Trillium 1300 Soggy Rear floor - Fiberglass RV


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Old 06-24-2021, 07:24 PM   #1
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Name: Dave
Trailer: trillium
Ontario
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Trillium 1300 Soggy Rear floor

We just purchase a 75 Trillium 1300 and once I started to carefully root through it, I discovered that the floor beneath both rear gauchos is very wet. The plywood is soggy. I know it's from the windows and I will look after that first. Anyhow, I don't have a lot of time to do a major repair, on the floor, as we are heading out on a road trip soon. I'm wondering.....

1) Can I cut the top layer of glass, scrape out the plywood, replace it with pieces of plywood that I can fit in through the upper access points, and reglass? I know it won't be this simple and I will need to remove the bolts that fasten the shell to the trailer. There is a soft spot that runs to the floor beneath the table but I'm not sure if this sheet of wood would be that same as the one from the gaucho.


2) If the existing bolts that secure the shell to the frame seem okay (the glassed area surrounding the bolts and washers somehow seems solid) would I be better to just have someone put in a couple more bolts with larger washers? A professional would look after this. This option would be intended just to get us through the trip safely.

Please be gentle!! I'm quite discouraged as is.
Thanks so much!
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Old 06-25-2021, 09:08 AM   #2
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Name: Dave W
Trailer: Trillium 4500 - 1977, 1978 (2), 1300 - 1977, 1973, and a 1972
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First, water should not be able to collect in that area. One of the things Trillium should have done is to put holes in the, "pontoons" just forward and back of the wheel wells. I used a 1/8" bit. Some of the six Trilliums that I have owned drained for a long time, gallons of water.

Gentle is, why bother doing anything? The dinette floor should not see much stress. 4500's have the water tank in a well beneath the dinette floor. The floor is actually just a hatch made of plywood, with some lumber to stiffen it up.

If you want to repair it, take the coach off the frame and cut out the bottom of the fibreglass in one big patch. Then replace the plywood. It should be glued to the bottom of the floor. The next step is to glue the removed patch of fibreglass to the plywood. Lastly, close up the seam with fibreglass.

Take a look at this thread:
https://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/...ass-52498.html
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Old 06-25-2021, 09:28 AM   #3
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As Dave Tilston commented "Lastly, close up the seam with fibreglass.". The windows are not the only potential source of leaks. There is the center seam and all other through hull fittings, e.g., fresh water fill, city water, grey water, cord hatch ... When you are done with the rear of the trailer, move forward to the roof vent, door, door drip cap, awning rail, etc.
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Old 06-25-2021, 11:23 AM   #4
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Name: Dave
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Thanks David. My only concern is that two of the three, shell to frame, bolts are located in these areas. Although the area around them somehow seems fine, I don't want to be checking my rear view to ensure the camper is still on the frame!
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Old 06-25-2021, 11:35 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by surfin1 View Post
Thanks David. My only concern is that two of the three, shell to frame, bolts are located in these areas. Although the area around them somehow seems fine, I don't want to be checking my rear view to ensure the camper is still on the frame!
I used stainless steel 3/8" hex head bolt with SS nylock nuts. Also replaced the large washers. You could put in a temporary piece or two of plywood and bolt through temporarily. As Dave T mentioned, first thing to do is drain the sponsons and dry everything out.
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Old 06-25-2021, 11:41 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by surfin1 View Post
Thanks David. My only concern is that two of the three, shell to frame, bolts are located in these areas. Although the area around them somehow seems fine, I don't want to be checking my rear view to ensure the camper is still on the frame!
I understand your concern, and as Jon pointed out, there are other ways to spread out the stress around the bolts. Though for some perspective, most people who replace the bolts holding the coach to the frame find that several, if not all have corroded right through. The only thing holding the trailer together, in this case, is gravity. I don't mean to imply that there is nothing to worry about, but I am not aware of anyone losing the coach on the road.
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Old 06-25-2021, 02:42 PM   #7
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Name: bill
Trailer: 2013 Escape 19; 1977 Trillium 1300
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You can just about count on the bolts to be heavily rotted and need of immediate replacement. With the plywood being rotten, the same water that rotted the plywood will rot the floor to frame bolts. All the body to frame bolts on mine looked like the picture below and the floor wasnt rotted.

Cut the fiberglass out carefully between the two benches and install two pieces of plywood to do repair. Then through standard FG repair means, reinstall fiberglass piece you cut out. Cut it close to the edge of the benches but into the horizontal area, and then whatever flooring you install it will cover the patch work.

Visualize how you are going to get the wood in and cut accordingly.

To anyone considering a trillium, its pretty easy to check floor including dinette area for rot. I looked at two that had it. I passed on both and sellers sold them to others shortly after (I highly doubt the sellers disclosed anything, did not disclose to me). One had standing water inside the dinette bench!!
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Old 06-26-2021, 04:12 PM   #8
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After repairing a boat with a similar problem, I drilled holes on 1" centers using pegboard as a template, then soaking the plywood with acetone and allowing it to evaporate ( it takes h2o with it) do this several times. Ventilate heavily and no smoke or sparks! wait about a week then inject epoxy using a syringe into each hole. then replace the hull to frame mounting bolts (use hot dipped galvanized or stainless) Then paint the area with the holes. Before or After repairing fix all leaks using a garden hose outside while inside using a flashlight and mirror and whatever else to find every leak however minor. Done properly you will have a solid and dry camper.
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