So...how do you convince someone to sell their trailer? - Fiberglass RV
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Old 06-27-2008, 10:22 AM   #1
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Trailer: 1960 28 ft Airstream
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Okay, I was driving around yesterday, and noticed an old fiberglass trailer, make unknown, from a distance, parked next to some other junky trailers and cars. Any ideas from those who have successfully convinced someone to part with their trailer cheaply? Any ideas on what to stay away from when trying to negotiate?

Pam
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Old 06-27-2008, 10:45 AM   #2
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I did a fair amount of knocking on doors when I was looking at trailers. Don't assume because the trailer looks abandoned it is - one couple that I have become friends with have a really beaten Trillium, but they take it out on logging roads to forestry sites so they feel there is no point in try to make it pretty.

What worked for me was saying something along the lines of "I am looking for an old XXXXXX trailer to restore, are you interested in selling yours"?. By indicating you have to "restore" I feel they will understand that you are looking to purchase it cheaply as it's in poor condition. Make sure you leave your number in case they become 'motivated to sell' later.
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Old 06-27-2008, 11:38 AM   #3
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Just show the the cash for the full amount you want to give them. But don't insult them with to low amount. Works every time for me. Like they say cash talks and BS walks. People do things on impulse.
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Old 06-27-2008, 02:09 PM   #4
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Just show the the cash for the full amount you want to give them. But don't insult them with to low amount. Works every time for me. Like they say cash talks and BS walks. People do things on impulse.
I agree
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Old 06-27-2008, 02:13 PM   #5
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lol, I don't know about y'all but when I pull out a few thousand in cash in front of people I don't really know things could get a little quirky.
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Old 06-27-2008, 03:03 PM   #6
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Make them an offer they can't refuse.
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Old 06-27-2008, 05:19 PM   #7
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Quote:
1. Any ideas from those who have successfully convinced someone to part with their trailer ...
2. ...cheaply?
3. Any ideas on what to stay away from when trying to negotiate?
I see the above as 3 separate issues.

The 1st thing I would do is to try to put myself in <strike>the mark's</strike> the [b]owner's place.
Remember that possession is 9/10 of the law...

How would you feel if YOU were the one being approached?
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Old 06-28-2008, 10:03 AM   #8
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Use www.nada.com when you are figuring a purchase price because NADA seams to be very low when it comes to fiberglass campers. Print the NADA page and present it at time of dealing. There are several prices when it comes to NADA, Trade in price, Selling outright price, Wholesale price, etc. Choose your price and be able to defend it to the seller and go forth in your negotiations. (NOTE: NADA has some very good descriptions about what is poor, normal, great conditions.)

You can also use Ebay sold pricing and compare it to NADA.

Should you be the seller, never mention NADA and be prepared to argue that NADA is always below the fiberglass selling price.
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Old 06-29-2008, 07:47 AM   #9
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I'd approach the potential seller knowing exactly what I could afford or want to pay. There's something in me that wouldn't allow me to purposefully misrepresent the value of a trailer. I realize ignorance is not a defense, but knowing what I know about the value of a trailer I'd feel like I'd be taking advantage of someone; other's call that bargaining. Any other way and I'd never feel good about what I owned. That's not to say, I'd go in and say something like "wow, you've got a high demand {article} here. Let the potential seller do the talking. If they were to say they don't know what it's worth and I wasn't interested in making the purchase, I'd give them a lesson in fiberglass trailer value.

This is me and only me, you may feel differently.
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Old 06-29-2008, 04:23 PM   #10
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I'd approach the potential seller knowing exactly what I could afford or want to pay. There's something in me that wouldn't allow me to purposefully misrepresent the value of a trailer. I realize ignorance is not a defense, but knowing what I know about the value of a trailer I'd feel like I'd be taking advantage of someone; other's call that bargaining. Any other way and I'd never feel good about what I owned. That's not to say, I'd go in and say something like "wow, you've got a high demand {article} here. Let the potential seller do the talking. If they were to say they don't know what it's worth and I wasn't interested in making the purchase, I'd give them a lesson in fiberglass trailer value.

This is me and only me, you may feel differently.
I agree with you mostly, however, I don't know about disclosing ebay successes and going rates being on the buyers side. however, NADA is a good idea, I did see that it was a burro, and while they weren't home, one of the neighbors shared that it was pretty rough, broken window in the back. (Maybe I can get it cheaply?) Anyone know of floor rotting problems, or is it like Uhaul with a fiberglass floor in the burro?
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Old 06-30-2008, 09:08 AM   #11
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lol, I don't know about y'all but when I pull out a few thousand in cash in front of people I don't really know things could get a little quirky.
I thought the idea was to buy it cheaply.
Flashing the cash is indeed the most sure-fire method. Nothing speaks louder and more persuasively than a fistfull of dead presidents.

