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08-12-2011, 11:46 AM
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#1
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Senior Member
Trailer: Trillium 2010
Posts: 5,185
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Trillium(2010) Window Reseal
While trouble shooting a leak, we removed and resealed the rear windows on our Trillium. I took some pictures of the removal of one of the side windows as someone in the future might find it helpful. These are Hehr 8700 series windows. They are installed with a sealed outer flange pulled against the trailer body by screws in a clamping ring on the inside of the trailer. The clamping ring is sized based on the wall thickness. The trailer manufacturer has thickened the wall around the windows with plywood.
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08-12-2011, 11:47 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Trailer: Trillium 2010
Posts: 5,185
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To remove the clamping ring I first had to remove the shade brackets, and some of the screws holding the storage shelf above the windows. (Note: These storage shelves are held in place with drywall screws screwed into the plywood window spacer. Use too long a screw or screw them in too deep and they will go right through the wall of the camper). I also had to drop the light fixture screwed into the bottom of the shelf.
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08-12-2011, 11:49 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Trailer: Trillium 2010
Posts: 5,185
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To remove the clamping ring you first remove all the screws and then gently pry the ring loose. The sealant on the exterior of the window holds it in place.
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08-12-2011, 11:51 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Trailer: Trillium 2010
Posts: 5,185
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To remove the window I used a dull putty knife. I pushed up from the bottom between the window flange and the trailer body and twisted the putty knife in several places. Working my way around the window I was able to pry the window out enough to get my fingers behind the flange and gently pull the window free. As the trailer is less than 2 years old, this was not that difficult.
We used the same putty knife to clean the old sealant off both the trailer and the window flange. What couldn't be removed with the putty knife came off with Goo Gone. Everything then got cleaned with windex.
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08-12-2011, 11:54 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Trailer: Trillium 2010
Posts: 5,185
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When the window is installed oversized holes are drilled in the clamping ring thus allowing the screw to spin freely. The installer then drills (through the clamping ring hole) the correct size hole for the screws in a channel around the inside of the window. As the screw is tightened it threads into the channel hole while spinning freely in the clamping ring hole, thus drawing the two parts together. While Hehr in their service manual says No.6 screws should be used, every one seems to use No. 8 screws. This has a tendency to distort and in some cases break the channel leaving too large a hole for the screw to grip. I found several holes in this condition.
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08-12-2011, 11:56 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Trailer: Trillium 2010
Posts: 5,185
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I found rubber butyl tape at the local building supply store. It is sold to seal sheet metal roofing. As they only sold it in 1/2" width, we doubled it up. We replaced the original screws which were already starting to rust with stainless steel screws which we painted black to match the originals.
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08-12-2011, 11:58 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Trailer: Trillium 2010
Posts: 5,185
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Installing the window takes two people. Once the window is in place one person holds it there while the other installs the clamping ring from inside the trailer. Care should be taken when tightening the screws not to strip the holes. A larger screw is not an option should the channel break.
The putty will ooze out from the sides of the window. We let it sit for several days and then removed the excess with the same dull putty knife. Raz
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08-13-2011, 05:37 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1981 Trillium 5500
Posts: 1,158
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looks good, hope it cures the leak for you
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08-13-2011, 05:53 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1988 16 ft Scamp Deluxe
Posts: 25,710
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Thanks for the write up Raz! This will invaluable for those that don't know how to pull and reseal windows with clamp rings. As an addition, I've pulled and resealed a couple of windows in my Scamp all by myself. After I placed the window in the trailer, I used duct tape to tape it in place (didn't want it to fall out ). That allowed me to go inside and screw the clamp ring in place.
__________________
Donna D.
Ten Forward - 2014 Escape 5.0 TA
Double Yolk - 1988 16' Scamp Deluxe
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08-13-2011, 08:51 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Name: Laurie
Trailer: 13 Trillium
Alberta
Posts: 118
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I'm still getting over the shock that you have to do this, and do it yourself, on a new trailer!? I finally got the gumption to replace the little window over the stove on my "new" 1978 Trillium. Took all day, but I did it. I got great help off this forum but no one mentioned doubling up on the butyl. Did you do it because the channel in your flange is probably deeper than on my old flat aluminum? I sure don't wan't to have to do it again for a while. Hope your repair worked. Mine fixed one leak but now I (hopefully) found the other so more windows in my future. Thank you for taking and sharing your pictures! You have no idea how much it helps us little newbies!
