|
09-14-2017, 09:45 PM
|
#2
|
Senior Member
Name: Jon
Trailer: 2008 Scamp 13 S1
Arizona
Posts: 11,964
|
Try the same tests I described in the other thread: wheel well clearance and arm movement.
There's a fair chance the axle on a vintage unit has already been replaced. If so, you might be able to find a sticker on it that will tell you more.
More important than the axle are (1) shell condition, especially door fit, (2) floor condition- solid, no rot, and (3) the frame itself, no cracks or excessive rust.
|
|
|
09-15-2017, 05:20 AM
|
#3
|
Member
Name: Z
Trailer: Scamp
Quebec
Posts: 74
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon in AZ
Try the same tests I described in the other thread: wheel well clearance and arm movement.
There's a fair chance the axle on a vintage unit has already been replaced. If so, you might be able to find a sticker on it that will tell you more.
More important than the axle are (1) shell condition, especially door fit, (2) floor condition- solid, no rot, and (3) the frame itself, no cracks or excessive rust.
|
Thanks,
Here is John in AZ's sound advice from the other thread. (in case people come across this thread in future searches.)
"On an older trailer there are a few things you can check to verify axle condition. (1) Check clearance in the wheel well. There should be at least a fist clearance between the top of the tire and the fiberglass when the trailer is resting on the wheels. (2) Check for axle arm movement. Raise the trailer by jacking on the frame just behind the axle. The wheel should drop down several inches as the trailer rises. Little or no movement means the rubber inside is hardened and the axle is shot. (3) Check for unusual tire wear, which could mean the axle is worn out or bent."
|
|
|
09-15-2017, 07:36 AM
|
#4
|
Senior Member
Name: Jon
Trailer: 2008 Scamp 13 S1
Arizona
Posts: 11,964
|
Thread for advice on Fiberglass trails I am looking to buy
On closer inspection of your pictures, it looks like the axle might be bolted on. If so, that certainly means it is a replacement, since the original was welded on.
That would be a good thing, since the original axle was underrated (1200#?) for the application. Replacements are typically built for 1800-2200#.
No brake flange that I can see.
|
|
|
09-15-2017, 08:02 AM
|
#5
|
Member
Name: Z
Trailer: Scamp
Quebec
Posts: 74
|
thank you for the quick and helpful reply.
The pics above are from a boler that is FAR from me.
I will be going to inspect a boler that is in my town tonight and post some pics when I return.
So what angle should the axles be on a 1972 Boler?
Still a fist space between wheel and floor/frame when in weight in trailer?
Was the original axle welded on a 1972 as well, so if it is bolted on it is a replacement?
THANKS EVERYONE!!
|
|
|
09-15-2017, 09:01 AM
|
#6
|
Senior Member
Name: bill
Trailer: 2013 Escape 19
The Mountains of North Carolina
Posts: 4,143
|
When looking at 45 year old trailers, I would just assume axle will need replacement and budget for it. If you get lucky, the current owner already replaced the axle. But I would not count on it. Even a replacement can be worn out, depending when it was replaced. 45 years is a long time. Others report 15 to 20 year life on these axles.
|
|
|
09-15-2017, 09:07 AM
|
#7
|
Member
Name: Z
Trailer: Scamp
Quebec
Posts: 74
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by thrifty bill
When looking at 45 year old trailers, I would just assume axle will need replacement and budget for it. If you get lucky, the current owner already replaced the axle. But I would not count on it. Even a replacement can be worn out, depending when it was replaced. 45 years is a long time. Others report 15 to 20 year life on these axles.
|
Add says it is a new axle. Is there any way to identify the year of the axle by looking at it?
|
|
|
09-15-2017, 09:16 AM
|
#8
|
Senior Member
Name: To Infinity & Beyond!
Trailer: 1985 Uhaul VT-16 Vacationer, 1957 Avion R20 & 1977 Argosy 6.0 Minuet
Tennessee
Posts: 655
|
Check the frame for cracks and broken welds. Also look at the "Elevator Bolts" from the bottom.
__________________
Mike
Remember "Drive Fast, Turn Heads, Break Hearts"!
|
|
|
09-15-2017, 09:27 AM
|
#9
|
Member
Name: Z
Trailer: Scamp
Quebec
Posts: 74
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by vintageracer
Check the frame for cracks and broken welds. Also look at the "Elevator Bolts" from the bottom.
|
What are these "Elevator Bolts" ??
|
|
|
09-16-2017, 12:09 AM
|
#10
|
Member
Name: Z
Trailer: Scamp
Quebec
Posts: 74
|
Well that was a strange boler i just looked at..
Frame was AWESOME. Total rebuild. Reinforced everything, new axle, new tires.
The RV itself tho...woah. Smelt like a thousand mice had piss and poo'd in it for 10 years. NO WAY it was passing the wife test.
The search continues.
|
|
|
09-16-2017, 10:01 AM
|
#11
|
Member
Name: Z
Trailer: Scamp
Quebec
Posts: 74
|
I will hopefully be looking at a 2011 scamp this weekend.
As for the axles, what is the approximate degrees upward the torsion axle to wheel bar should be at?
Is this approximate angle loaded or unloaded?
|
|
|
09-16-2017, 02:06 PM
|
#12
|
Senior Member
Name: Jon
Trailer: 2008 Scamp 13 S1
Arizona
Posts: 11,964
|
Thread for advice on Fiberglass trails I am looking to buy
Quote:
Originally Posted by Luxus Panzer
I will hopefully be looking at a 2011 scamp this weekend.
As for the axles, what is the approximate degrees upward the torsion axle to wheel bar should be at?
Is this approximate angle loaded or unloaded?
|
I really think you're over-concerned about the axles on newer trailers. A 2011 has lots of life left. Check to see if it has brakes. If not it should have the mounting flange so you can add them.
To answer your question, rough guess, about 20 degrees upward sitting on the ground unloaded.
With a trailer that new, I would be most concerned that all the appliances and mechanical systems work. Check everything. If it has a 3-way fridge, they take a long time to cool down, so I would ask the seller to turn it on several hours in advance of your inspection. Ideally you will connect to water and check plumbing. Wouldn't hurt to look inside benches and cabinets for any signs of water infiltration on the floor. Shouldn't be any, but you want to be sure.
|
|
|
09-16-2017, 03:37 PM
|
#13
|
Senior Member
Trailer: 2004 13 ft Scamp Custom Deluxe
Posts: 8,520
|
The normal torsion axle on a 13 is 22 degrees up when new.
Initial set will increase that angle a couple of degrees in the first 500 miles or so.
After that... slow wear over decades.
Shaking your fist at the axle may feel satisfying but it is not a legitimate test.
As the axle wears, negative camber increases, tow out will increase a bit as well. Tire wear on the inside edge of the tire will increase over time, but it is not a problem until there is sufficient wear difference across the face of the tire to warrant replacement too soon.
That can be judged by time as many people do... Say if the inside edge has less than 3/32nd tread in less that three or four years of use. and tread depth increases significantly across the tread.
Or by wear.... which would mean an unacceptable difference across the tread over the service life of the tire.
|
|
|
09-16-2017, 05:43 PM
|
#14
|
Member
Name: Z
Trailer: Scamp
Quebec
Posts: 74
|
thanks for the good info everyone.
|
|
|
|
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
|
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
|
» Recent Discussions |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
» Upcoming Events |
No events scheduled in the next 465 days.
|
|