Trying to re-seal windows - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 05-26-2016, 05:03 AM   #21
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Jack, this is what I'm thinking so I'm pulling it apart again to dry fit and see where the issue is. I like the idea of a luan spacer if I can get them back together; thanx Eddie. It did rain last night but I should get a chance to work on this today and thoroughly troubleshoot the issues. I appreciate the advice and thank everyone for helping.

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Originally Posted by Jack L View Post
If the parts worked before, they should work now without any modifications. The outside flange and the inside flange should go together with some moderate tightening of the screws. If they aren't, the only thing I can think of would be that the two flanges are binding instead of one sliding into the other.
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Old 05-26-2016, 06:41 AM   #22
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When the window was orig. installed it was clamped against new ratfur and new refletix with full air bubbles taking up at least 3/8" of space. Over the years the inside material compress to next to nothing. Are you using the black butyl window tape it is a little wider and seems a little thicker. Also like stated earlier make sure the window is centered in the hole. I just resealed a bath window and the hole was quite a bit larger than the window not allowing a very large sealing area unless the window was centered in the hole.
On the in the oval hinged bath windows I have also seen the window opening seals come unglued and if that seal is bad the window will leak over the inner lip.
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Old 05-26-2016, 08:07 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eddie Longest View Post
When the window was orig. installed it was clamped against new ratfur and new refletix with full air bubbles taking up at least 3/8" of space. Over the years the inside material compress to next to nothing. Are you using the black butyl window tape it is a little wider and seems a little thicker. Also like stated earlier make sure the window is centered in the hole. I just resealed a bath window and the hole was quite a bit larger than the window not allowing a very large sealing area unless the window was centered in the hole.
On the in the oval hinged bath windows I have also seen the window opening seals come unglued and if that seal is bad the window will leak over the inner lip.
Eddie
If the OP has a side bath model of the same age range as mine was it may not have rat fur around the bathroom window but instead a sheet of laminate type material on that wall. If the window has leaked at all the laminate may have come loose from the wall around the window & it can/will creating some resistance to getting the window back in.
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Old 05-26-2016, 10:51 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eddie Longest View Post
When the window was orig. installed it was clamped against new ratfur and new refletix with full air bubbles taking up at least 3/8" of space. Over the years the inside material compress to next to nothing. Are you using the black butyl window tape it is a little wider and seems a little thicker. Also like stated earlier make sure the window is centered in the hole. I just resealed a bath window and the hole was quite a bit larger than the window not allowing a very large sealing area unless the window was centered in the hole.
On the in the oval hinged bath windows I have also seen the window opening seals come unglued and if that seal is bad the window will leak over the inner lip.
Eddie
That does make sense, and if that is the problem, a layer of foam weather striping on the INSIDE flange to compensate for the material that was crushed might solve the problem.
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Old 05-27-2016, 06:03 PM   #25
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We pulled the window for a third time and put the two halves together without butyl outside the camper. The space is almost 3/8" and no way will that ever seal without "assistance." I am including a picture of the window and ring so you can see the issue.

I could double or triple the butyl but I've decided to cut a spacer from 1/4" plywood (sealed with poly stain) and place the spacer inside the camper, between the window ring and the wall. This will allow us to use a single layer of butyl and 3/4" stainless screws to pull the assembly together tightly.

Since the spacer is on the inside of the window, we won't have to worry about getting wet from the weather. However, it may get wet if we ever re-install the shower. We've already cut the spacer from an old piece of plywood and completed the first coat of onyx stain.
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Old 05-27-2016, 08:26 PM   #26
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I have a system I use for applying putty tape. When the roll is fresh and the weather is warm it is darned sticky stuff, nice and soft but a nuisance to put in place. So I keep my roll in the refrigerator. Then I take it out of the fridge and apply it and pull the paper tape while it is still relatively cold. Then before I place the object I am installing onto the taped surface I warm up the butyl tape with a hair dryer making it very soft and easy to compress.

It sounds like extra labor but in the long run it goes faster for me and I get an excellent seal with no voids.

Your spacer looks like it will work for you. Another choice of spacer would be EVA closed cell foam. Buy the firm type rather than the softer version. It will tell you on the package if it is soft or firm. It is adhesive backed and comes in various thickness. You can find it sold in rolls where weather stripping is sold. Because it does compress a small amount that will allow for surface irregularities.
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Old 05-28-2016, 04:46 AM   #27
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Bill,
It looks like the trim ring "leg" is too long for the thickness of your trailer wall. This assumes the trim ring is "L" shaped extrusion. If you wanted to eliminate the spacer would it be possible to modify the leg on the ring? Maybe use a belt sander? You would then need shorter screws to match.
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Old 05-28-2016, 06:56 AM   #28
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Looks like the weld has broken on the clamp ring. Perhaps when you're cinching the ring down, the gap increases even further. All the clamp rings on the windows in my Scamp are "solid" with no gaps. I'd get that fixed before continuing to attempt getting a waterproof seal. YMMV
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Old 05-29-2016, 08:32 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheWanderers View Post
We pulled the window for a third time and put the two halves together without butyl outside the camper. The space is almost 3/8" and no way will that ever seal without "assistance." I am including a picture of the window and ring so you can see the issue.