Quote:
Originally Posted by P. Raz
Installing the window takes two people. Once the window is in place one person holds it there while the other installs the clamping ring from inside the trailer. Care should be taken when tightening the screws not to strip the holes. A larger screw is not an option should the channel break.
The putty will ooze out from the sides of the window. We let it sit for several days and then removed the excess with the same dull putty knife. Raz
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08-13-2011, 09:02 AM
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#11
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Member
Trailer: 2010 Trillium 13 ft (California-made)
Posts: 86
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Hi Laurie,
We doubled up on the butyl because what we had was only 1/2" wide and we wanted to make sure that it would ooooooze out the sides. If your's has oooooozed then it's probably just right.
We've had several rains (and a camper wash) with no leaks from the windows or belly band (or anywhere else!).
Raz and I both laughed aloud when you intimated we are NOT newbies ... we've had our Trill since only May '10
Rock on!
Maggie
Quote:
Originally Posted by lhanna
I'm still getting over the shock that you have to do this, and do it yourself, on a new trailer!? I finally got the gumption to replace the little window over the stove on my "new" 1978 Trillium. Took all day, but I did it. I got great help off this forum but no one mentioned doubling up on the butyl. Did you do it because the channel in your flange is probably deeper than on my old flat aluminum? I sure don't wan't to have to do it again for a while. Hope your repair worked. Mine fixed one leak but now I (hopefully) found the other so more windows in my future. Thank you for taking and sharing your pictures! You have no idea how much it helps us little newbies!
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__________________
Backing up is not my specialty. Nope.
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08-13-2011, 09:13 AM
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#12
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Senior Member
Name: Laurie
Trailer: 13 Trillium
Alberta
Posts: 118
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Oh goodness! I had totally forgotten your hubby's name! I didn't realize I was talking to the other "kids" on the forum lol! Mine was also 1/2 " and it oozed so hooray . Just an update, I may not have to go near the fiberglass fix, let you know after I do the front and back window. Not until next week though. We are getting ready to leave tomorrow in the big trailer and of course, it is raining. No leaks in this one thank goodness!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Maggie R.
Hi Laurie,
We doubled up on the butyl because what we had was only 1/2" wide and we wanted to make sure that it would ooooooze out the sides. If your's has oooooozed than it's probably just right.
We've had several rains (and a camper wash) with no leaks from the windows or belly band (or anywhere else!).
Raz and I both laughed aloud when you intimated we are NOT newbies ... we've had our Trill since only May '10
Rock on!
Maggie
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08-13-2011, 03:08 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 1,578
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I never would have thought that plywood would be there. Has anyone ever seen this construction method on other brands before?
Thanks for taking the time to share your write up and post all these photos.
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08-13-2011, 04:43 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Trailer: Trillium 2010
Posts: 5,185
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"I never would have thought that plywood would be there. Has anyone ever seen this construction method on other brands before?"
That's an interesting question. Since the fiberglass is so thin, I just assumed all the manufacturers used the same technique to give the clamping ring or screws something to grab on to. Perhaps folks will share their experience. Raz
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08-13-2011, 10:13 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Trailer: 71 Boler
Posts: 104
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The windows on the Boler are just riveted through the fiberglass, no wood
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08-14-2011, 04:16 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Trailer: 2007 19 ft Escape 5.0 / 2002 GMC (1973 Boler project)
Posts: 4,148
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Hi: P. Raz... It's my understanding that Trillium...the "Original" that is, used plywood on the inside of the fiberglass. This became a big problem if window leaks weren't looked after in a timely manner. Wood doesn't bode well when wet!!!
Boler didn't use anything but pop rivets and butyl putty and trying to put a flat window in a curved wall has its own set of problems!!!
Here's what I found after taking the small vent window out of the kitchen wall of our '77 Boler.
Alf S. North shore of Lake Erie
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08-14-2011, 05:00 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Trailer: Trillium 2010
Posts: 5,185
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alf S.
Hi: P. Raz... It's my understanding that Trillium...the "Original" that is, used plywood on the inside of the fiberglass. This became a big problem if window leaks weren't looked after in a timely manner. Wood doesn't bode well when wet!!!
Boler didn't use anything but pop rivets and butyl putty and trying to put a flat window in a curved wall has its own set of problems!!!
Here's what I found after taking the small vent window out of the kitchen wall of our '77 Boler.
Alf S. North shore of Lake Erie
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Hi Alf. What do they use in your Escape?
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11-30-2011, 12:36 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 1,578
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I was also curious about what they use in Escape if anyone knows?
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