Stablizing/Leveling Trailer While Camping

[HAPPYSCAMPER76]

Hello,

Been seeing photos of eggs while camping with various jacks, leveling devices, wheel chalks, etc.

Other than having the trailer tongue wheel jack on the ground, and the two rear built in stabilizers on my 13' scamp down, should i be putting jack stands underneath other areas of the frame/scamp?

Also, do most people use wheel chalks?

Furthermore, I have seen lots of different leveling kits. like these to level side to side. Kind of leaning toward the Anderson 3604 Camper Leveler.

http://http://www.amazon.com/gp/prod...k_ql_qh_dp_hza

http://http://www.amazon.com/Camco-4...rds=rv+leveler

http://http://www.amazon.com/Tri-Lyn...rds=rv+leveler



Finally, do some of you put a small level on the tongue or elsewhere to know when your trailer is level front and back, or do you just eyeball it?

Thanks, Bryan

[OneOleMan]

For a leveler, (side to side), I use the Andersen 3604 Camper Leveler which acts both as the side to side leveler but also the wheel chalk on one side. Using one of these is so much easier than lego blocks. Yes, use wheel chalks on both sides.

Amazon.com: Andersen-3604 Camper Leveler: Automotive

Center small bubble levels right above the belly band both on the side and the front of your Scamp. But do this only after you have verified your Scamp's refrigerator, or floor if you don't have a 'fridge, is level.

Now it's time to get out and have fun.

[emij]

We have a stick on level on the front and the door side (and one above the fridge) that the previous owner put there. Makes it super handy for leveling. Something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Hopkins-Towing...camper+leveler

Our first couple of camping trips, we only used the front tongue jack and the rear stabilizers, but it felt "bouncy" to me, both when we walked inside and when kids rolled over in the bunks at night. We decided to try a couple jacks on each front corner, under the frame, and it makes a world of difference. We use them every time, now! We also use the leveling blocks when needed.

[HAPPYSCAMPER76]

Thanks so much, these were exactly the answers I was looking for.
Bryan

[Morganza]

I've come to really like this round, stick-on level. The glue on the side mount levels tended to sag and become inaccurate over time. This one stays put. I don't remember where I got it. Probably Amazon.

I'm also a big fan of the Anderson 3604 leveler. They work great and are kind of fun to deploy!

[Wayne Collins]

First, the word is spelled C H O C K. chalk is for marking on blackboards.

Always level side to side first. with blocks under the low side tire.
Place chocks front & back of both wheels.
Unhitch from the TV
Lower or raise the hitch jack to level fore--aft.
Drop the rear stabilizers and apply enough pressure on them to reduce rocking.
you will want to have a couple of wood or plastic blocks under the stabs, especially in soft ground.
You can carry a scissor jacks to add under the front right corner, under the frame rail, to reduce rocking when you step in or out of the doorway.

[Bob Miller]

Originally Posted by Morganza

I've come to really like this round, stick-on level. The glue on the side mount levels tended to sag and become inaccurate over time. This one stays put. I don't remember where I got it. Probably Amazon.

I'm also a big van of the Anderson 3604 leveler. They work great and are kind of fun to deploy!

Before attaching any levels I always carefully level the trailer until the refrigerator is perfect, and then I attach the stick-on levels accordingly.

Gotta say, you would have to luck out using the Bulls-Eye levels as you would have to find a place on the frame that matches the refrigerator, which is not always parallel to the frame, floor or counters. Larger Bulls-Eye levels have mounting screws around the edge and can be shimmed to match the level reading you need.

[Roger C H]

One of the reasons we don't have a refrigerator.

I understand that the refrigerator is the only thing that has to be leveled.

Perhaps some tanks, black, grey, fresh may need it, but I don't think they are as critical as the refrig.

We have none of those, either.

[Bob Miller]

Actually, I need to be level as well....... so my bottles of adult beverages don't slide off into my lap or, worse yet, onto the floor.... LOL

[Byron Kinnaman]

Here's my method and stuff.
I pull or back into a camp site. Position the trailer where I want it.
LEVELING PROCESS --
1. I have levels mounted on the outside. Look at the one on front.
2. Take out the BAL Small Trailer Wheel Leveler. Put under the low side wheel (it slides under)
3. Crank it up until the trailer is level side to side.
4. Unhook the trailer from the tow vehicle and move the tow vehicle out of the way.
5. Lower the front of the trailer with the tongue jack until the front is about 1/2 bubble low.
6. Deploy the rear Atwood stabilizers making sure they are in contact with ground.
7. Crank up the front with the tongue jack until the trailer is level front to back.
8. Now I light the fridge and pull out a cool beverage and a camp chair. All set to watch what ever vegetation is around grow.

All that takes around 10 minutes.

[Morganza]

Originally Posted by Bob Miller

Before attaching any levels I always carefully level the trailer until the refrigerator is perfect, and then I attach the stick-on levels accordingly.

Gotta say, you would have to luck out using the Bulls-Eye levels as you would have to find a place on the frame that matches the refrigerator, which is not always parallel to the frame, floor or counters.

