Trillium 1300 body mount bolts

[Gullygossner]

I have recently repaired my trillium 1300 frame after a very close call with the frame cracking nearly completely on both sides at the typical weak point.

I'm now going to bolt down the body again. My local hardware store had full thread carriage bolts rather then partial thread.

Has anyone ran into troubles with failure of the body mount bolts by using full thread vs partial thread mounting hardware?

[Martin.P]

Originally Posted by Gullygossner

I have recently repaired my trillium 1300 frame after a very close call with the frame cracking nearly completely on both sides at the typical weak point.

I'm now going to bolt down the body again. My local hardware store had full thread carriage bolts rather then partial thread.

Has anyone ran into troubles with failure of the body mount bolts by using full thread vs partial thread mounting hardware?

I have just rebuilt my frame also. (cracked in the same place). Instead of drilling the frame again, I used "U" bolts. 2 at the front, 2 at the rear.

[fantasyride]

Photos of the frame cracks would be nice. I am a 1300 owner, curious where the typical frame issue is. Also would like to see photos of the U bolts mentioned.

[Martin.P]

Originally Posted by fantasyride

Photos of the frame cracks would be nice. I am a 1300 owner, curious where the typical frame issue is. Also would like to see photos of the U bolts mentioned.

The crack is where the front mounting bolt goes through the frame.
"U" bolt not trimmed yet, in picture
I spent $700.00 Having the frame re-enforced. Don't want to have to take the body off of the frame again.

[Martin.P]

Picture of the crack is before the frame was re-built!

[Raz]

My 2010 has two improvements. They welded L brackets to the side of the frame instead drilling through it and they used stainless steel hex bolts. The problem with carriage bolts is once they rust they are hard to take apart. Nothing to grip on the head.

[fantasyride]

Thanks! Yeah the original drilling through the frame does seem like a design flaw... I should probably try to deal with this proactively.

[thrifty bill]

I had a local welder add angle iron tabs amp n the front. Squared off u bolts are also a fine choice. I would highly recommend NOT drilling through the frame!

[getaway1]

Hi Anyone replacing the body bolts would be wise to add 6 angle iron tabs to the inside of the frame when it's off, beside the original holes. Drill the new tabs and bolt the body on that way. I would use larger 3/8" bolts with hex heads and washers as well as lock nuts. ( a helper can hold the bolt so the nuts can be tightened) If the original holes are not altered a long bolt or pin can be inserted to place the body correctly. If stainless bolts are available use them too. The original method was quick and not the best way to bolt the body down. I would avoid over tightening so you don't crack the fiberglass near the bolts. Duane

[RLP]

It is generally recommended to stay away from drilling/bolting directly into the frame member. In the engineering world, that hole creates a "stress razor". The hole is now a focal point for stresses in the frame and cracks will likely occur across the hole.


Much better to use U-bolts or angle iron tabs and bolt through the tab. In either case, on the top side use large fender washers or a large plate steel under the nuts to distribute the holding force over more of the fibreglass.



I added two square u-bolts near the front of my Boler as the factory screws were rusted out. Those u-bolts saved part of the day when my frame broke near the front. I'll post pics if I remember how, haha

[RLP]

Square u-bolts on Boler.

[gtblue]

Originally Posted by Martin.P

The crack is where the front mounting bolt goes through the frame.
"U" bolt not trimmed yet, in picture
I spent $700.00 Having the frame re-enforced. Don't want to have to take the body off of the frame again.

Martin, sorry to hear of your frame damage. Curious about what looks like reinforcement to the frame in the area of the crack. Looks as though plate steel was added to each side of the frame member adjacent to the crack. I’ve seen similar, but different looking work on other trailers. The others seemed like OEM Trillium factory work. How/when/where was your frame modified?

Like the idea of “U” bolts and sturdy backing plates as an alternative to bolt holes in the frame.