Switching to a power tongue jack on a 2021 Scamp 13: what are my options.

[zack sc]

We currently have the a manual side-crank tongue jack on our Scamp 13. It is the one that came with it when we bought in new in early 2021. I am thinking that all that cranking, and particularly that lengthy part with no resistance, might be bad for my shoulder and back in the long run. I have heard about people using drill motors with some kind of adapter. Also, I think Scamp and other places sell power tongue jacks as replacements. What do you recommend? What are the best options? I kind of lean a bit toward using a drill motor, but I have an open mind and would love to learn more from other people. Thanks very much!

[Raspy]

Originally Posted by zack sc

We currently have the a manual side-crank tongue jack on our Scamp 13. It is the one that came with it when we bought in new in early 2021. I am thinking that all that cranking, and particularly that lengthy part with no resistance, might be bad for my shoulder and back in the long run. I have heard about people using drill motors with some kind of adapter. Also, I think Scamp and other places sell power tongue jacks as replacements. What do you recommend? What are the best options? I kind of lean a bit toward using a drill motor, but I have an open mind and would love to learn more from other people. Thanks very much!

Here's the socket that fits in a drill/driver to run the hand crank jack. These are easy to find and available at Walmart or Amazon. They also work on stabilizer jacks. But using an impact drill on the jacks can strip out the gears or shear the drive pin. Best to use a simple drill and not an impact driver.

https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Levelin.../dp/B01B4LW998

[AC0GV]

Originally Posted by zack sc

Also, I think Scamp and other places sell power tongue jacks as replacements. What do you recommend? What are the best options? I kind of lean a bit toward using a drill motor, but I have an open mind and would love to learn more from other people. Thanks very much!

I lost the room to crank my jack after I added more batteries, in 2018 this one was under 100$. It was a short distance to the battery and it added another hitch light. The "foot" was welded to the old one and needed to be cut off. Also I did not want to carry a drill that I needed to keep charged.

[zack sc]

Originally Posted by Raspy

Here's the socket that fits in a drill/driver to run the hand crank jack. These are easy to find and available at Walmart or Amazon. They also work on stabilizer jacks. But using an impact drill on the jacks can strip out the gears or shear the drive pin. Best to use a simple drill and not an impact driver.

https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Levelin.../dp/B01B4LW998

Here is what tongue jack looks like now. It the hand crank facing forward. Would the idea be that I would cut that off and convert weld something to convert to 3/4 inch drive?

[Jon MB]

Originally Posted by zack sc

I am thinking that all that cranking, and particularly that lengthy part with no resistance, might be bad for my shoulder and back in the long run.

???
The movement needed to spin the crank handle is the same when lowering the pad to the ground as when lifting the trailer once the pad is in contact. Why might the the low or no load effort of handle spin to lower the pad be more of a personal concern while the same movement, at trailer tongue weight resistance, not as much of an issue?

If the concern is the number of crank rotations (repetitive motion injury risk) for moving the pad from travel to contact height, compared to the fewer number of rotations needed to heft the tongue off the ball, well, that's a different issue.

Might a second crank handle clamped to the existing handle shorten the crank circle diameter and reduce the shoulder movement during pad lift and lower? Such would preserve the current handle position for more leverage at the greater resistance tongue lift and lowering stages.

[Lynn Eberhardt]

Because of a back problem, I changed the top crank jack on our Scamp to one that looks exactly like the one Ken shows. It was a direct replacement for the mounting holes and works well.

[Jon MB]

Zack's original post had the comment that the no-resistance cranking was more of a concern for him, and that's what puzzled me.
I would suspect that having to lean into the crank handle to lift the tongue off of, or lower on to, the ball would be more of a strain than mere 'windmilling' the handle around when the tow ball was supporting the trailer tongue load and there was no load on the jack pad.

I say "suspect", because our Casita has a powered jack and I don't think I'd want to cope with going back to a crank handle jack.

[Raspy]

Originally Posted by zack sc

Here is what tongue jack looks like now. It the hand crank facing forward. Would the idea be that I would cut that off and convert weld something to convert to 3/4 inch drive?

Yes. You can cut off the crank handle, near where it exits the gearbox, and weld a 1/2" nut onto the stub. These take a 3/4" socket, which is the size of the driver I referenced. I've done this and it works well. But on my jack, I like the manual crank for extreme reliability over an electric jack.

[Lynn Eberhardt]

The electric jack that Ken and I both have comes with a crank in case of elecrtical problems.

[zack sc]

Originally Posted by Lynn Eberhardt

The electric jack that Ken and I both have comes with a crank in case of elecrtical problems.

Which one is that? Do you like it? Was the bolt circle compatible? Was that an easy install?

[AC0GV]

Originally Posted by zack sc

Which one is that? Do you like it? Was the bolt circle compatible? Was that an easy install?

