Slow leak from grey water tank. - Fiberglass RV


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Old 08-12-2019, 09:33 AM   #1
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Name: zack
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Slow leak from grey water tank.

I managed to run over a small tree stump with our 2015 Scamp 13 and that started a slow leak from our grey water tank right around where the large drain pipe joins with the tank. I couldn't see any cracks or anything, but it does seem like maybe the seam opened up where the pipe to the gate valve exits the tank. So I was wondering, what is the best way to fix that? I am thinking the tank and pipe are ABS plastic? (It is kind of a drip every 3 seconds or so slow leak.)
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Old 08-12-2019, 09:52 AM   #2
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Here's a link to the Scamp site, and maybe the tank you have.

If it is polyethylene, it is probably not glueable, but if it is ABS, it should be. Maybe call Scamp.

https://www.scamptrailers.com/parts-...nk-detail.html
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Old 08-12-2019, 12:57 PM   #3
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It is ABS. What is the best way to repair that then? What particular adhesive and techniques seem to work well? I think the leak is probably in the seam.
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Old 08-12-2019, 02:48 PM   #4
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There should be a threaded fitting that goes into the tank. If that is the issue, it's a fairly simple remove and replace job. If the tank itself is damaged, and Scamp can't supply a suitable replacement, I would contact TAP Plastics for material and repair information. They have stores all over the west coast. Do it right the first time is a rule to follow here.
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Old 08-12-2019, 04:19 PM   #5
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The pipe just slides into the tank. (not threaded) Scamps seals it with silicone. You remove the old sealant and clean it up. I use alcohol and used black silicone to reseal it. There is a low spot on the tank where the pipe goes in that traps water. Jack up the trailer on the drain side to keep the water out of the joint until it cures. I also make a wood block to fit between the pipe and the floor and use a pipe strap to secure things tight. If I were to do another one I would use OSI Quad sealant, you can get it from the big box stores. It a butyl sealant that will seal even on wet surfaces. Like silicone it takes about 24 hours to cure and they are both non-workable. I have resealed three Scamp tanks with silicone and had no issues
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Old 08-12-2019, 05:06 PM   #6
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^^^^^^^
This is the right answer. The voice of experience.
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Old 08-13-2019, 09:35 AM   #7
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Quad max

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Originally Posted by Eddie Longest View Post
The pipe just slides into the tank. (not threaded) Scamps seals it with silicone. You remove the old sealant and clean it up. I use alcohol and used black silicone to reseal it. There is a low spot on the tank where the pipe goes in that traps water. Jack up the trailer on the drain side to keep the water out of the joint until it cures. I also make a wood block to fit between the pipe and the floor and use a pipe strap to secure things tight. If I were to do another one I would use OSI Quad sealant, you can get it from the big box stores. It a butyl sealant that will seal even on wet surfaces. Like silicone it takes about 24 hours to cure and they are both non-workable. I have resealed three Scamp tanks with silicone and had no issues
Eddie
Thanks Eddie. Do you mean this one?
OSI Sealants 1868684 9.5 oz Quad Max Window, Door and Siding Sealant, White
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Old 08-13-2019, 09:39 AM   #8
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jacking

I could jack up the drain side, put it on jack stands, chock the opposite wheel, and then crawl under and work on it: does that sound safe? Any advice?
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Old 08-13-2019, 10:14 AM   #9
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That's the sealant. It comes in a lot of colors. It's usually stocked in white and clear and a few other colors. Jack stands are safe on a flat solid surface. Just make sure the joint is dry when you seal it.

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Old 08-13-2019, 10:29 AM   #10
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The tank itself is likely cracked at the fitting since it is the thinner and weaker link.
I have had exactly the same experience and was able to seal it while on the road with silicone sealant.
When I got home I looked it over.


My Advice is....
For the best solution, replace the tank.
When you order it get the fitting kit with it.
You will save a bunch of aggravation.


Save the valve parts.
If you have a blackwater tank, the valve gets buildup over time which causes it to leak through and makes it difficult to cycle.
The graywater tank valve stays clean.
Use the old valve parts from the graywater to rebuild the blackwater tank valve. That's a small bonus from the replacement of the blackwater tank.
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Old 08-13-2019, 04:58 PM   #11
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Trailer: Sunland Express
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when I was servicing RVs I had a holding tank that had dragged over a stump splitting it over its entire length. I used a tool grinder and gouged the crack out and using a plastic welder, laid three beads of weld along the crack. Entire job took about one half hour. Saw the owner several years later and he stated it had never leaked a drop.
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Old 08-16-2019, 08:58 AM   #12
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Plastic

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Originally Posted by Bing M. View Post
when I was servicing RVs I had a holding tank that had dragged over a stump splitting it over its entire length. I used a tool grinder and gouged the crack out and using a plastic welder, laid three beads of weld along the crack. Entire job took about one half hour. Saw the owner several years later and he stated it had never leaked a drop.
Thanks Bing. That sounds great. (are you in Buellton perchance?)
I don't have a plastic welder, just a heat gun. I was thinking some JB Weld plastic bonder might work on a small crack. I have some syringes to inject it with.
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Old 08-16-2019, 09:00 AM   #13
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Replace

Quote:
Originally Posted by floyd View Post
The tank itself is likely cracked at the fitting since it is the thinner and weaker link.
I have had exactly the same experience and was able to seal it while on the road with silicone sealant.
When I got home I looked it over.


