Subfloor repair…NOT replacement - Fiberglass RV
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Old 08-21-2021, 01:33 PM   #1
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Subfloor repair…NOT replacement

Spent some time on the phone today with Eddie L (thanks SO much) talking about subfloor repair and replacement. Great news! Looks like my subfloor can be repaired and doesn’t need to be completely replaced. I work full time and figure this just took about four weeks off my repair time

Regarding repairs. Going to follow EL’s advice, drill some shallow holes, and fill them with Git Rot to strengthen up the plywood. Now that I’ve scraped off a layer of enamel paint and sanded down most of the two other layers of paint/primer, I can see what I’m working with and have some questions.

The back edge of the shell is tabbed in with about 4-5” of resin extending onto the subfloor.

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The rounded corners and sides of the shell (at least around the back dinette area) is tabbed in about an inch to an inch-and-a-half with no resin extending over the subfloor.

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Is this okay or do I need to resin in some mat to extend further onto the subfloor.

Also…there are some definite problem areas. Along the back side, there is a section that was damp and a chunk of rotten wood came off while I was scraping off the paint. This happened a couple of weeks ago, so it’s dry now. What should I do with this area? Cover with resin? Got Rot? There are also a couple of nickel-sized holes that are similar—extend halfway through the subfloor, not all the way through.

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Thoughts?
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Old 08-21-2021, 04:56 PM   #2
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You are more optimistic than I am.
You should realize that where the floor is over the frame the attachment of the floor to shell is the means of support. The sides are just OSB that is screwed to the frame and tabbed to the shell. These side pieces add very little strength to the trailer.
Probably 90% of the strength is in the floor over and adjacent to the frame in the front and back.
If you do nothing else you should find a way to add some stiffness and strength in these areas.
Rotten wood will not do much and I see a lot of rotten wood in the pictures.
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Old 08-21-2021, 09:01 PM   #3
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My solution is to cut out the rotted wood in a small as necessary square, back to solid wood.
Replace the cut out area with a piece of new wood epoxied to the floor both on top and sitting in resin. This will make a solid repair to damaged areas.
Same holds true for the holes, cut back to solid wood and replace with a matched size plug, epoxy top and bottom.
A sheet of fiberglass mat wouldn’t hurt on top if your up to it but a couple coats of resin will hold the new wood pieces down. Make sure the topcoats are thick enough to be feather sanded before new floor covering.
Also I would epoxy and mat the tabs back onto solid flooring. Not that hard to to while your at it.
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Old 08-22-2021, 05:55 AM   #4
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I should add…from the underside of the camper, there is no evidence of damage.
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Old 08-22-2021, 06:10 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by courtney View Post
Spent some time on the phone today with Eddie L (thanks SO much) talking about subfloor repair and replacement. Great news! Looks like my subfloor can be repaired and doesn’t need to be completely replaced. I work full time and figure this just took about four weeks off my repair time

Regarding repairs. Going to follow EL’s advice, drill some shallow holes, and fill them with Git Rot to strengthen up the plywood. Now that I’ve scraped off a layer of enamel paint and sanded down most of the two other layers of paint/primer, I can see what I’m working with and have some questions.

The back edge of the shell is tabbed in with about 4-5” of resin extending onto the subfloor.

Attachment 142836

The rounded corners and sides of the shell (at least around the back dinette area) is tabbed in about an inch to an inch-and-a-half with no resin extending over the subfloor.

Attachment 142837

Is this okay or do I need to resin in some mat to extend further onto the subfloor.

Also…there are some definite problem areas. Along the back side, there is a section that was damp and a chunk of rotten wood came off while I was scraping off the paint. This happened a couple of weeks ago, so it’s dry now. What should I do with this area? Cover with resin? Got Rot? There are also a couple of nickel-sized holes that are similar—extend halfway through the subfloor, not all the way through.

Attachment 142838
Attachment 142839

Thoughts?


And the underneath tabbing is all adhered and intact.
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Old 08-22-2021, 06:54 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redbarron55 View Post
The sides are just OSB that is screwed to the frame and tabbed to the shell.

My subfloor is plywood, not OSB.
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Old 08-22-2021, 08:14 AM   #7
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If the subfloor is plywood and not OSB the floor has probably been changed once already.
Repairs can certainly be made as long as you realize that the stiffness needs to be restored to keep the integrity of the trailer.
Scarf repairs with plywood are possible that will not weaken the structure. I would use epoxy adhesives and then I would overlay a woven fiberglass covering with epoxy resin as well.
If the bottom ply is still intact and the center/top is filled the fiberglass will supply some additional stiffness to the sheet and also serve to waterproof in the future.
When I rebuilt FrankenScamp I used 3/4" exterior plywood, covered both top, bottom, and sides with fiberglass cloth with epoxy resin. The epoxy is actually very waterproof where polyester is not (judging by all of the rotted stringers in fiberglass boats).
While working on the rebuild with window leaks etc. several times leaks flooded the floor and the water collected on the top of the floor, but none soaked in and caused damage.
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Old 08-22-2021, 04:23 PM   #8
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Not going to lie. That was one heckuva chore! There was a lot of bad wood sandwiched between the tabs on the rear wall. The wood on the sides was good and a huge pain to remove. A layer of wood is still stuck in some places. Does it all have to come off? In some spots it WON’T unless the tab comes with it.

