Time for yet another new battery. - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 03-04-2016, 02:08 PM   #21
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It would be better to determine the cause of the battery going dead rather than just buying a more expensive battery that would also go dead if the power drain is not discovered. AGM batteries require different charging than flooded lead-acid batteries, so check your converter to make sure it is compatible with AGM. Regular old deep cycle batteries can last many years as long as they are not drained down too much, most recommend draining to no less than a 50% charge.
I have at least 3 items that place a drain on my battery when not in use (gas detector, radio memory, and electric brake circuit checker), but I also permanently mounted a 90 watt solar panel on top that keeps it topped up daily.
A cutoff switch is also a great idea for long term storage if you have items trying to draw power, and Larry Gamble has kits available for that at Little House Customs.
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Old 03-04-2016, 02:13 PM   #22
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Dead lead acid

Killed my new group 27 in one night running my heater in cold weather mountain camping.
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Old 03-04-2016, 02:21 PM   #23
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Killed my new group 27 in one night running my heater in cold weather mountain camping.
Something wrong there. Must have been running full time.
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Old 03-04-2016, 06:43 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by Uplander View Post
I have been reading a lot about batteries for my travel trailer.
After much research I have focused in on AGM type deep cell units.
Amazon has an Excide brand AGM with a 100 AH rating for a little over $200.
The battery comes with a two year free replacement warranty.
Lithium batteries are also worth considering but availability and cost are a concern. I want something that will last.
Last year I purchased a group 27 size deep cell standard liquid acid battery made by interstate. It came with a one year replacement warranty. It discharged to about zero on two occasions when parked without power and no real load...
not good...I was so upset that I returned it at the end of camping season last November and insisted on a full refund not a replacement. Since I purchased it at a Walmart the refund was not a problem.

I plan on having my trailer's electrical system checked to make sure that the rapid discharge of last year's battery was not caused by my converter or some other system failure. I will do this before I buy another battery.

First question is what battery to buy...right now I am focused on an AGM type.
Second question is am I missing anything else that could cause battery failure.
My goal is to buy the right battery with a long life expectancy and not spend a fortune.

Any and all advise appreciated. Thank You.
The rip 27 battery is far cheaper and performs valiantly. Watch out for spring sales as fishing sales bring out battery sales. We got a Exide group 27 battery at Manards for $84.95, a super cheap price.
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Old 03-04-2016, 06:44 PM   #25
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The rip 27 battery is far cheaper and performs valiantly. Watch out for spring sales as fishing sales bring out battery sales. We got a Exide group 27 battery at Manards for $84.95, a super cheap price.
Meant to type Group 27 battery
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Old 03-04-2016, 07:43 PM   #26
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You can also use a cheap Harbor Freight (or any other) volt meter and set it to check amps. Mine you set on "10A" and move the probe over one hole. Undo one of the battery cables and just put the meter inline- one probe on the cable, the other on the battery terminal. If you get readings, then you definitely have something "live" inside your trailer pulling on the battery.

Floyd and others have installed an "on/off" switch to prevent this. I have never used a switch but never had a problem with my battery dying-- well except when I left the fridge on a couple of times and pulled it down completely. And yes, I can tell it has been reduced in capacity. But still, that battery is still going after 6 yrs. I also keep a $25 Battery Tender plugged up to it year/round.

One thing to keep in mind, I'm not a boondocker so I dont rely heavily on my battery...other than just lights etc when I go down to my Scamp periodically.
I have no master "on/off" switch on my trailer, but then I have no draw in the trailer during storage. Some folks have things like CO detectors,smoke alarms, keep alive power to radios, tvs etc, which can draw a battery down over time.
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Old 03-05-2016, 10:45 AM   #27
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Flyboy scamp, "Type 27" designates a battery size...was your Manards Exide battery an AGM battery or a liquid acid lead plate battery ? I would venture to guess by that price it was not an AGM battery.

Because of information I have gleamed from this post I will be installing an "on/off switch" on my new battery.
During camping season I do keep my travel trailer plugged in to A/C power to maintain the battery charge...if not plugged in having the battery disconnect switch makes sense!!! In the winter the battery is stored inside and but on a battery charger/maintainer to prevent complete down charging when in storage.
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Old 03-05-2016, 10:55 AM   #28
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Yes, lead acid and working great. I too took it out when storing the trailer for winter and kept in downsairs in the shop. A smart charger, digital type, totally charges the battery to 12.88 volts while down there. It's more than ready for the season.
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Old 03-28-2016, 03:37 PM   #29
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I guess I need to maybe retract my earlier statement about the Harbor Freight meters.
I've had several over the years and I would have sworn that there was no current measuring capability on one of my earlier meters. However, I've now found a meter that says it will measure amps/current. Maybe they gave the the upgraded meter or maybe I accidentally paid for a better one? Still TBD. Sorry!

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Old 03-28-2016, 03:43 PM   #30
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If you're talking about one of these (see link), they've always had a AMP check on it. It's only good for DC and 10A max. I have 3 or 4 of these I use to get free with their "super" coupons.

Digital Multimeter - Save on this 7 Function Digital Multimeter

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Originally Posted by rdickens View Post
I guess I need to maybe retract my earlier statement about the Harbor Freight meters.
I've had several over the years and I would have sworn that there was no current measuring capability on one of my earlier meters. However, I've now found a meter that says it will measure amps/current. Maybe they gave the the upgraded meter or maybe I accidentally paid for a better one? Still TBD. Sorry!

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