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04-20-2018, 08:13 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Name: Patricia
Trailer: 1975 Ventura
Ontario
Posts: 353
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trailer coupler question
I am having trouble connecting and disconnecting my trailer and car. It is hard to tell if the ball is seated properly in the hitch and very hard to release it. I am interested to know if this coupler is original to Ventura trailers, if other owners find it hard to operate and if it is possible to replace it. It seems welded on way back onto the frame. Also, whether other Ventura owners use a 1 7/8 or 2 in ball.
Any opinions on if the mechanism can be changed would be appreciated. There was a recent thread about using a lock to make sure the connection is secure. With this present set up this is not possible and I would somehow like to change it.
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04-20-2018, 08:33 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Trailer: 2004 13 ft Scamp Custom Deluxe
Posts: 8,520
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.
You can buy a coupler of either size with the mechanism shown below which will accept a lock.
I suggest going to a 2" ball regardless of what you now have.
I'm guessing you have a 2" ball, standard 50° coupler flange.
You will need about $25, a 4" grinder, and a mig welder.
https://www.reesehitches.com/product...CABEgK4yPD_BwE
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04-20-2018, 08:51 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 700
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As for how to lock these couplers, they have a hole on the side lip, curb side, where you can put a lock pin or padlock that will prevent the latching assembly from sliding back, unlatch and release the ball. You might be able to see "LOCK -->" stamped in the metal near the hole, unless it has been painted over many times. See:
http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...tch-30281.html
I believe newer versions of these locks have a more traditional (and obvious) lock hole in the latching lever, where you can insert a pin or hitch lock.
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04-20-2018, 09:54 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Name: Patricia
Trailer: 1975 Ventura
Ontario
Posts: 353
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Carl, I could not see a hole but will look in the morning. 1 7/8 or 2 in ball on your hitch?
Floyd, if I did decide to put a new one on, do you think a welder would charge much to do this?
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04-20-2018, 10:42 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Trailer: No Trailer Yet (want 13 ft fiber glass
Posts: 2,316
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Patricia, from the pictures, the coupler looks fine. Have you tried lubricating it and the trailer ball? These parts should be greased periodically.
Dave & Paula
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04-20-2018, 10:53 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Name: Patricia
Trailer: 1975 Ventura
Ontario
Posts: 353
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Thanks Dave. No, it just occurred to me that I had read something about greasing a while ago. What is the best thing to use?
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04-20-2018, 11:08 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Trailer: No Trailer Yet (want 13 ft fiber glass
Posts: 2,316
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I just put some grease on my fingers from my grease gun, and smear it around inside the coupler and on the trailer hitch ball. For the moving parts hinges I use a little 3-in-1 oil.
Dave & Paula
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04-20-2018, 11:28 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Name: Jack L
Trailer: Sold the Bigfoot 17-Looking for a new one
Washington
Posts: 1,562
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Some couplers have ways to adjust them, also, If the TV and trailer are not level the coupler and ball can have pressure that will prevent the latch from releasing.
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04-21-2018, 05:08 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 700
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Patricia D.
1 7/8 or 2 in ball on your hitch?
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2 inches.
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04-21-2018, 06:19 AM
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#11
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Senior Member
Name: bob
Trailer: Was A-Liner now 13f Scamp
Missouri
Posts: 3,209
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patricia you have to get under your hookup and spray it down good with a lubricant spray. I bet there is a lot of rust under there keep at it all this will eventually work loose and make things much better.
I also use the grease in a can whatever I think will work this has to all be flexible to work right!
good luck
bob
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04-21-2018, 06:19 AM
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#12
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Senior Member
Trailer: Trillium 2010
Posts: 5,185
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I have a similar coupler only mine has a hole in the latch for a locking pin. There is no adjustment. When you pull the latch forward you are also moving a piece of metal under the back of the ball. When the metal fingers on the latch sit in there holes, the ball is secure. For this to happen the ball must be positioned forward in the coupler cup. If it isn't the latch will not close. I sometimes I find it useful to push the trailer back or pull the tow forward. Lubrication will help slide the ball into the correct position. I use the same grease I use on the bearings but any grease will work. A tennis ball can be cut to fit over the greased ball to protect your clothes when you're not hitched up. I oil the latch mechanism when I oil the crank at the beginning of the season. For unhitching, the ball again must be forward in the coupling cup. If it is not, you will have trouble lifting the latch. Good luck.
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04-21-2018, 06:31 AM
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#13
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Senior Member
Name: bob
Trailer: Was A-Liner now 13f Scamp
Missouri
Posts: 3,209
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yep yep
exactly my method!
bob
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04-21-2018, 09:04 AM
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#14
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Senior Member
Trailer: 2004 13 ft Scamp Custom Deluxe
Posts: 8,520
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Patricia D.
Carl, I could not see a hole but will look in the morning. 1 7/8 or 2 in ball on your hitch?
Floyd, if I did decide to put a new one on, do you think a welder would charge much to do this?
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Not sure, it depends on where you live and who you know and what you think is much. It shouldn't take more than an hour.
I would ask for a hard money quote, maybe at a trailer place. Should be under a hundred dollars maybe including the coupler.
I own a MIG welder with which I have built car chassis' so I haven't hired much done.
BTW... I think the coupler you have is safe and can take a padlock but I have never liked that design either.
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04-21-2018, 10:22 AM
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#15
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Junior Member
Name: Bruce
Trailer: Boler
Alberta
Posts: 8
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hitch
Is there not a nut under the hitch to adjust the tightness of the hitch to ball? If so, loosen or tighten it up which ever way it needs to go.
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04-21-2018, 10:41 AM
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#16
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Senior Member
Name: Patricia
Trailer: 1975 Ventura
Ontario
Posts: 353
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Thanks to all of you, some excellent advice. i will have a good look at it and grease it as soon as possible. A bout of vertigo today makes it a no go but soon.
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04-21-2018, 12:36 PM
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#18
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Member
Name: Robert
Trailer: 1987 Bigfoot B-17'
Washington
Posts: 68
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Grease on the ball and fitting is good(thanks for reminding me) and I often have to move the tow just a bit to get the fitting to fall onto the ball or loosen so it can come off the ball. Oftentimes just disengaging the parking brake does the trick.
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04-21-2018, 06:05 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Name: To Infinity & Beyond!
Trailer: 1985 Uhaul VT-16 Vacationer, 1957 Avion R20 & 1977 Argosy 6.0 Minuet
Tennessee
Posts: 655
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Put a 2 5/16 inch ball coupler on your trailer.
That will keep your friends and relatives from wanting to "Borrow" your trailer!
__________________
Mike
Remember "Drive Fast, Turn Heads, Break Hearts"!
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04-22-2018, 05:39 AM
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#20
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Senior Member
Name: Gilles
Trailer: Bigfoot 25B21RB, 2004
Quebec
Posts: 693
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For my part I prefer to use a liquid lubricant, under pressure preferably and rather volatile, not to retain dust and sand from the road ...
__________________
Gilles
Bigfoot 25B21RB.
Towed with Dodge RAM 1500 Echo-Diesel, 3.0 L., 8 speeds.
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