Yeah, I did luck out on mine. The tongue plate levels perfectly with my fridge. I was amazed.

It's my understanding that leveling the newer model Dometic fridges is not as critical as on older models. I don't know on which model this change took place.

[Timber Wolf]

I back into site to where I like things. Check level side-to-side and if close or slightly uphill on side our heads are on when sleeping I leave things alone. I use a small torpedo level on the belly band. Since I have a 12V compressor refrig perfectly level is not required. If I need to level I deploy blocks under the appropriate (low) side (I recently bought the Lego style to sub for the scrap wood I had been using). Unhook, level front the back with tongue jack and drop rear stabilizers.

I usually have to add at least a 2X4 under each rear jack to reach the ground. With one of my feet on a stabilizer foot I pick up on the rear bumper of the Scamp to set the stabilizer, then repeat on the other side. Then, I put a screw jack under the trailer frame at the door, a noted weak point in the frame that I have noticed bows down when somebody enters or leaves the trailer. So far, I have not forgotten to remove this jack before departing a campsite, but have when pulling out at home.. The jack fell over and the axle cleared it so no harm no foul.

To be honest, down here in the deep Sout' (South) most of the sites I find are close enough as is (believe it or not). I will admit that have been in some that used all the scrap I was carrying though which is why I treated myself to the Legos.

[Bob Miller]

Originally Posted by Morganza

Yeah, I did luck out on mine. The tongue plate levels perfectly with my fridge. I was amazed.

It's my understanding that leveling the newer model Dometic fridges is not as critical as on older models. I don't know on which model this change took place.

That's easy to determine.

Looking at the back of the refrigerator, there is a tall metal Boiler Cover on the right side of the back of the refrigerator. It is either curved in shape or has square edges.

Curved Shape = Late style. Level enough for comfort is OK and, if it is run out of level, while it can stop cooling, it will self correct after being shut down and level for 4-6 hours.

Square Edge Shape = Early style. Can permanently damage the cooling circuit if run out of level for a long period of time (about 1-2+ hours). Some damage is additive and poor cooling may have been caused by earlier abuse.

[TheWanderers]

Ok, but here's my question: does everyone use the tongue jack to level front to back or do you add stabilizer jacks to the front? And if you add them, how to get them under with the rear jacks set? Maybe you're using scissor jacks? Never camped before and have our new-to-us Scamp set up in the side yard at home and it seems wiggly on the tongue and the tongue jack doesn't seem all that stable, like leaning to some degree and makes me nervous enough to want to replace the side jack with a center mount jack. Little help for the noob here?

[Byron Kinnaman]

Originally Posted by TheWanderers

Ok, but here's my question: does everyone use the tongue jack to level front to back or do you add stabilizer jacks to the front? And if you add them, how to get them under with the rear jacks set? Maybe you're using scissor jacks? New camped before and have our new-to-us Scamp set up in the side yard at home and it seems wiggly on the tongue and the tongue jack doesn't seem all that stable, like leaning to some degree and makes me nervous enough to want to replace the side jack with a center mount jack. Little help for the noob here?

I don't use stabilizers of any kind on the front. One of possible, note I said possible, results of using stabilizers on the front is twisting the frame, which could do permanent damage to the frame.

[TheWanderers]

Originally Posted by Byron Kinnaman

I don't use stabilizers of any kind on the front. One of possible, note I said possible, results of using stabilizers on the front is twisting the frame, which could do permanent damage to the frame.

Hadn't considered that issue...whew! Glad I asked...but that from tongue jack is really wobbly. What can/should be done to take the stress off the tongue jack?

[Glenn Baglo]

Huh?
All Escape trailers come with front and rear stabilizers. They are stabilizers, not jacks, so you would not ever be applying enough pressure to bend a frame. If you did, it's the stabilizer that would give out first.
I deploy all four stabilizers, after leveling the trailer side to side and then front to back, using the tongue jack.
Pic shows front stabilizer.

[Jon in AZ]

If your tongue jack is wobbly, and especially if you have one of the side mount fold-away tongue jacks, I think front stabilizers are a great idea. As long as you use two, one on each side of the tongue, no danger of twisting the frame.

Procedure is:
1. Level side-to-side with blocks and chock the wheels.
2. Unhitch and pull the vehicle forward.
3. Level front to back with the tongue jack.
4. Drop the front several turns, deploy the rear stabilizers, then raise the front back to level.
5. (Optional) Place front stabilizers under the A-frame near the cabin, then lower the tongue to transfer weight to the stabilizers. Leave the tongue jack down.

[TheWanderers]

Jon, you are right about side mounted fold-a-way tongue jack. Very wobbly and insecure. I believe I will look into some stabilizers for the front. I like the idea of scissor jacks. I already have jack stands for working on a car but they only allow set adjustments between one inch increments. Do you think that these could be pressed into service or should we just get the scissor jacks?

[PC Steve]

http://www.amazon.com/Camco-44560-Ol...+trailer+jacks

I use one of these under each front corner, tightened just enough to provide support after I have leveled the trailer using the rear stabilizers and tounge jack. It firms up the trailer nicely.