If it's a grubby fixer-upper sitting in weeds the "thousands" isn't plural. (and most of the time the buying price would be hundreds not thousands)

I'd like to add that not everybody is internet savy...(strange but true). Not everybody knows about ebay. Not everybody knows how much these trailers are selling for on ebay or elsewhere. Your best hope is to find a owner like that.

If the trailer is dirty, neglected, and in general a eyesore, the more likely the owner dosen't know it's worth...or not it's "true" value. Value is a perception in the mind. What you may feel is valuable may be trash to someone else.

My point is this, do not educate the owner as to the value of the trailer. Because the "value" you may place on it is not what they may value it for. Otherwise it wouldn't be sitting in the back lot in the weeds being neglected.

If you walk into all this with a preconcieved opinion of what the trailer is worth you are automaticly setting too high of a price. Instead, go into it as offering to releave them of a burden and a eyesore, you may surprize them and yourself. Every penny you save is a penny toward restoring a diamond in the rough. And you can sleep real good when you find a bargain.

The bottom line in all of it is if you and the seller is satisfied on the price. Not Blue Book, Ebay, this forum, or anything else. If you both are happy, THAT'S the value of that trailer sitting in the weeds.

FYI, my Scamp was bought from a fellow who didn't have internet, he got his asking price, and I got a trailer worth a lot more than what it cost.

Good Luck,
ConwayBob
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Old 07-01-2008, 11:51 AM   #12
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I
If the trailer is dirty, neglected, and in general a eyesore, the more likely the owner dosen't know it's worth...or not it's "true" value. Value is a perception in the mind. What you may feel is valuable may be trash to someone else.

My point is this, do not educate the owner as to the value of the trailer. Because the "value" you may place on it is not what they may value it for. Otherwise it wouldn't be sitting in the back lot in the weeds being neglected.

Good Luck,
ConwayBob
Well, we finally got a chance to look at the poor thing. It definitely needs alot of TLC. The wife is going to have the husband call us and discuss price. I am not sure that its far better than the free one in California, but at least it has a door and only the back window is busted out... I thought I read something on floor repair on the burros, does anyone have a link? So, we will see what he comes up with...it needs to be rescued and have a good home...

Pam
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Old 07-01-2008, 12:53 PM   #13
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Well - here is what I did. I put a note on their mail box:

"
<span style="font-size:12pt;line-height:100%">To the owner of the 13’ Camper:</span>

<span style="font-size:12pt;line-height:100%"> </span>

<span style="font-size:12pt;line-height:100%">I seem to drive past your place every day and have noticed your 13’ Travel trailer in your driveway. I’m not sure if you’re interested in selling it, but I am looking for a 13’ trailer that I can do a bit of work on. Yours appears to need a bit of TLC to making it looking new again.</span>

<span style="font-size:12pt;line-height:100%"> </span>

<span style="font-size:12pt;line-height:100%">If you are interested in selling it, please let me know. I want to be fair and give an offer that we’re both happy with. If you are not, that’s OK too, these 13’ trailers are tough to find, and can turn out to be great little projects!</span>

<span style="font-size:12pt;line-height:100%"> </span>

<span style="font-size:12pt;line-height:100%">If you could let me know either way, that would be great!</span>

<span style="font-size:12pt;line-height:100%"> </span><span style="font-size:12pt;line-height:100%"> </span>

<span style="font-size:12pt;line-height:100%">Thanks for your time!</span>

Tim
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So - that is what I did, and I now have a 1972 Boler American in my driveway...
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Old 07-01-2008, 01:57 PM   #14
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Pam

The following is my own opinion and strictly for what it's worth...(which ain't much)

IMHO, Prices for used older eggs on ebay are grossly overpriced. What is selling for $3K+ is usually worth half that. Hype, scarcity, and demand is driving the prices they sell for, making it a sellers market.

BUT...
Using that $3000 as a base price for a used 10-15 year and older egg...

For $3000 you should be able to drive off and camp immediately in it. All appliances and cabin is clean and functional. The Axle, tires, battery, porpane tank, all accessories clean, fresh or new. Any wear & tear issues should be superficial and minimal. No major problems at all.

For $1500 the trailer should still be clean and roadworthy, however tires, axles, floorboard, and minor body dings, ect. would be needing attention.

