Starting work on Trillium 1300 - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 01-14-2019, 08:34 PM   #21
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Name: bill
Trailer: 2013 Escape 19; 1977 Trillium 1300
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Another choice is to just get the windows sealed well with new screws, replaced rotten wood and butyl tape.

If/when later when you decide to paint just pull the windows again. Pulling them a second time should be a lot easier and much faster and wood should be fine.
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Old 01-14-2019, 09:17 PM   #22
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Name: Brian
Trailer: 1980 Trillium 1300
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Originally Posted by David Tilston View Post
Brian, Don't worry. This is a common problem with Trilliums. A design flaw in my opinion. I am not sure if the microwave is responsible, or just snow load. It is actually worse on the 4500 models. They have a longer roof, and less height to the trolley roof. Every one I have seen pools water above the kitchen. Jim Bennett purchased a 1300 that had it bad:
http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...lin-67367.html
It's funny, I remember there being a visible angle to the vertical part of the trolley roof, but it doesn't show in the pictures.

The point is that what you need is a couple of supports on either side of the kitchen, and time. Fibreglass is quite plastic, (no pun intended). It will deform, but it can be pushed back into shape. Take it easy. Jack up the roof a bit, then wait a couple of days and jack some more. Don't go too fast, or it will break. Warm days seem to help. once the roof is high enough, put in more permanent supports. This process may also help with the kitchen counter sloping back. The assumption that I am making is that the pontoon under the kitchen has also deformed, (sagged). and the back of the kitchen is now lower then it should be. Trillium really should have put supports there to begin with.

There is another spot forward of the roof vent. Mostly on 4500's, but also on 1300's. The roof will go concave. If you push on it it will pop back up, but then come back down when you let go. My theory is that the roof vent causes a gap in the structure, allowing this to happen. I found that if I supported this section from the inside over a long period of time, then it would stay up, even when not supported.

Also for all the other Trillium, (fibreglass trailer?) owners out there. It is a good idea to support the roof, from the inside, anytime you are not using it. This will protect against snow loads, or any other load on the roof. In the case of a Trillium, I would cut a 1/4" sheet of plywood to fit the arched trolley section and wedge 2x2 lumber between that plywood, and another couple of plywood sheets on the floor. One sheet at the kitchen level and another at the dinette level. If you want to get fancy, Princess Auto sells support rods:
https://www.princessauto.com/en/deta...od/A-p8660292e
But I would never pay that much. The ones I got were on the order of $15, and included a hand jack mechanism.

I hope that helps.
All very good advice, thanks David. I will try that when the weather gets a little more cooperative. I am always reminded in such instances about the unreasonable relief that I feel knowing that others also have the same problems as me. I'm hoping to eventually create a sheltered winter home, but for now we have some very generous friends who are letting me work on it in their heated barn/workshop

I've also put in an order for some new window seals and screw covers, so I'll hopefully have the windows reinstalled within the next week or so. Still have to pull three more - really not looking forward to the front one. In the mean time I'll see about paint options. Thanks again everyone!
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Old 01-28-2019, 06:06 PM   #23
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Fiberglass cut short on window opening

I don't know if this is the right place to post, but I figured since its about my work I would post in this thread and hope someone sees it. I feel weird creating new threads for all my problems.

So all my windows are off. I cleaned them up and got all the silicone and butyl off of the camper and windows and am ready to put them back on. The one problem that I encountered is that on the front window, the opening was cut by the factory too big by about 1/4 -1/2 inch. The cut line actually passes through a few of the screw holes on the driver side. I was reading a post by Randy J a while back and he spent the time to put new fiberglass in the opening.
I'm not sure if this is necessary though, and would appreciate input. What I am thinking is that the fiberglass just gets sandwiched between the inside PVC (in my case) and the aluminum window and that any water infiltration will be blocked by the butyl. I can't see why I would need to add more fiberglass just to close the window opening a little more towards the edge. Is adding just a quarter or half inch of fiberglass to the edge going to make a difference? Am I missing something or does this make sense?

I tried to take pictures, but my phone died in the process. I thought it was on there, but its not.
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Old 01-28-2019, 07:03 PM   #24
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Brian, even though the window opening will be backed with cellular PVC trim, I would recommend extending the fiberglass edge with either more fiberglass, or at a minimum with an epoxy or other solid filler. My reason is that the aluminum flange is relatively soft, and unless it is backed up with solid material it will sag when the screw is tightened.
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Old 01-31-2019, 06:35 PM   #25
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Brian, even though the window opening will be backed with cellular PVC trim, I would recommend extending the fiberglass edge with either more fiberglass, or at a minimum with an epoxy or other solid filler. My reason is that the aluminum flange is relatively soft, and unless it is backed up with solid material it will sag when the screw is tightened.
Ok, Iím convinced. Iíll try to fix it. So among the fibreglass veterans, can anyone suggest steps for how to proceed? Iíve never fiberglassed anything before, but iím willing to give it a try. Do i work from the front or back first? If working from the back, do i still need to sand it back a bit or can I just leave a strip extended past the edge and then just add strips of mat on the front? Polyester resin right? And lastly, does it matter that the garage Iím working in tops out at around 50 deg F? And hereís a picture to show what Iím working with
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Old 01-31-2019, 07:21 PM   #26
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Brian, I believe the existing edge needs to be tapered and then bridged to the "new edge" using layers of fiberglass mat. Here is a link to a good thread to get you started. Don't know why it has the wrong title.

http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...ass-52498.html

I have also found that the "Boatworks Today" youtube channel has a very skilled craftsman that demonstrates and explains fiberglass repair techniques very well, as well as identifying what products he uses for different applications, and why and how.

EDIT: As far as my own experience with FG, I have tackled a few repair projects (sealed center band, closed up LARGE and small holes, reinforced cracks) on my two eggs in the past year, but am still a novice.
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