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Old 11-24-2015, 07:36 PM   #21
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That will work. The idea is not to jack the trailer up. It is to provide support at the corners.
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Old 11-24-2015, 07:46 PM   #22
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I like Steve's idea best. Better adjustment than a jack stand and lighter, too. Scissors jacks are slow to adjust and clumsy unless you mount them permanently. Glenn is correct- don't use stabilizers to lift the trailer. Raising one corner at a time can tweak the frame. Do all the lifting with the tongue jack. Stabilizers are just to take the wobble out.

BTW- always use the rear stabilizers when you unhitch. Without them, one person too many sits down in the rear dinette, and whoop-de-doo... tongue up, bumper down...
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Old 11-24-2015, 07:53 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by TheWanderers View Post
Hadn't considered that issue...whew! Glad I asked...but that from tongue jack is really wobbly. What can/should be done to take the stress off the tongue jack?
You need not fret about stress on the tongue jack, or frame. Unless you weigh a lot more that the "average" person. It is designed for that.
You can add stabilizer jacks at the front corners of the body, or just use a screw type scissor jack, from a your car, under the frame rail near the camper door so it doesn't rock when you are getting in or out.
I replaced the Factory "kick stands" at the rear with BAL single leg screw jacks, and also added a pair at the front - which we only deploy if we are setting up camp for more that one or two days.
To put on the BAL's I had to add steel cross members to support them. They are all bolted on so no welding was required.
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Old 11-24-2015, 08:06 PM   #24
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The Wanderers,

You mentioned in three messages that the jack is wobbly, insecure, leaning, etc. I would take a good look at that jack before I bothered with the stabilizers. The jack is not supposed to be anything like that, if it is, there is something structurally wrong with it. It could break when hitching up or unhitching the trailer and land on your feet.

The immediate problem is with the jack, not the stabilizers.

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Old 11-24-2015, 08:13 PM   #25
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Agree. Check that jack.
I am often too lazy to deploy the stabilizers ( front or back ) if only staying overnight ( or if it's raining ).
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Old 11-24-2015, 08:31 PM   #26
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Jon, you are right about side mounted fold-a-way tongue jack. Very wobbly and insecure. I believe I will look into some stabilizers for the front. I like the idea of scissor jacks. I already have jack stands for working on a car but they only allow set adjustments between one inch increments. Do you think that these could be pressed into service or should we just get the scissor jacks?
Neither one.

The jack stands can't be adjusted properly and the scissors jack is only stable in one plane, front to back or side to side.

RV Stabilizers, a four cornered pyramid, with an adjustable screw in the center are readily available at Wal-Mart, Auto Supply Stores and all RV parts sources. You can buy them in sets of 2 or 4.

https://jet.com/product/detail/2d5f3...FQ2HaQodJ-gF1A



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Old 11-24-2015, 08:47 PM   #27
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Issue with those jack stands is the space they take.
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Old 11-24-2015, 08:59 PM   #28
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I have a folding step platform that we put outside the door when stopped. When travelling the step is upside down on the floor and the stands are stored inside. "0" space used for storage.
Step Stool/Working Platform
(we shortened the legs about 50%)


The question was about using auto jack-stands vs scissor jacks, both use space and both are a bad idea.



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Old 11-24-2015, 09:06 PM   #29
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I don't need a step. It's attached to the trailer frame, and so are the stabilizers, so they take up no space that I need. I was just noting that jack stands take storage space.
Mine are not scissor jacks. They are arms ( or legs, if you want to argue ) that screw down to stabilize the trailer.
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Old 11-25-2015, 06:26 AM   #30
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I don't need a step. It's attached to the trailer frame, and so are the stabilizers, so they take up no space that I need. I was just noting that jack stands take storage space.
Mine are not scissor jacks. They are arms ( or legs, if you want to argue ) that screw down to stabilize the trailer.
I just added these to my LiL Snoozy. They work great.
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Old 11-25-2015, 07:24 AM   #31
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I like Steve's idea best.:
Since Jon encouraged me...
The jacks are another thing to store but I would point out the screw mechanism detatches (it will fall out)and the frames nest reducing the space impact. Also, don't pack all four...

On deploying, rather than adjust the stabilizer under load, get it close, then give the tongue jack a couple of turns, give the stabilizer a final adjustment and back down the tongue jack as many turns as you raised it.