$1000 - $1500 Roadworthy, but with problems needing attention before you would tow or camp. If it needs cleaning, it needs a lower pricetag. Nothing is worth $1000 if you gotta clean out mold, or replace carpet, curtains, or seat cushions just to sit in it safely.

$500 - $1000 Not roadworthy, not clean, appliances missing or broken, obvious frame corrosion, dead axle, floor rot.

$300 - $500 Not roadworthy, rotten frame, rotten floor, trailer requires total overhaul. If the fiberglass body is sound, everything else can be replaced.

The way you are describing it, you will need major work to bring this trailer back to life, especially with a missing window. A open window means watersoaked interior woodwork and fabrics, and practically means a rotten carpet, floor, and quite likely a rotten frame. The big deciding factor will be if it's towable in it's present state. Tires, frame & axle will be the key.

Again this is just my humble uninformed opinion, but if I was going into this I would start by offering $300 to haul it away, and walk away from it if they won't go lower than $800. Always bring cash to close. You may need to haul it off on a low-boy...they don't rent cheap. Start a expense ledger.

Always keep in mind there are THREE things that factor in the overall cost...the trailer cost, the materal costs to restore, and your labor cost in time and talent. Be realistic about your time and talent...how much is your time worth, & how much would it cost to hire someone with the talent to do a particular job instead of you. Most projects fail because people don't consider this, and end up taking on more than they care to or can handle.

On the other hand...If you are looking at this as a great adventure, a fun project, or as a worthwhile endevor, then dive in! From my perspective, I've considered my purchase of my Scamp as one of my rare smart ideas. (Very Rare!) It's fun and extremely rewarding to bring one of these little eggs back to life, and it makes the trailer all the more YOURS.

Good Luck,
ConwayBob
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Old 07-01-2008, 02:56 PM   #15
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The ConwayBob article above should be saved on this site in the tutorial section.
It provides most valuable information that I think is correct and true.

to ConwayBob and from DR
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Old 07-03-2008, 10:26 AM   #16
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We are so excited...got the trailer, at the price we offered, got it for a song. I think the trick to walking up to someone and asking, is to just do it. The wife said the husband was the decision maker, but fortunately we were painfully polite to both, and come to find out, the trailer was in her name. It needs alot of work, but cleans up nicely, and will need alittle less work than we thought. I think we will be able to stay away from floor replacement. However, Conway Bob, How do I support the floor from underneath by the door effectively without welding a new support?

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Old 07-03-2008, 07:03 PM   #17
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...Conway Bob, How do I support the floor from underneath by the door effectively without welding a new support?
I'm sorry, I'm not familar with a Burro's Frame and fortunately have not had to mess with my frame. Flooring yes, framing no.

However...

I would expect there are crossmembers in the frame that you can run a stringer in between. And I'd say in general, to do it right, you use the same materal that's in the frame. meaning welding some angle iron between two crossmembers.

Your only alternative is wood, & using wood bracing in that area is providing a weak spot that would or could fail. It's obvious that the first two steps inside that door is the most Hi-traffic spot in the trailer and needs strong support. Unfortunately your support is on the underside of the trailer...where all that yucky, rain, sleet, and mud is at. Unless you dip that wood brace in tar, eventually it'll rot, and you'll only have to fix it again. Adding iron is the lightest, strongest, and longest-lasting choice.

The length of your brace also plays a part. Where are your nearest crossmembers? Or would you be running your brace across the trailer, from doorsill to centerline, or all the way over to the streetside sill. Your shortest run is always the strongest.

Compare strengths...2" angle iron beats a 2"x4" all day long.

I'm sorry Pam, I'd invite a welder to lay in some iron before I'd use lumber. And weld, not attach with bolts & nuts. You drill holes in your frame, and you'll eventually get a crack or corrosion, plus nuts & bolts come loose faster than any good weld I've ever seen.

Are you sorry you asked? <_<
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Old 07-04-2008, 06:26 AM   #18
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Maybe some of these will help?
13' Burrow frame repair.
'81 burro 13' rebuild has begun

This one has pictures right at the door area showing frame fixes:
TOTAL MAKEOVER - LilBurro

There's probably more, search may help you.
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Old 07-04-2008, 10:43 AM   #19
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Maybe some of these will help?
13' Burrow frame repair.
'81 burro 13' rebuild has begun

This one has pictures right at the door area showing frame fixes:
TOTAL MAKEOVER - LilBurro

There's probably more, search may help you.
Donna to the rescue! Thanks!
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