Trillium Window Up-Grade info Needed

[Josh Henderson]

Hi Everyone,

Looking for some input on my idea of upgrading my original crank out windows in my 77" 13' Trillium for something more modern.... any info on where to purchase, maybe picts of it done already, or maybe some input like DONT do it & leave it like it is.

Any help/feedback is appriciated. Thanks Joshua In So.Cal

[Al V]

If the windows are in good shape i would leave them in. The jalousie windows are nice you can leave them cracked open in a rain. Have some air circultion on a warm rainy day makes being inside much more comfortable

[Donna R]

Hi
My feelings are STRONG!
The best thing about the old Trilliums are the crank windows on all 4 sides.
They allow good air circulation even in very warm weather and open windows with no wet seats while it's raining. If they are in good condition.....leave them.

Even the night we spent in Death Valley was bearable inside while others were outside their rigs most of the night due to the heat.

The only downside of these windows is the nasty habit I have of walking into an open one once in a while when I'm not paying attention.
A friend has told me they use a swimming "noodle" as a protective edge. Seems like a great idea that I will try.
The new Trilliums have only 2 sliding windows and are not nearly as good for storage and air flow in my humble opinion.
I think they got it right back in the 70's
Donna

[Brian B-P]

.. the nasty habit I have of walking into an open one once in a while when I'm not paying attention...

I've done this twice, which was more than enough to discourage me from using the one window of this type (in the kitchen) in my Boler. Since then, to take advantage of the ability to get ventilation without letting in rain, I have compromised by only opening this window a small amount. I know that I would forget to put a foam bumper on the edge, so I haven't even tried this approach.

[Donna D.]

any info on where to purchase,

Windows are expensive. You may end up spending more on replacement windows than you paid for the trailer. I just purchased ONE back sliding window for my Scamp. The price, $147.00 + 35.00 crating charge. There's always eBay, but you might not match all the windows?

In the U.S. Hehr windows may be the largest supplier of RV windows and in Canada...Sunview.

From the Helpful-Links: Windows and Window Parts

[Andrew Gibbens]

Just a thought: your Trillium appears to have windows with square (sharp) corners. Most new windows have radiused corners, so you will either have to locate someone who still makes square corner windows (of the list Donna linked to, only Interstate says they do) or you will have to build out the body at the corners of the existing holes to fit the radius corners of the new windows, and that's no small task.

Andrew

[Joe MacDonald]

I'm on our second trillium, and after a few bangs it becomes instinct to bend when working around the windows. I don't think they can be beat, they are far superior to the sliders for promoting air flow as well.

even if they need to be re-sealed and the wood inserts on the inside of the trailer replaced, it won't take more than 1 day per window.

[Lanny Milton]

I removed and replaced all the wood on my windows, polishised the aluminum with a good metal cleaner, resealed and replaced using stainless screws. They'll be there longer than the original factory installation. The new windows look nice because they're tinted, but the reason the crank-outs are no longer used is because they are much more expensive to build. I'm another who would stick with what you have, based on the info you've given.

[Josh Henderson]

Thanks to all for the info they left on my question....

I'm keeping the windows & am going to restore them. In a previous reply by Lanny Milton he said that he replaced the wood around the windows.... Anyone know the length width & thickness they should be? I need to replace 1 side wood piece for the front window... Thanks again for all of your info.

Josh In So.Cal

[Lanny Milton]

Over the years, small amounts of moisture seep through the screw holes, rusting the threads to nothing, and eventually rotting the wood. On the '77 and probably many other years, this is plywood. Removal of a few screws will reveal if this is a problem on yours. There are sixteen total pieces (4/window). All but two pieces in mine were rotten to the point of delamenation. When you remove the windows, you can carefully peel back the insolite (I believe that is the correct term for the interior lining) to exposed the wood. Just take a measurment of each to cut new ones. You will need a table saw to cut the bevel for one edge of each piece. I replaced some of mine with treated lumber, the rest with some lumber-core plywood that I had laying around. As I mentioned before, I reattached with stainless screws. No more rust. I'm not sure what the "tape" sealant is called, but you can get it in various width and thickness rolls at most RV parts supply outlets.

[Alistair Camelford]

I've done the re&re on all four windows on the "Toad"...new wood, new butyl sealant, and have still had a few minor leaks. Source...seems (no pun intended) that on the rear window water from the roof was tracking down the vertical strip of aluminum frame and seeping along the stainless screws into the wood and then inside. I solved this by putting a dab of sealant over each cap head screw. No more leaks there! This summer in Maine during the mother of all thunderstorms I had left the front gravel guard up at the max elevation...next morning a small leak from the top corner. My guess...the weight of the accumulated rain on the guard (yeah, I usually cant it to one side! forgot!)pulled the window frame away from the FG body. I resealed the top and sides (Storm King clear sealant good but stinky)and no more water. I've since covered each SS screw with that stuff on all windows.
Alistair

[Josh Henderson]

Well I guess its my turn to do it since everyone else has... Im going to try it next weekend, I am also looking for a trillium gravel guard for the rear of the trailer(it had one on the rear for shade but previous owner took it) anyone know of one for sale?

Thanks Again for all your help & Info, Josh In So.Cal

[brendadave]

Removal of a few screws will reveal if this is a problem on yours. There are sixteen total pieces (4/window). All but two pieces in mine were rotten to the point of delamenation. When you remove the windows, you can carefully peel back the insolite (I believe that is the correct term for the interior lining) to exposed the wood. Just take a measurment of each to cut new ones. You will need a table saw to cut the bevel for one edge of each piece.

This is for anyone who has removed or replaced the wood frame around the window in their Trillium.

Did anyone measure the thickness of the plywood frame?

I would like to have the wood already bought before I remove my front window. I don't want to pull out my front window, then have to leave it sitting in the driveway while I take a trip to the lumber yard. I know my wood is completely rotten because I can pull my ensolite back and the plywood is like like soggy corn flakes.

Thanks for you help.

[theresa p]

Well I guess its my turn to do it since everyone else has... Im going to try it next weekend, I am also looking for a trillium gravel guard for the rear of the trailer(it had one on the rear for shade but previous owner took it) anyone know of one for sale?

Thanks Again for all your help & Info, Josh In So.Cal

josh---we own one of the new trilliums with the sliding windows..and are soooooo wishing it had the louvred ones. even in the lightest rain we need to close them. what a pain!! we checked into getting the old style--jalousie--or louvred--and they don't put them in anymore due to the inaccessability of getting the parts, according to the lady at trillium. we also checked into purchasing the window maxx, which is a plastic louvre add-on that covers only about 6-7 inches, i am guessing, of the window. they're feasible, but not exactly cheap. i have been playing with making my own awnings but all in all, stay with your louvres and count your blessings that you have them!!!

[Doug Mager]

Theresa, I just may have some help for your (and others with slider windows) wet concerns.

By now I'm sure almost all of us have seen these (sometime tinted, sometime painted) automotive side window rain/window shades.... Well these would help your situation as well, you'll need to take the window width measurements of your trailer windows and go to an auto parts store (even Canadian Tire) and find the size and shape that conforms to your window openings. These items stick on with (enclosed) double sided tape and it does provide a good (almost always) water tight seal. The only concern is that they are sold also with shades for the front windows (of most vehicles) and their shape will probably render these parts useless at least to you. The parts you'd need are the shades used mainly for the rear windows of cars. It might be a little spendy, but consider, you MAY be able to keep your windows open in most rains (maybe NOT wide open, but enough to let fresh air in or stale air out.