbin View Post
If you are going to get a popup shelter to put over it do get one that has a reflective, metalized, coating on the fabric surface.
I'll second that. I've been under a parachute "shade" structure, and it was like being in a greenhouse! (Cheap translucent tarps aren't much better.)And I've been under a completely opaque tarp and was in nice cool shade. Silver metallic tarp top is the best color.
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