Trouble getting wire through Rat Fur for Fantastic Vent install

[Markz]

OK -

I have recently begun working on installing a fantastic vent in my Boler.

I am having a tough time getting the power wires through the rat fur from the vent opening to the top of the cabinets.

I am trying to figure out how to get the power wires through the headliner without ripping it or pealing back too much.

I believe the roof curve posses a particular challenge.

Any advice from someone who has done it?

Thank you.

[floyd]

Originally Posted by Markz

OK -

I have recently begun working on installing a fantastic vent in my Boler.

I am having a tough time getting the power wires through the rat fur from the vent opening to the top of the cabinets.

I am trying to figure out how to get the power wires through the headliner without ripping it or pealing back too much.

I believe the roof curve posses a particular challenge.

Any advice from someone who has done it?

Thank you.

Find a piece of #9 wire, sharpen one end, make a small 180 degree bend in the other. Crimp that end to form an eye like in a needle. You can then fish the wire under the reflextix quite easily.
Or you can fish a string through and use the string to pull the wire...the result will be a clean invisible install.
You may need to loosen a small section of the ratfur strip at the ceiling transition point and work backwards from inside the cabinet to meet up, but is really isn't as big a challenge as it sounds.
Suggest using a section of #14 lamp cord, since it is very compliant and easy to attach to the "needle".

[Markz]

Thank you for your advice.
My boler did not come with reflextix. The Rat Fur is glued directly to the fiberglass. I find myself slowly making progress pushing a coat hanger through but am open to any suggestion. Thank you.

[floyd]

Originally Posted by Markz

Thank you for your advice.
My boler did not come with reflextix. The Rat Fur is glued directly to the fiberglass. I find myself slowly making progress pushing a coat hanger through but am open to any suggestion. Thank you.

Since you are basically trying to scrape the glue to make a path... Try taking your coat hanger over to the vice and beating the end of it flat with a smooth faced hammer back about an inch, then file the end to form a tiny "scraper" leaving the "blade" to about a half inch. keep the end bent just a little toward the shell as you work it.

[stevebaz]

Use a hair dryer to heat up the fabric and you push through. That may help some. Myself I used the heavy wire used in chain link fences. After about 3 feet even that wasn't stiff enough and you start to loose control.

[floyd]

Originally Posted by stevebaz

Use a hair dryer to heat up the fabric and you push through. That may help some. Myself I used the heavy wire used in chain link fences. After about 3 feet even that wasn't stiff enough and you start to loose control.

Agree, I use a stainless steel #9 wire which is ideal for the purpose but hard to source.

[Casita Greg]

When I installed a "third taillight" over the top of the middle of the rear window, I had to pull wires from the rear overhead cabinet down inside the "rat-fur" carpeting to the bottom of the back trailer wall in order to tie into the lighting wires running under the rear toe-board/cabinetry area. I used an electrical snake, and yes, it was still a hell of a fight getting it worked down behind the glued on rat-fur, but I finally won that battle, and after a lot of exertion, I was able to tie in my new wires and pull them through with the snake. An electrical snake is a lot stiffer than just trying to snake a regular wire or coat hangar in between the hull and the fur. Since the snake is flat spring steel, it not only allows it to conform to the inside curvature but will keep it relatively straight in line with the direction you want to go. At least, it worked for me. Good luck with your project.

[Jack L]

Originally Posted by Casita Greg

When I installed a "third taillight" over the top of the middle of the rear window, I had to pull wires from the rear overhead cabinet down inside the "rat-fur" carpeting to the bottom of the back trailer wall in order to tie into the lighting wires running under the rear toe-board/cabinetry area. I used an electrical snake, and yes, it was still a hell of a fight getting it worked down behind the glued on rat-fur, but I finally won that battle, and after a lot of exertion, I was able to tie in my new wires and pull them through with the snake. An electrical snake is a lot stiffer than just trying to snake a regular wire or coat hangar in between the hull and the fur. Since the snake is flat spring steel, it not only allows it to conform to the inside curvature but will keep it relatively straight in line with the direction you want to go. At least, it worked for me. Good luck with your project.

In the electrical trade, the item that Greg refers to as an "electrical snake" is called a fish tape. You can get one at a big box home center in 50 or 100 foot lengths in a plastic reel type case. You only need a few feet so if you know an electrician, they probably have some small pieces of it and would give you one. They come in 1/8 and 1/4th inch width. As Greg mentioned they would be a good choice to get the job done. There is also a small (maybe 3/16'' dia) plastic rod that is sold for the electrical trade or fishing wires. One brand is Greenlee Fish Sticks and is sold as a kit but the kit is more than you need and kind if spendy. Again, you can get this at a big box home center in the electrical department or from an electrical wholesale supply

[Markz]

Great ideas, thank you.

Another question: regluing

After you all fished the wires through did you try to reglue any of the rat fur you loosened up? If so any tips? I was thinking of coating the wires with glue or trying something else to get the glue in there.

[stevebaz]

In some areas where I had to rebond the seaming a hot melt glue gun poked through the fabric worked well.

[Casita Greg]

It's doubtful that you would need to do any re-gluing if you use a "fish tape to pull in the wires themselves, because the wires would fill the void area. You shouldn't even notice it once the wires are run behind the carpeting.

[Markz]

It worked!
I used an electricians snake to cut through the rat fur but had to make a small incision in the carpet to pull it through. The incision was closed back up with gorilla glue. It looks great and barely noticeable that wires were run through.

Now onto the fan install.

Thank you all!