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Also, some of the bottom tabs come off the shell at close to a right angle. The left side of the rear, though, there is a DEEP groove. When I go to install the new section of subfloor? Should I make sure that void is full of resin/filler mix?

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Old 08-23-2021, 06:06 AM   #9
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Cut off the flange on the top so that you can fit the plywood against the shell. In my opinion you should cover the replacement piece with fiberglass top, bottom and edges.
After it is fitted you can replace the fiberglass tabbing from the top.
Personally I used epoxy, but some insist on polyester as that is what the original shell was made with.
Currently you have the most support of the rear shell removed and it is probably resting on the frame where it passes under it. At least you do have a complete floor ahead of the bad part.
You could install a support the the underside of the existing floor (I would epoxy glue and screw it under the existing floor so that the junction would be supported.
Glue and screw the new rear part of the floor on the top of the support.
What you have is the result of not waterproofing the top of the newly replaced floor and the inevitable leaks let water collect on the top and rot the wood.
These trailer floors rot from the inside out.
Three underlying reinforcements under the remaining floor to tie the old to the new would do. I would suggest making certain that these were waterproofed as well.
I used an oscillating saw to cut the tabbing from the top, using the bottom as a support for the new. I used strips of fabric overlaying the junction, epoxied in place.
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Old 08-23-2021, 07:55 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redbarron55 View Post
Cut off the flange on the top so that you can fit the plywood against the shell.
Does the flange need to be cut to be flush with the shell? I cut it back to about 1 cm.


Quote:
Originally Posted by redbarron55 View Post
After it is fitted you can replace the fiberglass tabbing from the top.
Personally I used epoxy, but some insist on polyester as that is what the original shell was made with.
I’m using West Marine epoxy products: 105/206/406 on the bottom tabbing and 105/206/mat on the top.

Quote:
Originally Posted by redbarron55 View Post
Currently you have the most support of the rear shell removed and it is probably resting on the frame where it passes under it. At least you do have a complete floor ahead of the bad part.
You could install a support the the underside of the existing floor (I would epoxy glue and screw it under the existing floor so that the junction would be supported.
I’m following Eddie L’s advice and joining the two pieces with a lap joint. Will glue, screw, and epoxy the inside and outside seams.

My questions are:
1) Do I have to get every remnant of wood off the bottom tabs before reinstalling the new section of floor?

2) Need/ method of filling deep gap between lower tabbing and shell that runs partially along back wall. Epoxy + filler crammed down in there to bring level with tab?

3) How to get the enamel paint off the existing fiberglass so that the epoxy and mat fully adheres. Is it necessary or can I just scratch it up well?
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Old 08-23-2021, 08:42 AM   #11
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Get a wire brush on a drill and rough it up or maybe that will take the paint off.
As long as you can fit the new plywood in you should be OK on cutting the top of tabbing off.
If you use longer setting time epoxy you can mix some flour and epoxy paste and bed the floor into the bottom a little wood would make little difference.
Here is a picture of a butt splice for plywood:
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For filler you can mix sawdust and epoxy to make a thick paste and back it up with some tape temporarily to keep it from running out.
You can also cut up some mat for short strands for filler.
Personally I prefer cloth.
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Old 08-28-2021, 12:45 PM   #12
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Got my subfloor patch fitted. Made 1/2” rabbet cuts along the seam. Very happy with the fit. Will coat with resin and possibly install tomorrow. Click image for larger version

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Old 08-30-2021, 09:12 AM   #13
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And, it’s in! First time using a multi tool and router and first time using epoxy and fiberglass. Thanks everyone for the tips! The old board is sound, just ugly from all the previous layers of paint.

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Old 08-30-2021, 04:59 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by courtney View Post
And, it’s in! First time using a multi tool and router and first time using epoxy and fiberglass. Thanks everyone for the tips! The old board is sound, just ugly from all the previous layers of paint.

Attachment 142948

Nice! Looks good. I see you did join the floor to the side a bit. Did you seal the board in epoxy resin before installing, then sealed in with a cover coat?

Well done
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Old 08-30-2021, 06:54 PM   #15
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Nice! Looks good. I see you did join the floor to the side a bit. Did you seal the board in epoxy resin before installing, then sealed in with a cover coat?

Well done

Bottom and sides and 4” of top perimeter (minus the edge that butts up to the original floor) are sealed with two coats of resin. New tabbing installed on top. I chose not to seal the top of the board. The previous subfloor was coated in layers of paint which did not let the floor air out and dry when it got wet from leaks. When I scraped the layers of paint off the subfloor, parts of it were still wet even though it had been garaged for more than a month. I’ll be putting down locking LVP (no adhesive) eventually. If it leaks in the future, I should be able to just pull the flooring out and let the wood dry and avoid rot.
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