My Advice is....
For the best solution, replace the tank.
When you order it get the fitting kit with it.
You will save a bunch of aggravation.


Save the valve parts.
If you have a blackwater tank, the valve gets buildup over time which causes it to leak through and makes it difficult to cycle.
The graywater tank valve stays clean.
Use the old valve parts from the graywater to rebuild the blackwater tank valve. That's a small bonus from the replacement of the blackwater tank.
Thanks. Appreciate the advice!
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Old 08-16-2019, 09:01 AM   #14
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Name: zack
Trailer: scamp 13
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Heat gun

Quote:
Originally Posted by Eddie Longest View Post
The pipe just slides into the tank. (not threaded) Scamps seals it with silicone. You remove the old sealant and clean it up. I use alcohol and used black silicone to reseal it. There is a low spot on the tank where the pipe goes in that traps water. Jack up the trailer on the drain side to keep the water out of the joint until it cures. I also make a wood block to fit between the pipe and the floor and use a pipe strap to secure things tight. If I were to do another one I would use OSI Quad sealant, you can get it from the big box stores. It a butyl sealant that will seal even on wet surfaces. Like silicone it takes about 24 hours to cure and they are both non-workable. I have resealed three Scamp tanks with silicone and had no issues
Eddie
Is it okay to use a heat gun a little bit for the final drying after it is jacked up and drained?
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Old 08-16-2019, 03:49 PM   #15
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Hi Zack, No, I'm not in Buellton, I'm near Duluth, MN. Hope you solve your problem no matter which suggestion you choose to follow.
When I was asked what In was doing one time I said "repairing RVs".
Their reply was "what can go wrong with those?"
Me...silent eye roll.

Happy trails to you!
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Old 08-21-2019, 10:16 AM   #16
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Trailer: 2015 13' Scamp; tow vehicle: 2010 Ford Escape V6
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Dry it off. Apply 100% silicone caulk. Let dry.


There is very little water pressure to worry about.
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Old 08-21-2019, 10:29 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keweenaw Bob View Post
Dry it off. Apply 100% silicone caulk. Let dry.
There is very little water pressure to worry about.

I had a leak at my grey water tank where the outlet is. I tried caulk, but that only lasted until the trailer moved.
I was advised by Escape that the outlet pipe needed to be removed and replaced; that caulk would not do the job.
I had that done and now I have no leak. Not sure what sealant / glue they used to install the new pipe.
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Old 08-21-2019, 11:22 AM   #18
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Name: David
Trailer: Scamp 16
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ABS plastic patch

I had a leak in my scamp's grey tank and tried to patch it with silicone. Unfortunately for me, the patch did not hold. Next I tried making an ABS plastic patch by using ground up ABS mixed with ethanol. This work very well and made an incredibly strong patch and seal that bonded well with the ABS tank. I purchased the ABS material from icondirect.com. Here is the url:
https://www.icondirect.com/holding-t...ve-1-lb-black/
There are mixing instructions on this web page. Mixing the ABS with ethanol takes at least 24+ hours. I mixed the ABS & ethanol in a 1 quart paint can that I picked up at HD. You must seal the can while the ABS & ethanol are mixing so that the ethanol does not evaporate away. You should be able to 'stir' the solution after many hours of being mixed. Stir with something you plan to throw away after use.
Once the ABS was in it's guey state, I also mixed in some fiberglass threads from a piece of fiberglass mat patch material to add more strength to the patching gue. This stuff is very sticky. Use 2 layers of disposable gloves (or a pair of gloves you no longer expect to use) and pack the gue/glue abound the entire area. Be generous. You can work the patch for a short time. The acetate will evaporate quickly. As it evaporates the patch becomes firm, and then hard. Let the patch cure for at least 24 hours. Happy trails.
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Old 08-21-2019, 08:03 PM   #19
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Name: Ned
Trailer: 2017 Scamp 13' & 2016 Highlander
Iowa
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Hello Zack, sorry to hear about your grey water tank. I also own a 13' Scamp and had the same problem. I ordered a complete tank from Scamp at cost $319, and I installed it.

While I was repairing this I also added a 3" Riser to help avoid future problems. I think the small Scamps are too low and was tired of damaging things while pulling into camping sites. I recommend adding a low cost lift kit.

http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...uxe-89939.html

I think Etrailer sells a Lift Kit that will work for your Scamp. They have kits for Dexter Axles, and if you have a Lippert axle I think their part # LC270682 will work. Check with them to make sure.
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Old 08-21-2019, 11:36 PM   #20
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Yeah, if the plastic is weldable, and I believe ABS is, thats the way to go with *any* cracks. Joints, sure, use a silicone or whatever sealant.

A plastic welder is a lot like a old fashion soldering gun, but with a different tip. You grind the crack out in a 45 degree bevel, then melt in sticks of the same kind of plastic the tank is made of, and melt them right into original plastic. Properly done, the tank is good as new.
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