Symptoms of Bad Breakaway Switch? - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 08-24-2019, 02:29 PM   #21
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Oh, hell yes! This is the Woodstock, IL Lake Marine and RV.

Cindy
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Old 08-24-2019, 02:32 PM   #22
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Name: Gordon
Trailer: 2015 Scamp (16 Std Layout 4) with '15 Toyota Sienna LE Tug
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Originally Posted by Joe Romas View Post
One thing on these replies that bothers me is people are referring to the "GROUND".
The brakes should be attached to the NEGATIVE wire that is commonly white in an RV. The wire size in the 7 pin pigtail for the brakes has a blue larger gauge wire, mine is 12 ga, than wires for signal and running lights that are commonly 14 ga. Yes I know the negative and ground leads are most likely connected somewhere in the trailer but the chassis ground should not be used for the negative battery lead
...
I wish Scamp would listen to you.. they run a wire from the brake magnets to a clip on the frame, about one foot of wire. The clip on the frame is an occasional point of failure. I added (white) wires from the magnets pigtails in parallel to a junction box where my umbilical cord connects, so the ground (I mean negative!) connection to the brakes will still be there even if the connection to the frame fails.
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Old 08-24-2019, 02:56 PM   #23
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Trailer: 1999 Casita 17' SD
Ohio
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Originally Posted by gordon2 View Post
I added (white) wires from the magnets pigtails in parallel to a junction box where my umbilical cord connects, so the ground (I mean negative!) connection to the brakes will still be there even if the connection to the frame fails.
Casita ties the brake negative to the umbilical's white wire as it should be too.

Every 12 volt DC device in a Casita uses the white wire for the negative leads. A steel frame with a screw attaching a wire underneath exposed to the elements is bound to fail.

I suspect the battery negative and frame ground being connected might have something to do with the trailers having 120 VAC, just a guess.
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Old 08-28-2019, 03:42 PM   #24
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Kevin picked up the camper with non-working brakes and in less than a day, had the brakes fixed. Here is the culprit. So their "trusted" head electrician did not think to look at the mess before declaring the issue to be the breakaway switch?

I guess in defense of them, they did do the rest of the repair. I wonder what wires or plumbing we will find that they cut while rewiring it.

Anyway, just in time for the grandkids campout.

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cord 1.jpg   cord end.jpg  

cord entire.jpg   cord repair.jpg  

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Old 08-28-2019, 04:22 PM   #25
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To further explain CindyL's posting above, I started with my multimeter this morning and checked many connections in the front battery/propane compartment. Everything had power. Knowing my tow was OK, I decided to look between the tow and the trailer...the power cord. This was the original cord that came with the trailer and it had many taped up areas. Since the brakes had previously worked, I didn't think that it would turn out to be the cord, but sure enough. On further inspection, one of the taped areas had a razor slice through the layers of tape, so I removed the old tape. Underneath I found the white and blue wires had insulation missing and corroded wire. Long story short, I cut the cord at that point (closest taping to the battery compartment) and spliced in a new 6' cord with the plug already installed. Voila! Everything works.

So, we had all new brake assemblies installed and much of the old wiring underneath replaced by the dealer. That needed to be done. My repair today finishes the job (which we wish they had thought to check). On to camping!
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Old 08-28-2019, 04:59 PM   #26
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Smith Valley, Nevada
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Kevin,

Glad you got it straightened out. What a hassle!

Have a good trip!
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Old 08-28-2019, 05:11 PM   #27
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Trailer: 2015 Scamp (16 Std Layout 4) with '15 Toyota Sienna LE Tug
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Wrapping electrical tape over the plug like that does nothing (except hide a problem perhaps). Anytime I see something like that I pull the tape off and inspect, and the shop should have done that. Its not uncommon for the insulation on the umbilical cord to separate from the plug. Mine did. Best option is to replace the cord. But a shorter term but still reasonable solution is to apply 2-3 coats of liquid eclectic tape. That seals it up pretty well for awhile. Regular tape does not.

PS.. Nice job on the analytical step by step problem solving.
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