Trillium Door Holder

[Keith Boddy]

I have seen a few Fiberglass 'Eggs' with Door Holders, have any members installed such items? If so any advice? I'd love some before I get the Cordless drill out with my butyl tape and shoot for the best..

[Kevin K]

I would NOT drill any holes in the body. Just use a strong glue.

[Keith Boddy]

I would NOT drill any holes in the body. Just use a strong glue.

What type of glue could hold the door holder in place. I already have quite a number of "holes" in the trailer, the Add a room buttons were installed with screws, also the taillights are screwed through the body etc...
Thoughts?

[Donna D.]

The one on my Scamp is riveted. My only concern about using glue... is how difficult would it be to get the glue to release if you needed to replace one.. or both sides of the door holder due to it breaking, getting bent or rusty? Rivets are easy to replace. Using butyl seals the area.

[Keith Boddy]

The one on my Scamp is riveted. My only concern about using glue... is how difficult would it be to get the glue to release if you needed to replace one.. or both sides of the door holder due to it breaking, getting bent or rusty? Rivets are easy to replace. Using butyl seals the area.

I was going to use self-tapping screws into predrilled smaller pilot holes with butyl.

[Donna D.]

I was going to use self-tapping screws into predrilled smaller pilot holes with butyl.

Keith, fiberglass really doesn't have anything to bite into... unless backed by wood, etc. I think you'd be better off drilling pilot hole and using rivets.

[Alistair Camelford]

Keith, my Trill 1300 has had a stainless steel door holder on it for four years. The receiever is on the lowest part of the door on the "ridge/ accent line"...that being the thickest part of the shell where the top and bottom halves overlap. I used stainless pan head self -tapping screws and slathered on epoxy on the fiberglass. The tongue part of the closer is also on that double shell part and is likewise attached. To stop the tongue from flapping while on the road, I screwed a small rare earth magnet in a steel cup as a retainer. (Lee Valley tools...on the web..."Rare earth magnets")
To date all is secure-even in the gustiest of weather, and after two West Coast, two East Coast, and three Florida trips.
Pre-drill the holes slightly smaller than the self-tappers, you could use double face tape to pre-position the rig, breathe deep...measure twice -drill once...and presto! No more door blowing off its hinges and tearing up the trailer wall.
Alistair

[Booker B.]

I used some peal and stick velcro on door and on the trim. It works until it gets windy as they contact are isn't great. If it is windy I run a bungie cord from the door handle to the rock guard mount. Pretty, No, but I didn't want to drill any more holes =)

[pjanits]

I used some peal and stick velcro on door and on the trim. It works until it gets windy as they contact are isn't great. If it is windy I run a bungie cord from the door handle to the rock guard mount. Pretty, No, but I didn't want to drill any more holes =)

I run a bungie cord from door handle to gas bottle. door stays open until I want it closed.

[Scott S.]

I actually do the same... was thinking about adding a holder thingy but the bungie is just as easy.

[Larry C Hanson]

Hello, Door retainers were installed on both of my Trilium 1300s.
Drilling the holes in the body was the hardest part. I used tape wrapped
around drill bit to keep it from penetrating the ensolite on the interior.
Then I carefully threaded in self tapping pan head sheet metal screws
a short way so as not to penetrate the interior. The screws were then
cut with a hack saw to be just long enough to engage the fiberglass shell
properly. Small butyl tape pieces were used as sealant.

The door holder works fine and has withstood quite gusty wind conditions.
Good Luck, Larry H