I'll probably end up mounting permanent stabilizers, someday, but this is working out pretty well for $30.
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Old 11-25-2015, 09:00 AM   #32
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The Wanderers,

You mentioned in three messages that the jack is wobbly, insecure, leaning, etc. I would take a good look at that jack before I bothered with the stabilizers. The jack is not supposed to be anything like that, if it is, there is something structurally wrong with it. It could break when hitching up or unhitching the trailer and land on your feet.

The immediate problem is with the jack, not the stabilizers.

Jim
Jim, I agree and that is going to be the first thing that we address because of the obvious safety issues. I looked at it last night after work but it was too dark to really do anything. I believe I'm going to put jack stand under the tongue just to ease the strain on the tongue jack while we figure out what's the issue. Thanx for your input.
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Old 11-25-2015, 09:34 AM   #33
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Jim, I agree and that is going to be the first thing that we address because of the obvious safety issues. I looked at it last night after work but it was too dark to really do anything. I believe I'm going to put jack stand under the tongue just to ease the strain on the tongue jack while we figure out what's the issue. Thanx for your input.
If it's a welded-on side mount type, I recall reading somewhere on here that you can buy a replacement and swap out the guts, no welding required (assuming, of course, that the mounting bracket is not the problem).
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Old 11-25-2015, 09:44 AM   #34
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If it's a welded-on side mount type, I recall reading somewhere on here that you can buy a replacement and swap out the guts, no welding required (assuming, of course, that the mounting bracket is not the problem).
Jon, I'm going to put the jack stand under the tongue and complete a thorough exam of the existing jack stand to see where/if there is any weakness. It could simply be age, but as has been pointed out, it's a major safety issue. I'm afraid I may find its the mount point so I'm going to be careful until we get this sorted out.


Edit:


First: I went home at lunch and put the Craftsman Jack Stand under the tongue and stopped long enough to take a good look at the situation. I believe that my jack stand is leaning because of the angle on which the trailer is parked. I didn't take time to level side to side so the tongue is attempting to follow the slope of the hill.


Second: The tongue jack stand seems to be properly attached/welded to the mount point and their seems to more than a little welding work that has been done to reinforce the tongue area from the hitch point back and under the Scamp body. I'll get pictures later.


Third: I'm gonna need some instruction on how to level from side to side and have looked at some of the recommendations for various methods and equipment that others have suggested. I like the idea of the Anderson levelers but can't wrap my head around how they work.


So, I don't think we're as bad off as I originally believed. It's just my noob lack of experience and that's easy enough to over come if I can live long enough without making any serious mistakes. Just kidding...
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Old 11-25-2015, 08:54 PM   #35
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Bill, check out this You Tube video on the Anderson:

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Old 11-27-2015, 07:43 AM   #36
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I always forget of incredibly helpful YouTube can be for so many things, like this. Deploying them seems very simple. However, do you always use this on both sides? Or, is this an as needed, depending on terrain, equipment? Thanx
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Old 11-29-2015, 05:09 PM   #37
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I am a noobie too. I just bought a Scamp not long ago and got an Anderson Leveler. The thing is super easy to use. Last week was my first time using the trailer. I brought a small, say 8 inch long level with me. I checked for level in front of the trailer on top of the belly band, then put the Anderson leveler behind whatever wheel needed to come up, and backed on to it until I was level. You asked if you have to use it on both sides. If I understand your question correctly, no you just use on the side that needs to go up to make the trailer level. On the other side, as in other wheel, I put a chock block. In the case of both campsites I was in, the ground was not that sloped, so I only had to back on to the first part of the Anderson, so I was about an inch up. I am not sure what kind of trailer you have, but with my Scamp, the first time I tried to use this, I tried to drive forward over the Anderson. Well that was a mistake as it got lodged between the tire and the frame, kind of underneath the main door. I ended up having to jack the wheel up with my Tow vehicle jack to get it dislodged, so though this thing is damn simple, I still still found a way to do it incorrectly with my trailer. Now every time, I back on to it.
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Old 11-29-2015, 05:44 PM   #38
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Yo, HappyScamper! Thanks for that good advice. We haven't been out yet in our '93 Scamp because we're still working on making it road ready, but I sure do appreciate your advice. Happy Trails!
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Old 11-29-2015, 08:45 PM   #39
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Front-to-back at the tongue, side-to-side at the wheels. Stabilizers to stabilize, not lift.
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Old 11-30-2015, 12:00 AM   #40
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Agree. Check that jack.
I am often too lazy to deploy the stabilizers ( front or back ) if only staying overnight ( or if it's raining ).
And if staying only overnight I'll level as best I can without unhooking from the car.
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