<cut>

However, it may get wet if we ever re-install the shower.
So when you removed the shower did you also removed the laminate that was on the window wall for of the bathroom? Resulting in a thinner wall for the window to be mounted into?
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Old 05-30-2016, 03:35 AM   #30
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The clamp ring on my windows also had a gap. Might be normal??
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Old 05-31-2016, 07:09 AM   #31
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Carol, we didn't remove the shower and there was nothing but ensolite and fiberglass in the wall of the shower. I'll be replacing the shower window with the new spacer this evening and I expect that it'll pull right up to a good seal now.

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So when you removed the shower did you also removed the laminate that was on the window wall for of the bathroom? Resulting in a thinner wall for the window to be mounted into?
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Old 05-31-2016, 06:33 PM   #32
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Sealed that mofo right UP!

I used the concept of a spacer and used 1/4" plywood that Laura sealed with Minwax Stain. I reduced the width of the butyl tape to 1/2" wide and only one thickness.

That bad boy pulled down smooth and easy. I trimmed the butyl off the ring from the outside before I snugged the screws up a second time and I'm planning on a final adjustment tomorrow, to apply a light twist to ensure that they're all snug after sitting in the direct sunlight.

Here's a picture of the butyl oozing out after the first trim. I am extremely confident that this window is now sealed! Thanks for the great advice to all here who helped to solve this issue.

Freakin' Awesome Dudes!
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Old 06-03-2016, 08:56 AM   #33
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Taking my window out hope to use the original tape to put them back, interesting read
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Old 06-03-2016, 09:12 AM   #34
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Taking my window out hope to use the original tape to put them back, interesting read
I just installed a new roof fan. No way could I reuse the old butyl tape. The stuff was like chewing gum, half stuck to the old fan and the rest stuck to the trailer. New butyl can be found at any RV store. Here the local lumber yard sells it for sealing channel drain metal roof sheets. Good luck, Raz
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Old 06-03-2016, 10:13 AM   #35
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Yikes! I'm about to put in all four of my jalousie windows on the Boler. I'm kind of scared after reading this thread: I don't have time to start over again...

Question: I'll be using rivets. How would that change the tactic I need to use?

Thanks!
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Old 06-07-2016, 08:57 AM   #36
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Uncle: I wouldn't use rivets because I don't think you can control the "pull" to insure that the window will seal correctly. I've remounted my windows using new butyl tape and screwed them down successfully. Then returned the next day and turned the screws another quarter turn after the butyl has had a chance to warm up from the ambient temperature of a full day.

I have reinstalled the rivets in several places and don't like the results because then don't install consistently. The expanding part of the rivet has a mind of it's own and I don't feel that you can rely on when/how they tighten down. I used stainless screws and stainless nylock nuts on the roof vent as well as butyl to seal and that went very well. I'm considering using that same combination on other parts of the cabinetry whenever required because I can be sure that they are pulling all parts together.
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Old 06-07-2016, 08:59 AM   #37
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Quote:
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Taking my window out hope to use the original tape to put them back, interesting read
I wouldn't dream of using the old butyl tape and expect to have an effective seal. I don't think I could get it enough material out of the old seal to use to create a new seal. Plus, the price of this stuff is so cheap that it's a no brainer to replace it and get an effective seal.
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Old 06-07-2016, 09:10 AM   #38
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Bill,

It a done deal now...with rivets. I understand your tactic. I guess you'll be able to hide the screws with that sliding thing on the outside. How about on the inside?

I read on this forum that screws might be a bad call for cabinets and such because they won't give. Those people's opinion is that it's better for a rivet to give than for your cabinet to give. Makes sense to me. But screws are appealing, I understand your point.
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Old 06-07-2016, 09:23 AM   #39
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I was advised to rivet in my windows in a cross pattern, such as one might use for tightening the lug nuts on a wheel. One center left, then one center right, top right corner, followed by lower left corner etc. all the way around.


I also only pulled the rivets snug to allow the butyl tape to squeeze down, then later went around and put another single pull on the rivets. Let it settle some more during the heat of the day, then came back and pulled another single pull. Eventually the rivets started to "pop" and I went around doing them all.


The frames may be a less than perfect match for the wall curve, doing the rivets a little at a time allowed me to tighten more where it seemed to need it, and allowed the butyl tape time to get squeezed out so the window frame would fit tighter against the wall.


YMMV but that seems to have worked for me.
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Old 06-07-2016, 09:42 AM   #40
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Roger,

Sounds like a great idea that considers the properties of both the rivets and of the butyl tape! I did use the cross pattern with the rivets, but did not do the squeeze-and-wait approach. Even though I'm pretty good at taking off rivets, I'm not about to pull the windows back out: that butyl tape is REEEEEEEALLY sticky...
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