Trillium Window Removal - Page 4 - Fiberglass RV
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Old 05-22-2014, 12:38 PM   #61
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Name: Dave W
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See the last picture in this link:
David Tilston's Trailer :: Cantaloupe
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Old 05-22-2014, 01:25 PM   #62
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Ah, so one can be on the roof. If done very carefully I would imagine. Thanks Dave !
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Old 05-22-2014, 02:41 PM   #63
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I told my daughter to park her butt over the rise of the trolley roof. This is as close to a truss as these trailers get.
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Old 05-25-2014, 10:18 PM   #64
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Butly tape is used on the exterior of the fibreglass, but under the flange of the window. You put it on the window before you put the window back on the trailer. It goes on the side of the flange that touches the trailer. As you tighten the screws that hold the window on, some should squish out. Trim that off with a plastic or wood implement, so you don't scratch the fibreglass.

Hey Dave 1977 trilllium 1300 windows cranks will not work. The cranks are new but the hardware will not close the window. Any ideas on how to fix windows?
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Old 05-25-2014, 10:53 PM   #65
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You might try saturating the control mechanism with penetrating oil ( WD40 or the like), let it soak a bit then ease the opener back and forth. Maybe lube the joints of the arms on each pane, depending on what is frozen. Good luck!
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Old 05-25-2014, 11:50 PM   #66
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Agreed..This is a great thread and so much useful info.
I'm almost excited about doing all of our windows as next project.
Thanks for links to fastener source. Stainless in small little packs is crazy $
Time to source the butyl tape - sigh.
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Old 05-26-2014, 11:31 AM   #67
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Originally Posted by agreco View Post
Hey Dave 1977 trilllium 1300 windows cranks will not work. The cranks are new but the hardware will not close the window. Any ideas on how to fix windows?
If the above suggestions don't work, you can buy new gear assemblies. I think Joe Thoen with Trillium / Outback has some.
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Old 06-21-2014, 05:22 PM   #68
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We're planning to remove and replace the wood on our windows on our 1975 Trillium 1300 next month and then replace the worn out seals before reinstalling them. I'm planning to order some parts from Vintage Trailer Supply. I've read thru at least 8 different threads of what folks have done. So far in my cart I have the Jalousie Header & Sill Seal, the Jalousie J-Seal (24'), and the Jalousie Glass Retainer Discs (2 packs). Besides butyl tape and the wood, is there anything else that we'll need? Is that enough of each of those items?
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Old 06-21-2014, 06:57 PM   #69
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Originally Posted by Kelly H View Post
We're planning to remove and replace the wood on our windows on our 1975 Trillium 1300 next month and then replace the worn out seals before reinstalling them. I'm planning to order some parts from Vintage Trailer Supply. I've read thru at least 8 different threads of what folks have done. So far in my cart I have the Jalousie Header & Sill Seal, the Jalousie J-Seal (24'), and the Jalousie Glass Retainer Discs (2 packs). Besides butyl tape and the wood, is there anything else that we'll need? Is that enough of each of those items?
You may want to get same new Stainless Steel screws for reattachment.

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Old 06-21-2014, 07:08 PM   #70
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Suggestion! If you're using stainless steel fasteners anywhere that may touch the aluminum, put a nylon washer at the touch point. Stainless and aluminim don't play well together and you'll eventually end up with "galling," mismatched metals that "freeze."
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Old 06-21-2014, 07:17 PM   #71
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I saw a recommendation for #8 SS screws on eBay. Where do y'all recommend finding the washers? Are they a common item?
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Old 06-22-2014, 06:47 PM   #72
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Just go to a fastener supplier. They will make you buy a pack of 100, but they will charge less then Home depot does for 10.
I go to Calgary Fasteners & Tools Ltd. | (403) 287-5340
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Old 06-22-2014, 08:06 PM   #73
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There are concerns with aluminum and stainless steel being in direct contact with each other. Think of it as a small battery. Aluminum by nature acts as an anode. Stainless steel acts as a cathode. You need an electrolyte solution to get current flowing. In this case rain water could act as the electrolyte. If you live close to the ocean, salt water can act as a very good electrolyte. The current that is generated is what causes the corrosion.

Fortunately, if you have a larger anode (the aluminum window frame) and cathode (the SST screws) the concern is still there, but, is very, very minimally less.

If you were to attach a large SST metal sheet to something outside using aluminum rivets or screws, the rivets or screws would corrode very fast, especially if you lived by the ocean.

The washers would limit the contact area between the frame and the screws and would certainly be a cheap, easy solution for peace of mind. I really don't think it is that much or a concern or necessary.

Just my 2 cents worth

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Old 06-22-2014, 09:42 PM   #74
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We live in DC now but who knows where my husband will be stationed next. Since he's in the Marine Corps, nearly anywhere we'll be sent will be near the ocean (except Twentynine Palms - lol).
I'll look up some local faster places. Thanks for the tips!
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Old 06-23-2014, 01:16 AM   #75
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Cool A couple of thoughts

First off, I found this stuff:

WOOD HARDENER | Rotted Wood Hardener

If one of you would be brave enough to try it, it might solve many problems listed here.

Secondly, as a former sailor, all the hardware on my aluminum mast, boom, etc. was stainless steel. You may want to talk to someone knowledgeable about boats to find out if certain types of SS go with certain types of AL.
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Old 06-29-2014, 11:34 PM   #76
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any agreement on 1 or 3/4" screws #8

Any thoughts about 1" screws as suggested by Rod? I suppose if they are going thru the window frame, fibreglass and into 3/4 plywood 1" length does make sense. I don't have mine apart yet to have a better look, just took off the rockguard and see the window has to come out, well they all likely do but anyways...Going to order some bags of screws tomorrow am. Glad to re-read this thread ....diving in on our front window.
Thanks, John
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Old 06-30-2014, 11:53 PM   #77
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Popped front window out this am, couple quick measurements and ordered a bag of 200, #8 1" stainless screws from west coast fasteners. Similar to others' experiences the plywood looks ok but definitely moist. It baked in the hot sun and wind today and I will probably reuse it maybe the odd toothpick will be needed.

I also picked up some butyl tape but it is only 3/8 wide ....that is all they had. What width did u use? I was hoping for 1" because that is the width of the window flange. Definitely a few questions about where on the window frame flange to put the tape.....above screw holes, below screw holes or both? And double layer? Do the screws just poke right through the tape? I don't know about this stuff....I'm tempted to also squirt a bead of windshield urethane. I have a lot of spider cracks too in the fibreglass from what looks to be overtorquing the screws. Honestly, I'm not impressed how these windows were anchored ...Pretty cheesy / flimsy setup,especially the bottom edge that sucks the top of the gaucho together to the window and some big gaps to fill. Will snap a pic tomorrow.
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Old 09-05-2016, 07:25 PM   #78
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Trailer: 1972 boler American and 1979 Trillium 4500
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Hey Dave 1977 trilllium 1300 windows cranks will not work. The cranks are new but the hardware will not close the window. Any ideas on how to fix windows?
I've got one window out now and started cleaning it up. I have a new crank on order. What I did notice on the old one is that it has a limited range of motion. That is it only goes so far in either direction. This thread on the samba shows some pictures of the gears inside. TheSamba.com :: Bay Window Bus - View topic - Jalousie pop rivet replacement

I'm thinking that you are going to have to take things apart, turn the crank then reassemble, you should be good to go.
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