Yes the bolt holes matched. Your current jack may have a welded foot that need to be cut off for removal.
https://www.etrailer.com/Camper-Jack...-3520-BBX.html

[zack sc]

Originally Posted by AC0GV

Yes the bolt holes matched. Your current jack may have a welded foot that need to be cut off for removal.
https://www.etrailer.com/Camper-Jack...-3520-BBX.html

Thanks Kenneth. No, I don't think my jack foot is welded on. My main concern is: how far does it exend down below the tongue when fully retracted, because I drive over things where the jack foot hitting the ground can be an issue? If that is the same as with my current Scamp-standard jack, that would be okay; if it extends less, that would be great! If it extends down lower (when fully retracted) that might be a problem. Do you have an idea about that?

Would you recommend this over the drill motor option?

[zack sc]

Originally Posted by AC0GV

Yes the bolt holes matched. Your current jack may have a welded foot that need to be cut off for removal.
https://www.etrailer.com/Camper-Jack...-3520-BBX.html

Thanks Kenneth. No, I don't think my jack foot is welded on. One concern is: how far does it exend down below the tongue when fully retracted?, because I drive over things where the jack foot hitting the ground can be an issue. If that is the same as with my current Scamp-standard jack, that would be okay; if it extends less, that would be great! If it extends down lower (when fully retracted) that might be a problem. Do you have an idea about that?

Would you recommend this over the drill motor option?

PS. Here are the specs I copied from the e-trailer link.
Specs:
Bracket height:
Retracted: 9"
Extended: 28-1/2"
Total lift: 25-1/8"
Screw travel: 19-1/2"
Drop leg travel: 5-5/8"
Clearance:
20-1/2" From bottom of bracket to top of jack
Outer tube diameter: 2-1/4"
Inner tube diameter: 2"
Hole spacing on drop leg: 1-7/8"
Footplate diameter: 5-1/2"
Lift capacity: 3,500 lbs

[Jon MB]

Originally Posted by zack sc

...how far does it exend down below the tongue when fully retracted?...

PS. Here are the specs I copied from the e-trailer link.
Specs:
Bracket height:
Retracted: 9"
Extended: 28-1/2"

I interpret that as the bottom of the jack lift, as supplied, is 9 inches from the bottom of the mounting bracket when fully retracted, and is 28 1/2 inches from that bracket mount surface when fully extended.
I'd use those numbers and measure down from the current manual crank jack mounting surface to get a comparison.

What you choose to attach (whether use as supplied, or swap out for your own alternate pad, foot, or wheel) will change the offset.

[zack sc]

Originally Posted by Jon MB

I interpret that as the bottom of the jack lift, as supplied, is 9 inches from the bottom of the mounting bracket when fully retracted, and is 28 1/2 inches from that bracket mount surface when fully extended.
I'd use those numbers and measure down from the current manual crank jack mounting surface to get a comparison.

What you choose to attach (whether use as supplied, or swap out for your own alternate pad, foot, or wheel) will change the offset.

Thanks Jon. That makes sense. I am actually not sure how much the jack I have now extends below, but I don't think it is less than 9 inches.

[Martin A]

You have a couple solutions I have that exact jack on a utility trailer I converted it be used with a socket like others have described. Only I disassembled the handle and replaced it with a 6" bolt of the same diameter( not for the un mechanically inclined but it worked for me).
a couple other suggestion is have you considered a flip foot like this link
https://www.fastwaytrailer.com/flip-jack-foot. I use this on our travel trailer and like it very much.

or a block of wood or a jack cone like this
https://www.amazon.com/Valterra-A10-.../dp/B000BGHVSM
to put under the jack reducing the # of turns?
or a drop foot on the jack similar to this
https://www.amazon.com/Libra-Standar.../dp/B017V0VF7I
Best of luck, save your shoulder where you can, I have severe arthritis and relate!

[zack sc]

Here are the choices I am looking at at e-trailer. I wonder how much better the $263 Stromberg Carlson (SC63VR) or the $202 Stromberg Carson (JET-03555) are than the $144 E-trailer brand choice?
What would you recommend? I kind of would like the best, smoothest most reliable thing, hopefully with a manually option that works well. Do you think you get more by spending the extra money?

[Martin A]

Look at the Barker brand I have had two and very happy with them, you can rotate the head to get tailgate or hatch clearance if needed. Good customer service when one arrived damaged.

https://www.amazon.com/Barker-30828-.../dp/B000UO7ZYU, there is a 3000 lb one as well. check that the post diameter matches the hole in your mounting spot. there is also a version with a 24" stroke which is what I have as the top of my frame is 26" above level surface
To me the extra cost is worth it.

[Kenny in Ohio]

I have the Ultimate Jack

https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Jac...22-RDJ-2K.html

Very little free cranking.

[BLaughlin]

If I had known how Awesome an electric jack would be, I would have had Scamp install it from the start. Mine's a 2021 16ft. After a year of cranking, cranking, cranking, my husband ordered an electric jack from Scamp for Christmas. He had no trouble switching it out. Plenty of clearance when it’s fully up. I’ve had both knees replaced and back surgery in 2021. I love it! I attached what Scamp uses. The company charges $229. Not sure what Scamp charges. Brand is Stromberg Carlson.